^rysvit^ii^.i^r)«virj«flty«<irrstir)«viri«rir)«^ 


<: 


THE 


HORSE  TRAINERS 
HANDBOOK 


HEALTH  and  MANAGEMENT 
OF  THE  HORSE 


PRICE:  $5.00  EACH 


mm^'mii:mmiim'mmi'.iS^mimi^m'mmi'M?>. 


mmmumissumis^sis^ 


. . .  INDEX  . . . 

PAGE 

Early  History  and  Habits  of  the  Horse — 9 

Dentition   of    the    Adult    Horse 14 

The  True  Way  of  Breaking  Horses 17 

How  to   Feed,   Water   and   Drive 18 

Special  Advice  in  Reference  to  Feeding  Horses 19 

Horse   Feed   Mixture 19 

How  to  Get  a  Colt  From  Pasture 19 

How  to   Stable  a  Colt 20 

Objects  of  Fear — How  to  Prevent  Fear 21 

The  Kind  of  Halter  to  be  Used,  and  How  to 

Put  It  on  the  Colt 22 

To  Break  a  Horse  to  Harness 22 

To  Break  Horses  to  Stand  the  Fire  of  a  Gun 23 

Necessity  of  Repetition  of  Lessons  and  a  Thorough  Training..23 

How  to  Proceed  with  the  Colt  after  Haltering 24 

Do  not  Try  to  Force  the  Colt  if  Excited 25 

How  to  Proceed  if  a  Colt  is  Stubborn 25 

To  Make  a  Colt  Follow  Under  the  Whip 26 

How  to  Make  a  Horse  Stand  Still  Without  Hitching 27 

How  to  Lead  a  Colt  with  a  Broke  Horse 27 

The  Eureka  Bridle 29 

How  to  Make  the  Eureka  Bridle 29 

How  to  Lead  a  Colt  into  a  Stable 28 

How  to  Break  Horses  to  Ride „ 30 

How  to  Teach  a  Horse  to   Pace 31 

Management  of  Wild  Horses 31 

The  Kind  of  Bit  to  Use  and  How  to  Use  It 33 

How  to  Make  a  Bitting  Bridle  for  an  Unruly  Horse 34 

How  to  Saddle  a  Colt 34 

How   to    Mount   a   Colt _ 35 

How  to  Ride  a  Colt 36 

Foot  Strap,  and  How  to  Use  It 37 

How  to  Prevent  a  Horse  Running  Away 38 

How  to  Make  a  Horse  Lie  Down „ 38 

Kicking    in    Stall 39 

How  to  Tame  a  Horse  with  Vicious  Habits 39 

How  to   Cure   Bad   Kickers 41 

How  to  Hitch  a  Horse  to  a  Sulky 41 

To    Train    Horses    for   the    Chaise 42 

To  Train  a  Horse  to  Stand „ 43 

Halter  Pulling 43 

How  to  Manage  Balky  Horses 44 

Advice  to   Those  Who  Hire  Horses 46 


INDEX 

PAGE 

On  Choking  as  a  Means  of  Subduing  a  Horse 47 

To  Make  Horses  Perfectly  Safe  for  Family  Use 48 

On  the  Rearing  of  Colts - 48 

On  the  Training  of  Horses  for  Trotting 49 

On  Horse  Blinds,  or  Blinkers 49 

Rules  to  be  Observed  in  the  Purchase  of  a  Horse .•. 50 

How  to  Tell  a  Horse's  Age  by  His  Teeth 52 

Weights  to  be  Carried  in  Trotting 53 

Race  Distances  53 

To  Put  Horses  in  Good  Condition 53 

To  Keep  Horses  Free  from  Disease 54 

How  to   Shoe  a  Horse 54 

The  Shoe  - 57 

Interfering  Shoes  58 

The  Foot  and  Its  Diseases - 58 

The  Frog  59 

The    Sole   59 

The  Coffin  Bone  59 

Contracted  Feet  61 

Thrush    61 

Grease   62 

Cure  for  Grape  Legs 63 

Founders,  How  Caused,  Etc 63 

The  Navicular  Bone — 64 

Quarter   Crack   64 

Heaves — Reasons  Why  It  is  Not  in  the  Lungs 65 

Lung  Fever  65 

Adhesive    Plasters   „ 67 

Physicing    _ 68 

Poultices  69 

Wind  Galls  69 

The  Action  of  the  Kidneys  on  the  Blood 69 

Antimony    „ 70 

Sweeny    71 

Hide  Bound  71 

Cough 72 

For  Restoring  Hair  to  Galled  Spots  on  Horses 72 

For    Spavin   72 

Preparation   for   Blood   Spavin 73 

Cure  for  Heaves _ 73 

Anti-Spasmodics  73 

Anti-Spasmodic  Tincture  for  Man  or   Horse 73 

Worms    in    the    Horse— How    Treated 73 

Anodynes    74 

Farcy — Its  Treatment  74 

Pleurisy — How  to  be  Treated 74 

Staggers    75 


INDEX 

PAGE 

Warbles,  Sitfasts  and  Saddle  Galls 75 

For  Inflammation  of  the  Lungs  in  a  Horse - 76 

For  Colic  in  Horses ^...76 

Stoppage  of  Water. „ „ 76 

Colic  or  Cholera  in  Mules 77 

Colts  Brought  Up  by  Hand 77 

Vegetable    Caustic 78 

To  Cure  Warts 78 

Hoof    Medicine 78 

To  Restore  the  Appetite „ 78 

Stoppage  of  the  Bowels 78 

Salve  for  Man  or  Beast 79 

To  Soften  the  Feet 79 

Stifle  _ 79 

Tonics  79 

Mercurial  Ointment 79 

Spavin  nad  Ringbone 79 

Receipt  _ 80 

To  Clean  and  Oil  Harness _.81 

Strength  of  Food  for  Horses 81 

To  Cure  Cribbing 82 

To  Prevent  Horses  Jumping 82 

Bots  or  Grubs 82 

Quinsy „ 83 

Distemper    „.83 

Scours  85 

Blind    Staggers 85 

Weakness  Across  the  Loins ^ 85 

Stocked  or  Swollen  Legs 86 

To  Cure  Distemper 86 

Remedy  for  Bots _..86 

Inflamed  Swellings  or  Lame  Shoulder - 86 

To  Cure  Heaves 86 

Physic   Ball 86 

Diuretic   Drops 87 

Colic   87 

Fistula  and  Polevil - 87 

Farmers  and  Stock  Owners'  Department 88 

Cruelty  to  Horses „ 90 

Rarey's   Liniment 90 

Rarey's  Wizard  Oil 90 

Rarey's  Directions  for  Shoeing  Horses 90 

To  Prevent  Horses  Kicking  in  the  Stall 93 

To  Cure  Broken  Legs 93 

Lampas  .- 93 

Gravel  ^ '. 93 

Halter  Puling „ 93 


INDEX 

PAOB 

Hide  Bound --93 

To  Prevent  Horses  from  Jumping 93 

Big   Leg 94 

Sore  Breasts - 94 

The  Check  Rein  on  Horses 94 

Feeding  Horses  on  the  Road 94 

Itch  ^ ^ 95 

Urine  Stoppage 95 

To  Cure  Balky  Horses 95 

Dr.  Cole's  King  of  Oils 95 

Mexican  Mustang  Liniment 95 

Sloan's  Horse  Ointment 95 

Merchant's   Gargling  Oil ~ 95 

Arabian  Condition  Powders ~ 95 

Blistering  Liniment 96 

Medicated  Food  for  Horses  and  Cattle 96 

Lotion  for  Mange — 96 

Hoof-Bound  Wash 96 

To  Toughen  Hoofs -96 

Scratches    .- 96 

Cough  ^ ~ 96 

Split  or  Broken  Hoof 97 

Colic  Cure 97 

To  Cure  Distemper -97 

Founder  Cured  in  Twenty-Four  Hours 97 

Cure  for  Staggers 97 

Ring-Bone  and  Spavin  Cure - 97 

Cure  for  Bone  Spavins ~ 97 

Another  Very  Valuable  Recipe  for  Ring-Bone 98 

Splint  and  Spavin  Liniment 98 

Poll  Evil  and  Fistula 98 

To  Tame  Horses _ - 98 

Best  Remedy  for  Heaves — - ~ 98 


THE  HORSE 


EARLY  HISTORY  AND  HABITS   OF  THE   HORSE 

THE  early  history  and  origin  of  the  horse  is  wrapped  in 
■  obscurity  and  fable,  and  we  really  know  little  or  nothing 
of  it,  except  that  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  he  first  came 
from  Asia,  like  man,  and,  according  to  the  Mosaic  account,  all 
other  animals  now  existing;  and  that  he  was  used  in  Egypt 
more  than  1600  years  before  Christ.  But  with  the  history  of 
the  horse  I  shall  not  encumber  this  book,  which  might  be 
enlarged  to  an  enormous  extent  if  this  department  were  entered 
into  at  length.  Sufftce  it,  then,  to  discuss  the  present  condition 
of  the  horse,  and  its  more  recent  origin,  as  now  existing  in 
this  country,  in  addition  to  his  general  habits. 

The  habits  of  the  horse  in  all  countries,  and  of  all  varieties, 
are  pretty  much  alike.  Wherever  he  is  at  large,  he  is  bold 
but  wary,  and  easily  taking  note  of  the  approach  of  man  to 
give  him  as  wide  a  birth  as  he  possibly  can,  or  rather  show  him 
a  clean  pair  of  heels.  Wild  horses  exist  to  the  present  day  in 
the  interior  of  Asia  and  in  South  America.  But  both  the 
horses  of  the  Tartars  and  those  of  La  Plata  are  dsecended 
from  domesticated  animals,  and  can  scarcely  be  called  wild 
in  the  ordinary  acceptation  of  the  term.  Indeed,  the  Califor- 
nian  horses,  which  are  still  more  recently  bred  in  a  wild  state 
from  Spanish  horses,  are  quite  as  wild  as  those  described  by 
Sir  F.  B.  Head.  From  their  constant  state  of  liberty,  and 
their  roving  habits,  in  order  to  obtain  food  and  water,  they 
are  inured  to  fatigue,  and  can  bear  an  enormous  amount 
of  long-continued  fast  work  without  failing  under  it,  and  with- 


10  THE  HORSE 

out  that  training  which  the  domesticated  animal  must  have. 
The  walk  and  the  gallop  are  the  horse's  natural  paces,  and  all 
Others  are  acquired;  but  nothing  can  excell  the  fiery  anima- 
tion and  elegance  of  movement  of  the  free  horse,  and  in  these 
two  paces  art  has  done  nothing  to  improve  his  form  except 
perhaps  in  slightly  increasing  the  speed  of  the  latter.  In  all 
countries  and  in  every  age  the  horse  feeds  upon  grain  or  grass, 
though  it  is  said  that  in  Arabia  he  is  occasionally  supported 
upon  camel's  milk  when  food  such  as  he  usually  lives  upon  is 
not  to  be  had. 

It  may  be  useful  to  specify  the  terms  employed  to  describe 
the  principal  parts  of  the  horse.  These  details  will  not  prove 
altogether  superfluous,  as  some  of  the  words  we  are  about  to 
explain  not  unfrequently  occur  in  conversation. 

The  two  parts  of  the  head  of  the  horse  which  correspond  to 
the  temples  in  a  man,  are  above  the  eyes.  The  eyes  them- 
selves have  a  loose  crescentiform  fold  of  the  conjunctiva  at  the 
inner  angle,  often  erroneously  called  membrana  nietitans,  but  it 
neither  performs  its  office  or  possesses  its  muscular  apparatus. 
The  orbit,  which  is  formed  of  seven  bones,  four  cranial  and 
three  facial,  contains  the  globe  of  the  eye,  on  the  inner  angle 
of  which  is  situated  the  haw  (a).  The  figure  attached  will  per- 
fectly supply  the  means  of  verifying  all  these  indications.  The 
eye-pits  (b)  a'-e  deep  indentations  which  lie  between  the  eyes 
and  the  ear,  above  the  eyebrows  on  each  side.* 

The  jace  (c)  is  the  front  of  the  head  from  the  eyes  to  the 
nostrils;  this  part  corresponds  to  the  upper  part  of  a  man's 
nose.  This  name  is,  however,  generally  applied  to  that  por- 
tion that  surrounds  the  curl  or  centre  on  the  forehead  from 
whence  the  hair  radiates. 

The  neck  of  the  horse  is  designated  by  the  word  cres.  (d), 
it  is  comprised  from  one  end  to  the  other  between  the  mane  on 
the  upper  side,  and  the  gullet  on  the  lower. 

The  forelock  (e)  is  the  portion  of  the  mane  which  is  on  the 
top  of  the  head  and  falls  over  on  the  forehead  between  the 
eyes. 

The  withers  (j)  is  the  spot  where  the  shoulders  meet  up 
above,  between  the  back  and  the  neck,  at  a  point  where  the 
neck  and  the  mane  come  to  an  end. 

The  chest  (g)  is  that  part  which  is  in  front  between  the 
shoulders  and  below  the  throat. 

The  back   (h)   commences  at  the  withers  and  extends  all 

•  The  horse  possesses  a  peculiar  structure  within  the  eye — the  tapetum  luclda— 
•f  a  lustrous  green  color,  by  which  he  is  enabled  to  see  objectsln  comparatlTe 
darkness,  and  especially  under  his  feet. 


THE  HORSE 


11 


along  the  spine  as  far  as  the  crupper.  When  the  horse  is  fat, 
the  whole  length  of  the  spine  forms  a  kind  of  hollow,  which  is 
said  to  be  channeled. 

The  space  which  is  included  within  the  ribs  is  called  the 
barrel  (i) ;  the  name  of  the  stomach  (j)  is  also  given  to  the 
lower  part  of  the  body  which  joins  the  os  sternum  and  the 
bottom  of  the  ribs. 


The  jianks  lie  at  the  extremity  ot  the  stomach,  and  extend  as 
far  as  the  hip-bones.  The  tail  is  divided  into  two  parts;  the 
stump  or  dock,  and  the  hair. 

The  upper  part  of  the  front  leg  of  the  horse  is  called  the 
shoulder  (m),  although  it  corresponds  with  the  forearm  in  a 
man  ;  the  for  eat  .a  (n)  follows  it  lower  down. 

The  joint  which  is  below  the  forearm  is  called  the  knee  (o); 
it  corresponds  to  the  place  of  the  wrist  in  man,  and  forms  &n 
angle  turning  inwards  when  the  leg  is  bent. 


12  THE  HORSE 

The  shank  (p)  forms  the  second  portion  of  the  foreleg; 
it  commences  at  the  kneejoint,  and  corresponds  to  the  metacar' 
pus  in  man. 

Behind  the  shank  is  a  tendon,  which  extends  from  one  end 
to  the  other,  and  is  called  the  back-sinew. 

The  fetlock-joint  (q)  is  the  articulation  immediately  below 
the  shank. 

The  fetlock  itself  is  a  tuft  of  hair  covering  a  sort  of  soft 
horny  excresence,  which  is  called  the  ergot. 

The  pastern  (r)  is  the  portion  of  the  leg  between  the  fetlock 
joint  and  the  foot. 

The  coronet  (s)  is  an  elevation  lying  below  the  pastern,  and 
is  furnished  with  long  hair  falling  over  the  hoof,  all  round 
the  foot. 

The  hoofs  (t)  form,  so  to  speak,  the  nails  of  the  horse,  and 
consists  of  a  horny  substance. 

In  order  to  describe  the  parts  which  make  up  the  hind  legs 
of  the  horse,  we  must  go  back  to  the  haunches.  Each  of  these 
contains  the  femur,  and  corresponds  to  the  thigh  of  a  man.  It 
is,  therefore,  the  thigh  of  the  horse  which  is  joined  to  the  body, 
and  bears  the  name  of  buttocks.  It  is  terminated  below  and  in 
front  by  the  stifle  (k),  which  is  the  joint  of  the  knee  containing 
the  kneepan.  It  is  situated  below  the  haunch,  on  a  level  with 
the  flank,  and  shifts  its  place  when  the  horse  walks. 

The  highest  part  of  the  hind  leg,  which  is  detached  from  the 
body,  is  called  the  thigh  or  gaskins  (ni),  and  corresponds  to  the 
leg  of  a  man.  It  extends  from  the  stifle  and  lower  part  of  the 
buttocks  down  to  the  hock  (o). 

The  hock  is  the  joint  which  is  below  the  thigh,  and  bends 
forward.  This  joint  represents  the  instep  in  a  man;  the  hinder 
part  of  the  hock,  which  is  called  the  point  of  the  hock,  is  the 
heel. 

Below  the  hock  are  the  shank,  the  fetlock- joint,  the  pastern, 
and  the  foot,  just  the  same  as  in  the  forelegs. 

We  will  now  say  a  few  words  as  to  the  diversity  of  color  in 
the  coat  of  the  horse,  in  order  to  fix  the  meaning  of  the  terms 
which  are  generally  employed  to  designate  the  various  hues 
which  the  coat  presents. 

Bay  is  a  reddish  nut-brown  color,  with  various  shades. 
Dark  Bay  horses  are  of  a  very  dark  brown,  almost  black,  ex- 
cept on  the  flanks  and  tip  of  the  nose,  where  they  are  of  a  red- 
dish color.  The  golden  or  light  hay  is  a  yellow  sun-light  hue. 
Dappled  Bay  horses  have  on  their  rumps  spots  of  a  darker  bay 
than  on  the  rest  of  their  bodies.  In  bay  horses  the  extremi- 
ties, the  mane,  and  the  tail  are  always  black. 

.  There  are  three  kinds  of  black  horses ;  the  rusty  black, 
which   is   of  a   brownish   tinge,   more  or  less   conspicuous   in 


THE  HORSE  13 

various  lights ;  the  black  and  the  coal  black  which  is  the  darkest 
of  all. 

Dun  colored  horses,  of  which  there  are  several  shades,  are  of 
a  yellowish  sandy  hue.  The  mane  and  the  tail  of  these  are 
either  white  or  black.  Some  of  the  latter  have  a  black  line 
along  the  vertebra,  which  is  called  a  mule's  or  eel-stripe. 

Chestnut  is  a  kind  of  reddish  or  cinnamon  colored  bay. 
There  are  several  shades  of  it,  among  which  are  the  bright 
chestnut,  which  is  the  color  of  a  red  cow's  coat ;  the  common 
chestnut,  which  is  neither  dark  nor  bright ;  the  bay  chestnut, 
which  verges  upon  the  red ;  the  burnt  chestnut,  which  is  dark 
and  nearly  approaches  black.  Some  chestnut  horses  have 
white  manes  and  tails :  others,  black.  The  roan  is  a  mixture 
of  red  and  white. 

Grey  horses  have  white  hair  mixed  with  black  or  bay.  There 
are  several  modifications  of  this  color ;  the  dappled  grey,  the 
silver  grey,  the  iron  grey,  etc.  Dapple-grey  horses  have  on 
their  backs  and  other  parts  of  their  body  a  number  of  round 
spots,  in  some  cases  black ;  in  others,  of  a  lighter  hue ;  these 
spots  are  somewhat  irregularly  distributed.  Grey  horses  as 
they  increase  in  age  become  lighter  in  color,  ultimately  be- 
coming white. 

Piebald  and  Skewbald  horses  are  white,  with  large  irregular 
spots  and  stripes  of  some  other  color  irregularly  arranged. 
The  different  kind  are  distinguished  by  the  color  that  is  com- 
bined with  the  white,  as  the  piebald  proper,  which  are  white 
and  black ;  the  skezvbald,  which  are  white  and  bay ;  the  chest- 
nut  piebald,  which  are  white  and  chestnut. 

The  horses  which  have  small  black  spots  on  a  white  or  grey 
coat  are  called  flea-bitten,  particularly  prevalent  in  India  among 
Arabs. 

We  have  hitherto  considered  the  wild  and  domestic  horse  in 
common,  both  as  regards  their  structure  and  their  color — in 
short,  their  outward  appearance  generally — without  noticing 
the  different  breeds,  which  must  soon  occupy  our  attention. 
But  before  we  enter  upon  the  study  of  the  various  equine 
races,  it  is  necessary  to  give  a  short  explanation  as  to  the  way 
in  which  the  bit  regulates  the  paces  of  the  horse.  By  this  we 
are  led  to  speak  of  the  construction  of  the  mouth,  a  knowledge 
of  which  is  most  useful. 

The  horse  either  walks,  trots,  gallops  or  ambles. 

The  paces  of  the  horse  are  essentially  modified  by  means 
both  of  the  bit  and  spur.  The  spur  excites  a  quickness  of 
movement;  the  bit  communicates  to  this  movement  a  due 
amount  of  precision.  The  mouth  of  the  horse  is  so  sensitive 
that  the  least  movement  or  the  slightest  impression  which  it 


14 


THE  HORSE 


receives,  warns  and  regulates  the  motion  of  the  animal.  But 
to  preserve  the  full  delicacy  of  this  organ,  it  is  highly  neces- 
sary to  treat  tenderly  its  extreme  sensibility. 

The  position  of  the  teeth  in  the  jaw  of  the  horse  affords  to 
man  the  facility  which  exists  of  placing  a  bit  in  its  mouth,  by 
which  instrument  this  high-spirited  and  vigorous  animal  is 
broken  in  and  guided.  Let  us,  therefore,  in  the  first  place, 
study  the  arrangement  of  its  mouth. 

There  are  in  each  jaw  six  incisors  or  foreteeth,  followed  on 
either  side  by  a  tush,  which  is  generally  deficient  in  mares, 
especially  in  the  lower  jaw.  Next  comes  a  series  of  six  grind- 
ers on  each  side  in  both  jaws;  these  teeth  have  a  square 
crown,  marked  with  four  crescents,  formed  by  the  lamina  of 
enamel  which  are  embedded  on  them.  Between  the  tushes 
and  grinders  there  is  a  considerable  space  called  the  bar, 
which  corresponds  to  the  angle  of  the  lips,  and  it  is  in  this 
interval  that  the  bit  is  placed. 


FIG.  1.-  DENTITION  OF  THE  ADULT  HORSE. 

6 


(a).  Indiwa,  \{h)  TSxahes  or  Canines,    (c)  Interval  caUed  (he  Bar. 
(d)  MoloTa- 


It  is  also  by  means  of  the  teeth  that  we  are  enabled  to  know 
a  horses  age — a  knowledge  which  is  of  the  highest  utility; 
for  a  horse  increases  in  value  in  proportion  as  he  approaches 
maturity,  again  decreasing  in  worth  as  he  becomes  older.  Up 
to  nine  years  the  age  can  be  determined  pretty  accurately  by 
means  of  the  changes  which  take  place  in  the  teeth. 

The  foal,  at  its  birth,  is  usually  devoid  of  teeth  in  the  front 


THE  HORSE  15 

of  the  mouth,  and  has  only  two  grinders  on  each  side  in  each 
jaw  (Fig.2).  At  the  end  of  a  few  days,  the  two  middle  fore 
teeth,  or  pincers,  make  their  appearance.  In  the  course  of 
the  first  month  a  third  grinder  shows  itself,  and  in  four  months 
more  the  two  next  fore-teeth  also  emerge ;  within  six  and  a 
half  or  eight  months  the  side  incisives,  or  corner  teeth,  show, 
and  also  a  fourth  grinder.  At  this  period  the  first  dentition  is 
complete.  The  changes  which  take  place  up  to  the  age  of  three 
years  depend  only  on  the  fore-teeth  being  worn  away  more  or 
less,  and  the  black  hollows  being  obliterated  gradually  by  con- 
tact with  food.  In  thirteen  to  sixteen  months  the  cavities  on 
the  surface  of  the  pincers  are  effaced ;  they  are  then  said  to  be 
razed.  In  sixteen  to  twenty  months  the  intermediate  fore- 
teeth are  likewise  razed,  and  in  twenty  to  twenty-four  months 
the  same  thing  takes  place  with  the  corner  teeth. 


FIG.  2.  Fia  3. 


AT  EIGHTEEN  DAYS. 

AT   THREE  TEARS. 


The  second  dentition  commences  at  the  age  of  two  and  a  half 
or  three  years  (Fig.  3).  The  milk-teeth  may  be  recognized  by 
their  shortness,  their  whiteness,  and  the  construction  round 
their  base,  called  the  neck  of  the  tooth.  The  teeth  which  re- 
place them  have  no  neck,  and  are  much  larger.  The  pincers 
are  the  first  to  fall  out  and  be  replaced  by  new  ones.  At  the 
age  of  from  three  years  and  a  half  to  four  years  the  interme- 
diate fore-teeth  experience  the  same  change,  and  the  lower 
tushes  begin  to  make  their  appearance.  The  corner  teeth  are 
also  renewed  when  between  four  and  a  half  to  five  years ;  the 
upper  tushes  likewise  pierce  the  gums,  and  about  the  same 
date  the  sixth  grinder  shows  itself. 


18  THE  HORSE 

ises  to  the  child,  he  will  expect  exactly  what  you  promise. 
Here  proof  becomes  faith,  because  he  has  never  been  deceived 
by  the  want  of  performance.  Even  among  men  the  principle 
is  the  same.  That  man,  who  is  always  found  truthful,  and 
who  performs  exactly  as  he  promises  to  do,  becomes  a  standard 
of  public  confidence  and  trust;  but  he  who  disregards  truth 
and  the  principles  of  honor,  becomes  an  object  of  suspicion  to 
all  knowing  him.  As  the  child,  then,  is  the  reflex  of  the  love 
and  truth  of  the  parents  in  confidence,  and  the  public  in  him 
of  undoubted  integrity — so  are  we  forced  to  believe  the  horse 
becomes  in  the  character  of  his  habits  what  he  is,  in  exact  pro- 
portion to  the  teaching  and  example  to  which  he  may  have 
been  subject. 

How  to  Feed,  Water  and  Drive 

Do  not  feed  or  water  heavy  before  driving,  filling  the  stomach 
with  water  and  food ;  water  destroys  the  juices  of  the  stomach, 
weakening  digestion.  The  grain  becomes  swollen  and  gener- 
ates a  gas,  filling  the  stomach  with  wind ;  the  stomach  becom- 
ing diseased,  the  Bot  will  work  his  head  into  the  coating  of 
the  stomach.  All  grain  will  digest  best  while  the  horse  is 
standing  still ;  and  all  food  that  passes  oflF  without  digestion 
weakens  the  action  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  and,  in  many 
cases,  will  scour  the  horse.  The  less  you  feed  before  driving 
the  better.  Then  again,  you  should  water  very  little  on  the 
road.  Feed  mostly  at  night ;  food  will  then  all  digest  and 
make  flesh  and  blood.  I  should  advise  not  more  than  two 
quarts  in  the  morning,  and  the  same  at  noon.  I  do  not  feed 
in  the  morning,  neither  do  I  water.  If  I  was  going  to  make  a 
long  and  fast  drive,  I  should  feed  twelve  quarts  the  night 
before,  then  my  horse  would  be  strong,  and  feel  light  and 
active,  and  do  his  work  easy.  By  giving  him  a  little  water, 
the  horse  will  fully  digest  what  he  has  eaten;  if  you  weaken 
the  juices,  of  course  you  weaken  digestion.  A  horse  should 
only  be  fed  what  he  can  easily  digest.  I  think  by  so  doing 
you  will  save  one  third  of  the  grain  formerly  given.  Diseases 
are  caused  by  too  much  food  and  water ;  the  water  destroys  the 
juices,  and  disables  digestion;  by  feeding  most  of  the  grain 
whilst  the  horse  is  at  rest,  it  will  fully  digest,  and  leave  the 
horse  strong  and  able  to  do  his  work. 

Giving  a  great  amount  of  water,  diseases  the  blood  and  dead- 
ens the  hair.  The  water  must  pass  in  some  way;  it  can't  all 
pass  in  the  urine,  and  it  passes  off  through  the  pores  of  the 
skin,  and  causes  the  hair  to  become  gummed,  and  makes  the 
horse  very  hard  to  clean.  So  much  water  passing  off  through 
the  pores  of  the  flesh  destroys  the  roots  of  the  hair,  and  causes 
it  to  look  dull  and  faded ;  then,  again,  you  should  be  cautious 


THE  HORSE  19 

not  to  drive  your  horse  in  cold  water,  when  warm,  or  throw 
water  on  him  ;  so  doing,  chills  the  blood,  separates  the  blood 
from  the  watery  substances  that  the  blood  forms  from,  and 
causes  disease,  the  skin  will  become  full  of  small  tumors  and 
the  hair  fall  off.  By  avoiding  too  much  water  on  the  road,  and 
too  m.uch  food  before  driving,  and  by  keeping  the  horse  warm 
after  driving,  you  avoid  disease. 

Special  Advice  in  Reference  to  Feeding  Horses 

Never  give  a  horse  whole  grain.  Bruising  and  wetting  it 
with  soft  water,  you  save  thirty  per  cent  of  its  nutritious  ef- 
fects. Steam  it  in  preference  to  wetting,  if  you  have  facilities 
for  doing  so.  Feed  your  horse  two  hours  before  he  begins  his 
day's  work.  Give  him  the  largest  feed  at  night.  Never  tie 
him  to  a  rack ;  it  is  cruel  to  thus  prevent  a  horse  from  lying 
down  when  he  is  tired.  The  best  way  is  to  take  away  your 
rack  altogether,  and  arrange  your  stable  so  as  to  make  it  un- 
necessary to  tie  up  the  horse.  The  stable  should  always  be  dry 
and  well  littered.  Never  give  your  horse  hard  water,  if  soft 
water  is  to  be  had.  If  you  cannot  get  soft  water,  draw  the 
hard  water  out  of  the  well  two  hours  before  you  let  him  drink 
it.  Beans  should  be  full  a  year  old  before  they  are  fit  to  feed 
horses ;  they  should  be  bruised,  the  same  as  grain,  not  ground. 

Horse   Feed    Mixture 

You  ATT  recommends  for  horse  feed,  the  following  mixture : 
Cut  hay,  two  parts  ;  cut  straw,  three  parts — add  to  this  a  quan- 
tity of  bruised  beans,  oats,  or  other  grain — wet  the  whole  with 
soft  water,  and  mix  it  well.  Do  not  feed  your  horse  too  much 
hay,  as  it  is  not  only  a  waste  of  provender,  but  when  he  is  put 
to  work  with  an  overloaded  stomach  it  endangers  his  wind.  If 
left  to  pull  hay  out  of  the  rack  at  pleasure,  a  horse  will  eat  or 
waste  some  thirty  pounds  a  day,  whereas,  by  cutting  up  his 
hay  and  mixing  it  with  other  feed,  as  above  described,  ten 
pounds  is  an  ample  abundance  for  twenty-four  hours.  Horses, 
when  worked,  should  be  fed  three  or  four  times  a  day  with  a 
mixture  of  hay,  straw,  and  grain  as  above  described.  Give 
them  their  food  in  the  manger — be  careful  that  it  is  sweet  and 
clean.  By  following  these  rules,  horses  will  always  be  in  good 
condition — will  not  have  that  swelled  belly  so  peculiar  to  ani- 
mals who  are  allowed  to  fill  their  stomachs  with  hay — and  will 
usually  enjoy  good  health. 

How  to  get  a  Colt  from  Pasture 

Go  to  the  pasture  and  walk  around  the  whole  herd  quietly, 
at  such  a  distance  as  not  to  cause  them  to  scare  or  run.      Then 


20  THE  HORSE 

approach  very  slowly ;  if  they  stick  up  their  heads  and  seem 
to  be  frightened,  hold  on  till  they  become  quiet,  so  as  not  to 
run  them  before  you  are  close  enough  to  drive  them  in  the 
direction  you  want  them  to  go.  When  you  begin  to  drive,  do 
not  flourish  your  arms  or  halloo,  but  gently  follow  them  off, 
leaving  the  direction  free  you  wish  them  to  take.  Thus  ta- 
king advantage  of  their  ingnorance,  you  will  be  able  to  get 
them  in  the  pound  as  esaily  as  the  hunter  drives  the  quails 
into  his  net.  For  if  they  have  always  run  in  the  pasture  un- 
cared  for  (as  many  horses  do  in  prairie  countries  and  on  large 
plantations)  there  is  no  reason  why  they  should  not  be  as  wild 
as  the  sportsman's  birds,  and  require  the  same  gentle  treat- 
ment, if  you  want  to  get  them  without  trouble;  for  the  horse, 
in  his  natural  state,  is  as  wild  as  any  of  the  undomesticated 
animals,  though  more  easily  tamed  than  most  of  them. 

How  to  Stable  a   Colt 

The  next  step  will  be  to  get  the  horse  into  a  stable  or  shed. 
This  should  be  done  as  quietly  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  excite 
any  suspicion  in  the  horse  of  any  danger  befalling  him.  The 
best  way  to  do  this,  is  to  lead  a  broken  horse  into  the  stable 
first  and  hitch  him,  then  quietly  walk  around  the  colt  and  let 
him  go  in  of  his  own  accord.  Be  extremely  deliberate  and 
slow  in  your  movements,  for  one  wrong  move  may  frighten 
your  horse,  i^nd  make  him  think  it  necessary  to  escape  at  all 
hazards  for  the  safety  of  his  life — and  thus  make  two  hour's 
work  of  a  ten  minutes'  job ;  and  this  would  be  all  your  own 
fault,  and  entirely  unnecessary — for  he  will  not  run  unless 
you  run  after  him,  nor  will  he  try  to  break  away  unless  you 
attempt  to  force  him  into  measures.  If  he  does  not  see  the 
way  at  once,  and  is  a  little  fretful  about  going  in,  do  not  un- 
dertake to  drive  him,  but  give  him  a  little  less  room  outside, 
by  gently  closing  in  around  him.  Do  not  raise  your  arms, 
but  let  them  hang  at  your  side,  for  you  might  as  well  raise  a 
club;  the  horse  has  never  studied  anatomy,  and  does  not 
know  but  they  will  unhinge  themselves  and  fly  at  him.  If  he 
attempts  to  turn  back,  walk  before  him,  but  do  not  run ;  and 
if  he  gets  past  you,  encircle  him  again  in  the  same  quiet 
manner,  and  he  will  soon  find  that  you  are  not  going  to  hurt 
him;  and  then  you  can  walk  so  close  around  him  that  he  will 
go  into  the  stable  for  more  room,  and  to  get  farther  from  you. 
As  soon  as  he  is  in,  remove  the  quiet  horse  and  shut  the  door. 
This  will  be  his  first  notion  of  confinement — not  knowing  how 
he  got  into  such  a  place,  nor  how  to  get  out  of  it.  That  he 
may  take  it  as  quietly  as  possible,  see  that  the  shed  is  entirely 
free  from  dogs,  chickens,  or  anything  that  would  annoy  him. 
Then  give  a  few  ears  of  corn,  and  let  him  remain  alone  fifteen 


THE  HORSE  21 

or  twenty  minutes,  until  he  has  examined  his  apartment,  and 
has  become  reconciled  to  his  confinement.  And  now,  while 
your  horse  is  eating  those  few  ears  of  corn,  see  that  your  hal- 
ter is  ready  and  all  right,  and  reflect  upon  the  best  mode  of 
operations ;  for  in  horse-breaking,  it  is  highly  important  that 
you  should  be  governed  by  some  system. 

Objects  of   Fear — How   to   Prevent   Fear 

Whatever  the  horse  understands  to  be  harmless  he  does  not 
fear;  consequently  great  pains  should  be  taken  to  cause  him 
to  examine  and  smell  such  things  as  are  likely  to  frighten  him 
in  after  life.  This  should  be  attended  to  in  his  early  educa- 
tion, since  early  impressions  are  strong  in  the  horse.  A  log 
or  stump  by  the  roadside,  if  regarded  with  suspicion,  should 
be  approached  slowly  or  cautiously ;  to  the  imagination  of  the 
horse,  such  things  are  supposed  to  be  some  great  beast  that 
may  spring  upon  him,  but  which  he  will  soon  comprehend  to 
be  harmless  if  obliged  to  examine  its  nature  in  his  own  way,  by 
advancing  to  the  object  and  allowing  him  to  understand  it 
fully  by  smelling  and  breathing  with  the  nose.  The  boy 
frightened  by  a  false  face  will  care  nothing  about  it  after  he 
takes  it  in  his  hands  and  examines  it ;  and  the  principal  is  the 
same  in  familiarizing  horses  to  objects  of  fear. 

If  your  horse  is  frightened  at  an  umbrella,  you  can  soon 
learn  him  to  be  used  to  that.  Go  into  the  stable  with  him,  and 
first  let  him  look  at  the  umbrella  before  it  is  opened — let  him 
touch  it  with  his  nose.  Open  it  a  little  way  and  then  let  him 
see  it;  and  finally  open  it  wide.  By  ordinary  patience  you 
can  soon  learn  the  horse  to  have  the  umbrella  opened  suddenly 
in  his  face,  without  being  afraid  of  it.  By  a  similar  treat- 
ment you  can  break  any  horse  from  scaring  at  almost  any 
thing  that  may  look  frightful  to  him.  If  you  wish  to  make  a 
trial  of  this  theory,  just  take  a  horse  into  the  stable  and  let 
him  examine  the  frightful  object  a  few  minutes  after  his  mode 
of  examining  things,  and  you  will  be  perfectly  satisfied. 
There  is  a  singular  fact  connected  with  taming  the  horse  that  I 
would  have  never  believed  if  I  had  not  tried  it.  If  you  accus- 
tom him  to  any  particular  object  by  showing  it  to  him  on  one 
side  only,  he  will  not  be  afraid  when  he  sees  it  with  the  eye  on 
that  side;  but  he  will  be  afraid  if  you  approach  him  with  it  on 
the  other  side.  It  is,  therefore,  necessary  to  pacify  him 
on  both  sides  in  all  cases.  After  you  have  accustomed  him  to 
the  umbrella,  or  whatever  you  may  wish  to  make  him  familiar 
with,  on  his  right  side,  repeat  the  operation  on  the  left  side  in 
the  same  manner  as  if  you  had  not  approached  him  at  all. 


22  THE  HORSE 

The   Kind  of   Halter  to  be   Usedi   and   How  to   Put 
It  On  the  Colt 

Never  use  a  rope  halter.  The  cords  of  the  rope  are  hard, 
and  appears  to  aggravate  and  excite  distrust  rather  than  con- 
fidence ;  but  by  all  means  procure  a  leather  halter  made  of 
bridle  leather,  so  it  will  feel  soft  and  pliable  to  the  touch,  and 
to  fit  tolerably  tight  on  the  head,  so  as  not  to  feel  uncomfort- 
able. Before  putting  a  halter  on  the  colt,  he  must  be  rendered 
familiar  with  it  by  carressing  him  and  permitting  him  to  ex- 
amine the  article  with  his  nose.  Then  place  a  portion  of  it 
over  his  head,  occasionally  giving  it  a  slight  pull,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  he  will  be  accustomed  to  these  liberties,  and  then  the 
halter  may  be  fastened  on  properly.  To  teach  him  to  lead  is 
another  difficulty.  Stand  a  little  on  one  side,  rub  his  nose 
and  forehead,  take  hold  of  the  strap  and  pull  gently,  and  at 
the  same  time  touch  him  very  lightly  with  the  end  of  a  long 
whip  across  his  hind  legs.  This  will  make  him  start  forward 
a  few  steps.  Repeat  the  operation  several  times  and  he  will 
soon  learn  to  follow  you  by  simply  pulling  the  halter.  The 
mouth  of  the  colt  should  be  frequently  handled,  after  which 
introduce  a  plain  snaffle  between  his  teeth  and  hold  it  there 
witli  one  hand  while  you  caress  him  with  the  other.  After  a 
time  he  will  allow  the  bridle  to  be  placed  upon  him.  The 
saddle  can  then  be  brought  in  and  rubbed  against  his  nose,  his 
neck,  and  his  legs ;  next  hang  the  stirrup  strap  across  his 
back,  and  gradually  insinuate  the  saddle  into  its  place.  The 
girth  should  not  be  fastened,  until  he  becomes  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  saddle.  The  first  time  the  girth  is 
buckled,  it  should  be  done  so  loosely  as  not  to  attract  his  atten- 
tion ;  subsequently  it  can  be  tightened  without  inspiring  him 
with  fear,  which,  if  fastened  immediately,  it  would  most  cer- 
tainly do.  In  this  manner  the  wildest  colt  can  be  effectually 
subjugated  by  such  imperceptible  degrees  that  he  gives  tacit 
obedience  before  he  is  aware  of  his  altered  condition. 

To  Break  a  Horse  to  Harness 

Take  him  in  a  tight  stable,  take  the  harness  and  go  through 
the  same  process  as  you  would  with  the  saddle,  until  you  get 
him  familiar  with  them,  so  you  can  put  them  on  his  back  and 
rattle  them  about  without  his  caring  for  them.  As  soon  as  he 
will  bear  them,  put  on  the  lines,  caress  him  as  you  draw  them 
over  him,  and  drive  him  about  in  the  stable  till  he  will  bear 
them  over  his  hips.  The  lines  are  a  great  aggravation  to  some 
colts,  and  often  frighten  them  as  much  as  if  you  were  to  raise 
a  whip  over  them.  As  soon  as  he  is  familiar  with  the  harness 
and  lines,  take  him  out  and  put  him  by  the  side  of  a  gentle 


THE  HORSE  23 

horse,  and  go  through  the  same  process  that  you  did  with  the 
blinds  when  you  are  breaking  a  horse  to  harness. 

After  fixing  the  lines,  then  hitrh  the  horse  to  a  small  log 
that  he  can  draw  very  easy,  with  iong  traces,  frequently  turn- 
ing him,  so  that  the  traces  will  draw  lightly  against  his  legs — 
frequently  stopping  and  petting  him ;  then  hitch  him  to  some- 
thing heavier ;  then  get  behind  him  and  drive  him.  By  thus 
working  with  him  you  will  make  a  strictly  true  horse  of  him — 
he  also  getr  so  that  he  is  not  afraid  of  the  traces  or  harness. 
You  r?.n  then  proceed  to  hitch  him  to  a  buggy  or  wagon. 
Persons  should  not  drive  fast  at  first  hitching  a  colt  in  harness 
— he  should  be  handled  very  careful  at  first.  In  handling  colts 
in  this  way  you  will  have  no  trouble  with  them,  but  will  have 
a  much  better  broke  horse,  and  one  that  would  be  more  safe 
for  a  family.  A  horse  broken  in  this  way  is  not  half  so  easily 
spoiled  as  one  broken  by  any  other  process. 

In  breaking  horses  to  ride  they  should  be  handled  in  very 
much  the  same  way  as  I  have  spoken  of.  After  biting  them 
sufficiently  you  may  proceed  to  saddle  them ;  then  ride  them 
over  two  or  three  miles  at  a  time — not  enough  to  tire  them. 

To  Break  Horses  to  Stand  the  Fire  of  a  Gun 

You  commence  by  administering  the  three  articles  first  men- 
tioned in  the  nostrils  this  will  prevent  him  from  smelling  the 
powder.  Then  load  your  pistol — but  very  light,  so  as  to  make 
the  report  as  light  as  possible  ;  every  time  you  fire,  give  him  a 
small  piece  of  an  apple,  with  some  powder  on  it ;  then  rub  and 
pat  him  on  the  head  and  neck.  When  you  first  commence 
firing,  stand  close  to  the  horse's  shoulders,  rest  your  arms  on 
his  withers.  After  you  have  fired  a  sufficient  number  of  times 
mount  the  horse  and  shoot  from  his  back.  Keeping  up  this 
practice  for  a  short  time,  the  horse  will  get  so  that  he  will  not 
care  anything  about  the  fire  of  a  gun  at  any  time  or  place. 

Necessity   of    Repetition    of   Lessons    and   a 
Thorough   Training 

The  horse  must  be  convinced  by  repeated  proofs  of  being 
over-matched  that  resistance  is  useless.  For  since  his  willing- 
ness and  rebellion  are  each  based  upon  the  limited  reasoning 
of  his  experience,  he  must  be  thoroughly  convinced  by  expe- 
rience that  unconditional  submission  is  the  only  alternative ; 
this  you  cannot  prove  to  the  understanding  of  the  horse  with- 
out repeating  your  lessons  until  he  submits  unconditionally. 
But  as  nursing  and  care  is  to  the  patient  over  the  force  of  dis- 
ease, so  is  the  subjugation  of  the  horse — his  submission  should 
be  encouraged  and   rewarded  by  kindness,  and  feeding  from 


24  THE  HORSE 

the  hand  with  little  presents  of  such  things  as  he  likes.  That 
master  is  supreme  in  his  control,  and  submission  to  his  com- 
mands becomes  a  pleasure,  who  has  the  power  to  enforce  his 
will,  but  who  exercises  it  with  the  sweetening  encouragement 
of  love.  While  force  is  necessary,  and  you  have  the  means  of 
making  your  horse  almost  a  plaything  in  your  hands,  let  the 
silken  cord  of  love  be  the  cement  that  fixes  and  secures  this 
submission  to  your  will.  A  good-natured,  clever  man,  it  is 
admitted,  can  teach  a  horse  almost  anything,  and  it  has  be- 
come a  proverb  that  kindness  will  lead  an  elephant  by  a  hair. 
Show  your  horse  exactly  what  you  want  him  to  do,  and  en- 
deavor to  use  the  patience  and  reason  in  teaching  and  con- 
trolling him,  you  would  believe  necessary  for  yourself  to  un- 
derstand if  placed  in  like  circumstances.  Ignorant  of  the  lan- 
guage and  intentions  of  such  a  teacher,  who  even  preserved 
his  patience,  and  refrained  from  abuse,  what  progress  would 
you  make  as  a  pupil — gifted  as  you  are  with  all  your  intelli- 
gence? If  possible,  ennoble  and  elevate  your  feelings  by  real- 
izing your  responsibility  to  yourself,  to  the  community,  and 
to  the  noble  animal  committed  to  your  charge.  Make  your 
horse  a  friend  by  kindness  and  good  treatment.  Be  a  kind 
master,  and  not  a  tyrant — make  your  horse  a  willing  servant, 
and  not  a  slave. 

How  to  Proceed  with  the  Colt  after  Haltering 

The  first  time  you  halter  a  colt  you  should  stand  on  the  left 
side,  pretty  well  back  to  his  shoulder,  taking  hold  of  that  part 
of  the  halter  that  goes  around  his  neck,  then  with  your  two 
hands  about  his  neck  you  can  hold  his  head  to  you,  and  raise 
the  halter  on  it  without  making  him  dodge,,  by  putting  your 
hands  about  his  nose.  You  should  have  a  long  rope  or  strap 
ready,  and  as  soon  as  you  have  the  halter  on  attach  this  to  it ; 
so  that  you  can  let  him  walk  the  length  of  the  stable  without 
letting  go  the  strap,  or  without  making  him  pull  on  the  halter, 
for  if  you  only  let  him  feel  the  weight  of  your  hand  on  the 
halter,  and  give  him  more  rope  when  he  runs  from  you,  he 
will  never  rear,  pull  or  throw  himself,  yet  you  will  be  holding 
him  all  the  time,  and  doing  more  towards  gentling  him  than 
if  you  had  the  power  to  snub  him  right  up,  and  hold  him  to 
one  spot ;  because  he  knows  nothing  about  his  strength,  and 
if  you  don't  do  anything  to  make  him  pull,  he  will  never  know 
what  he  can  do  in  that  way.  In  a  few  minutes  you  can  begin 
to  conrtol  him  with  the  halter,  then  shorten  the  distance  be- 
tween yourself  and  the  horse  by  taking  up  the  strap  in  your 
hand.      As  soon  as  he  will  allow  you  to  hold  him  by  a  tolerably 


THE  HORSE  25 

short  strap,  and  to  step  up  to  him  without  flying  back,  you 
can  begin  to  give  him  some  idea  about  leading. 

But  to  do  this,  do  not  go  before  him  and  attempt  to  pull  him 
after  you,  but  commence  by  pulling  him  very  quietly  to  one 
side.  He  has  nothing  to  brace  either  side  of  his  neck,  and 
will  soon  yield  to  a  steady,  gradual  pull  of  the  halter;  as  soon 
as  you  have  pulled  him  a  step  or  two  to  one  side,  step  up  and 
caress  him,  and  then  pull  him  again,  repeating  this  operation 
until  you  can  pull  him  in  every  direction,  and  walk  about  the 
stable  with  him  ;  this  you  can  do  in  a  few  minutes,  for  he  will 
soon  think  when  you  have  made  him  step  to  the  right  and  left 
a  few  times,  that  he  is  compelled  to  follow  the  pull  of  the 
halter,  not  knowing  that  he  has  the  power  to  resist  your  pull- 
ing ;  besides  you  have  handled  him  so  gently  that  he  is  not 
afraid  of  you,  but  rather  likes  you.  After  you  have  given  him 
a  few  lessons  of  this  kind,  at  proper  intervals,  he  will  be  so 
tame  that  if  you  turn  him  out  to  pasture,  he  will  come  up  to 
you  to  be  caressed  every  opportunity  he  gets. 

While  training  him  in  the  stable,  you  should  lead  him  about 
some  time  before  you  take  him  out,  opening  the  door,  so  that 
he  can  see  out,  leading  him  up  to  it  and  back  again,  and 
then  past  it.  See  that  there  is  nothing  on  the  outside  to 
make  him  jump  when  you  take  him  out,  and  as  you  go  out 
with  him,  try  to  make  him  go  very  slowly,  catching  hold  of 
the  halter  close  to  the  jaw  with  your  left  hand,  while  the  right 
is  resting  on  the  top  of  his  neck,  holding  to  his  mane.  Do  not 
allow  anyone  to  be  present  or  in  sight,  during  your  operations, 
either  in  or  outside  the  stable.  If  you  are  entirely  alone,  and 
manage  your  colt  rightly,  you  will  soon  be  able  to  lead  and 
hold  him  as  easily  as  you  could  a  horse  already  broken. 

Do   Not  Try  To   Force  The   Colt   If  Excited 

When  excited  the  colt  is  not  in  a  condition  to  understand 
what  you  require  of  him,  or  to  .be  submissive.  You  should 
also  be  careful  not  to  train  the  colt  until  he  becomes  heated 
and  confused.  But  little  should  be  required  at  a  time,  and 
hold  to  that  point  until  you  gain  it  thoroughly  before  you  un- 
dertake to  do  more.  For  example :  in  making  a  colt  follow,  if 
he  submits  ever  so  little,  caress  and  reward  him  for  it,  and  so 
continue  and  you  will  have  no  trouble. 

When  you  resort  to  force  do  it  sharply,  so  as  to  impress  him 
as  much  as  possible  with  your  power. 

How  to  Proceed  if  a  Colt  is  Stubborn 

If  the  animal  you  are  operating  upon  seems  to  be  a  stubborn 
or  mulish  disposition  rather  than  wild ;  if  he  lay  back  his  ears 
as  you  approach  him,  or  turn  his  heel  to  kick  you,  he  has  not 


26  THE  HORSE 

that  regard  or  fear  of  man  that  he  should  have,  to  enable  you 
to  handle  him  quickly  and  easily ;  and  it  might  do  well  to  give 
him  a  few  sharp  cuts  with  the  whip,  about  the  legs,  pretty 
close  to  the  body.  It  will  crack  keen  as  it  plies  about  the  legs, 
and  the  crack  of  the  whip  will  affect  him  as  much  as  thr  stroke ; 
besides,  one  sharp  cut  about  the  legs  will  affect  him  more  than 
two  or  three  over  the  back,  the  skin  on  the  inner  part  of  the 
legs  or  about  his  flanks  being  thinner,  and  more  tender  than 
on  his  back.  Do  not  whip  him  much ;  only  just  enough  to 
scare  him ;  it  is  not  to  hurt  the  horse  that  we  whip  him ;  we  do 
it  to  scare  bad  disposition  out  of  him.  But  whatever  you  do, 
do  quickly,  sharply  and  with  a  good  deal  of  fire,  but  always 
without  anger.  If  you  go  to  scare  him  at  all,  you  must  do  it 
at  once.  Never  go  into  a  pitched  battle  with  your  horse,  and 
whip  him  until  he  is  mad,  and  will  fight  you:  you  had  better 
not  touch  him  at  all,  for  you  will  establish,  instead  of  fear  and 
regard,  feelings  of  resentment,  hatred,  and  ill-will.  It  will  do 
him  no  good,  but  harm,  to  strike  him,  unless  you  frighten 
him ;  if  you  succeed  in  frightening  him,  you  can  whip  him 
without  making  him  mad;  for  fear  and  anger  never  exist 
together  in  a  horse,  and  as  soon  as  one  is  visible,  you  will 
find  that  the  other  has  disappeared.  As  soon  as  you  have 
frightened  him,  so  that  he  will  stand  up  straight  and  pay  some 
attention  to  you,  approach  him  again  and  caress  him  a  good  deal 
more  than  you  whipped  him ;  thus  you  will  excite  the  two 
controlling  passions  of  his  nature,  love  and  fear;  he  will  love, 
and  fear  you  too ;  and  as  soon  as  he  learns  what  you  require,  he 
will  obey  quickly. 

If  the  colt  is  of  too  mulish  a  disposition  to  yield  to  careful 
and  gentle  treatment,  as  here  given,  you  must  resort  to  the  sev- 
eral measures  recommended  for  taming  vicious  horses. 

To  Make  a  Colt  Follow  Under  the  Whip 

After  the  colt  comes  around  to  you  readily  by  pulling  a  little 
on  the  halter,  and  follows  freely,  take  your  whip  in  the  right 
hand  ;  pull  upon  the  halter  a  little  saying :  "Come  here.  Sir !" 
And  at  the  same  time  tap  lightly  with  the  whip  over  the  hips ; 
he  will  come  to  you  mainly  because  you  have  taught  him  to 
yield  to  a  slight  pull  upon  the  head,  and  will  come  to  you  at 
this  signal,  and  because  he  wishes  to  get  away  from  the  touch 
of  the  whip  behind.  As  soon  as  he  comes  to  you,  caress 
him  and  feed  him  from  the  hand  with  something  he  likes ; 
repeat  this,  each  time  pulling  upon  the  halter,  until  he  will 
come  to  you  as  readily  by  tapping  with  the  whip  as  he  did  at 
first  to  the  halter.  Now,  instead  of  hitting  with  the  whip, 
commence  by  snapping  it  behind  him  ;  if  he  comes,  caress  and 
encourage  as  before,  and  so  repeat,  at  each  time  increasing  the 


THE  HORSE  27 

distance  from  him,  until  he  will  follow  or  come  to  you  quickly 
by  cracking  the  whip. 

A  few  lessons  of  the  foregoing  kind,  will  make  him  run  after 
you,  when  he  sees  the  motion  of  the  whip — in  twenty  or  thirty 
minutes  he  will  follow  you  around  the  stable.  After  you  have 
given  him  two  or  three  lessons  in  the  stable,  take  him  in  a 
small  lot  and  train  him ;  and  from  thence  you  can  take  him 
into  the  road,  and  make  him  follow  you  anywhere  and  run 
after  you. 

How  To  Make  a  Horse  Stand  Still  Without  Hifching 


After  you  have  well  broken  him  to  follow  you,  stand  him  in 
the  centre  of  the  stable — begin  at  the  head  to  caress  him,  and 
gradually  work  backwards.  If  he  moves,  give  him  a  cut  with 
the  whip,  and  put  him  back  to  the  same  spot  from  where  he 
started.  If  he  stands,  caress  him  as  before,  and  continue 
gentling  him  in  this  way  until  you  can  get  around  him  without 
making  him  move.  Keep  walking  round  him,  increasing 
your  pace,  and  only  touch  him  occasionally.  Enlarge  your 
circle  as  you  walk  around,  and  if  he  then  moves,  give  him 
another  cut  with  the  whip  and  put  him  back  to  his  place.  If 
he  stands,  go  to  him  frequently  and  caress  him,  and  then  walk 
round  again.  Do  not  keep  him  in  one  position  too  long  at 
a  time. 

How  to  Lead  a  Colt  with  a  Broke  Horse 


If  you  should  want  to  lead  your  colt  by  the  side  of  another 
horse,  you  must  first  put  the  horse  into  a  stable  with  the  colt. 
You  first  attach  a  second  strap  to  the  colt's  halter,  and  lead 
your  horse  up  along  side  of  him.  Then  get  on  the  broke 
horse,  and  take  one  strap  round  his  breast  under  the  martin- 
gale, (if  he  has  any  on),  holding  it  on  your  left  hand.  This 
will  prevent  the  colt  from  getting  back  too  far;  besides  you 
have  more  power  to  hold  him,  with  the  strap  pulling  against 
the  horse's  breast.  The  other  strap  take  up  in  your  right  hand 
to  prevent  him  from  running  ahead ;  then  turn  him  about  in 
the  stable,  and  if  the  door  is  wide  enough,  ride  out  with  him 
ixi  that  position;  if  not,  take  the  broke  horse  out  first,  and 
stand  his  breast  up  against  the  door,  then  lead  the  colt  to  the 
same  spot  and  take  the  straps  as  before  directed,  one  on  each 
side  of  his  neck,  and  then  let  some  one  start  the  colt  out,  and 
as  the  colt  comes  out,  turn  your  horse  to  the  left,  and  you  will 
have  them  right.      You  can  manage  any  kind  of  a  colt  this 


28  THE  HORSE 

way,  without  trouble ;  for,  if  he  tries  to  run  ahead  or  pull  back, 
the  two  straps  will  bring  the  two  horses  facing  each  other,  so 
that  you  can  very  easily  follow  up  his  movements  without 
doing  much  holding,  and  as  soon  as  he  stops  running  back- 
ward, you  are  right  with  him  and  all  ready  to  go  ahead.  If  he 
gets  stubborn  and  does  not  want  to  go,  you  can  remove  all  his 
stubbornness  by  riding  your  horse  against  his  neck,  thus  com- 
pelling him  to  turn  to  the  right;  and  as  soon  as  you  have 
turned  him  about  a  few  times,  he  will  be  willing  to  go  along. 
The  next  thing,  after  you  are  through  leading  him,  will  be  to 
take  him  into  a  stable  and  hitch  him  in  such  a  way  as  not  to 
have  him  pull  on  the  halter. 

How  to  Lead  a  Colt  Into  a  Stable 

You  should  lead  a  broken  horse  into  the  stable  first,  and 
get  the  colt,  if  you  can  to  follow  in  after  him.  If  he  refuses  to 
go,  step  up  to  him,  taking  a  little  stick  or  switch  in  your  right 
hand ;  then  take  hold  of  the  halter  close  to  his  head 
with  your  left  hand,  at  the  same  time  reaching  over  his 
back  with  your  right  arm  so  that  you  can  tap  him  on  the  op- 
posite side  with  your  switch ;  bring  him  up  facing  the  door, 
tap  him  slightly  with  your  switch,  reaching  as  far  back  with  it 
as  you  can.  This  tapping,  by  being  pretty  well  back,  ^nd  on 
the  opposite  side,  will  drive  him  ahead,  and  keep  him  close  to 
you ;  then  by  giving  him  the  right  direction  with  your  left 
hand  you  can  walk  into  the  stable  with  him.  I  have  walked 
colts  into  the  stable  this  way  in  less  than  a  minute,  after  men 
had  worked  at  them  half  an  hour,  trying  to  pull  them  in.  If 
you  cannot  walk  him  in  at  once  in  this  way,  turn  him  about 
and  walk  him  around  awhile  until  you  can  get  him  up  to  the 
door  without  pulling  at  him.  Then  let  him  stand  a  few  min- 
utes, keeping  his  head  in  the  right  direction  with  the  halter, 
and  he  will  soon  walk  in  of  his  own  accord.  Never  attempt  to 
pull  the  colt  into  the  stable ;  that  would  make  him  think  at 
once  that  it  was  a  dangerous  place,  and  if  he  was  not  afraid  of 
it  before  he  would  be  then.  Besides,  we  do  not  want  him  to 
know  anything  about  pulling  on  the  halter.  If  you  want  to 
tie  up  your  colt,  put  him  in  a  tolerably  wide  stall,  which  should 
not  be  too  long,  and  should  be  connected  by  a  bar  or  some- 
thing of  that  kind  to  the  partition  behind  it;  so  that,  after  the 
colt  is  in  he  cannot  go  far  enough  back  to  take  a  straight,  back- 
ward pull  on  the  halter ;  then  by  tying  him  in  the  centre  of  the 
stall,  it  would  be  impossible  for  him  to  pull  on  the  halter,  the 
partition  behind  preventing  him  from  going  back,  and  the  hal- 
ter in  the  centre  checking  him  every  time  he  turns  to  the  right 
or  left.  In  a  stall  of  this  kind  you  can  break  any  horse  to 
stand  tied  with  a  light  strap,  anywhere,  without  his  ever  know- 


THE  HORSE  29 

ing  anything  about  pulling.  For  if  you  have  broken  your 
horse  to  lead,  and  have  taught  him  the  use  of  the  halter  (which 
you  should  always  do  before  you  hitch  him  to  anything),  you 
can  hitch  him  in  any  kind  of  a  stall,  and  if  you  give  him  some- 
thing to  eat  to  keep  him  up  to  his  place  for  a  few  minutes  at 
first,  there  is  not  one  colt  in  fifty  that  will  pull  on  his  halter, 
or  ever  attempt  to  do  so. 

This  is  an  important  feature  in  breaking  the  colt,  for  if  he 
is  allowed  to  pull  on  the  halter  at  all,  and  particularly  if  he 
finds  out  that  he  can  break  the  halter,  he  will  never  be  safe. 


THE    EUREKA    BRIDLE 

The  most  powerful  means  of  learning  a  colt  to  lead  is  by  the 
use  of  what  is  designated  or  called  the  Eureka  Bridle. 

How   to    Make   the    Eureka    Bridle 

Take  a  cotton  cord  made  of  fine  yarn  such  as  is  sometimes 
used  for  a  bed  cord  or  clothes  line,  usually  about  three  eighths 
of  an  inch  thick.  If  you  cannot  get  cotton  cord,  hemp  or  any- 
thing of  the  kind  that  is  strong  enough  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose. Let  it  be  about  fifteen  feet  long,  tie  one  end  into  a  hard 
knot,  just  as  you  would  to  prevent  its  raveling ;  tie  another 
knot  about  ten  inches  or  little  more  from  the  one  on  the  end, 
but  before  you  draw  it  tight,  put  the  knot  on  the  end  through. 
You  now  have  a  loop  that  will  not  slip,  made  on  the  same 
principle  that  a  rope  is  tied  around  the  neck  of  a  horse  to  hitch 
with,  so  as  not  to  tighten  upon  the  neck  by  pulling  upon  it. 
This  loop  should  be  just  large  enough  to  slip  over  the  under 
jaw  of  the  horse  you  wish  to  train ;  put  this  loop  over  the  lower 
jaw,  then,  while  standing  on  the  near  side,  take  the  cord  in 
the  left  hand  and  bring  over  the  neck  by  passing  the  left  hand 
under  the  neck  to  the  opposite  side  towards  the  mane,  bring 
the  right  hand  over  the  neck  and  take  the  cord  from  the  left 
and  pass  back  to  the  loop,  and  put  through  from  the  top  side, 
until  the  part  over  the  neck  is  drawn  down  like  a  check-rein; 
now  take  hold  of  the  end  of  the  rein,  and  you  will  find  you 
have  a  means  of  power  in  it  that  makes  the  strongest  horse  al- 
most a  plaything  in  your  hands. 

The  objection  to  the  use  of  the  Eureka  Bridle  in  the  train- 
ing of  the  innocent  colt,  is,  that  the  ignorant  are  inconsiderate 
in  its  use.  Instead  of  using  it  with  the  utmost  mildness  a 
little  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  colt  is  made  an  excuse  to  use 


30  THE  HORSE 

it  in  the  most  severe  manner,  until  the  colt  either  submits  un- 
conditionally, or  becomes  so  desperate  with  pain  as  to  be  en- 
tirely reckless  and  regardless  of  the  utmost  efforts. 

When  your  horse  resists  too  much  you  will  always  find  it  to 
your  advantage  to  put  him  away  for  a  short  time  until  he  be- 
comes cool.  In  fact,  the  great  secret  of  training  is  in  not  train- 
too  long,  and  repeating.  If  you  intend  using  the  Eureka 
Bridle  as  a  means  of  subduing  your  colt,  put  it  on  after  you 
tamper  him  on  three  legs,  with  the  strap  over  the  back.  As 
soon  as  he  submits  cleverly  to  this  step,  instead  of  fastening 
up  the  leg  as  by  the  method  already  described,  take  off  your 
strap.  Then  put  on  the  Eureka  Bridle  gently,  when  step  to 
one  side  and  back,  and  say:  "Come  here  sir!"  pulling  a  very 
little  upon  the  bridle,  just  enough  to  bring  his  head  towards 
you  a  little.  Now  step  up  to  him  and  pat  him  on  the  neck, 
and  say,  "You  are  a  fine  fellow."  Then  try  again  in  the  same 
way,  and  so  repeat  until  he  will  come  to  you  quite  freely.  You 
may  increase  your  force  upon  the  bridle  in  proportion  to  his 
submission,  but  not  if  he  show  stubbornness.  You  may  then 
step  to  the  other  side  and  repeat  the  lesson  until  he  will  come 
to  you  either  way  cheerfully.  Now  you  wish  him  to  follow 
you;  continue  your  training  in  this  way,  gradually  pulling  a 
little  more  on  a  line  with  his  body,  until  he  will  follow  as  well 
ahead  as  he  does  sideways. 

How  to  Break  Horses  to  Ride 

If  a  colt,  you  must  first  supple  the  muscles  of  the  back  be- 
fore permitting  much  weight  to  be  carried.  You  must  keep 
in  mind  that  he  is  not  accustomed  to  carry  weight,  and  that  to 
put  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  on  would  be  entirely  wrong. 
You  must  give  the  colt  to  understand  that  you  are  his  friend. 
It  will  require  but  a  few  days  to  supple  the  muscles  of  the  neck 
and  back ;  then  you  have  a  horse  that  will  guide  easily.  After 
the  first  three  days,  the  horse  will  carry  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  pounds  easier  than  at  first  he  would  carry  forty. 

You  will  now  fasten  the  saddle  on,  but  not  too  far  forward ; 
buckle  the  girths  tight,  and  let  him  remain  a  few  moments ; 
then  approach  him  gently,  pat  him  on  the  neck,  and  draw  up 
the  reins  tight,  with  the  left  hand  to  the  withers ;  put  the  foot 
in  the  stirrup,  and  bear  gently  on  the  saddle,  then  pat  him 
gently  on  the  back  and  rump,  speaking  very  low  during  the 
time.  Then  rise  gently,  throwing  the  right  leg  over  the 
saddle,  and  sit  perfectly  still  for  a  few  moments ;  then^.  dis- 
mount and  caress  him,  patting  his  head  and  back,  after  doing 
so  a  few  times  he  will  be  as  submissive  as  a  lamb. 


THE  HORSE  31 

As  to  Heindting  the  Feet  of  a  Horse 

Should  the  colt  refuse  to  have  his  feet  handled,  he  may  be 
made  to  submit  by  reproving  with  the  bridle  and  putting  a 
small  strap  on  the  hind  foot,  then  pull  on  this  strap  and  bring 
the  foot  up ;  then  at  the  moment  he  kicks,  bring  down  on  the 
mouth  sharply  with  the  bridle.  In  a  short  time  he  will  sub- 
mit to  your  control  unconditionally.  The  same  principle  ap- 
plies to  the  use  of  this  under  all  circumstances.  It  is  a  means 
of  reproof,  and  certainly  has  a  powerful  effect  upon  a  horse. 

How  to  Teach  a  Horse  to  Pace 

First  take  nine  or  ten  pound  of  lead,  divide  in  four  parts, 
equal  to  three  and  three-quarter  inches,  by  four  and  a  half  in 
size;  make  two  holes  in  each  end  of  these  leads,  then  fasten 
two  of  them  together  and  have  them  padded.  Then  fasten 
them  on  the  horse's  legs,  one  on  each  hind  leg,  just  above  the 
ankle  joint.  Ride  your  horse  briskly  with  those  weights  upon 
his  ankles,  at  the  same  time  pulling  each  rein  of  the  bridle  al- 
ternately. By  this  means  you  immediately  throw  him  into  a 
pacey  After  you  have  in  this  way  trained  him  to  some  extent, 
change  your  leaden  weights  to  something  lighter ;  leather  pad- 
dings, or  something  equal  to  it  will  answer  the  purpose.  Let 
him  wear  those  weights  until  he  is  perfectly  trained.  By 
adopting  this  plan,  you  will  speedily  make  a  smooth  and  easy 
pacer  of  any  horse. 

Management  of  Wild   Horses 

Cause  your  horse  or  colt  to  be  put  in  a  small  yard,  stable,  or 
room.  If  in  a  stable  or  room,  it  ought  to  be  large  in  order  to 
give  some  exercise  with  the  halter  before  you  lead  him  out.  If 
the  horse  belongs  to  that  class  which  only  appears  to  fear  man, 
you  must  introduce  yourself  gently  into  the  stable,  room,  or 
yard  where  the  horse  is.  He  will  naturally  run  from  you,  and 
frequently  turn  his  head  towards  you;  but  you  must  walk 
about  extremely  slow  and  softly,  so  that  he  can  see  whenever 
he  turns  his  head  towards  you  which  he  never  fails  to  do  in  a 
short  time — in  a  quarter  or  half  an  hour.  I  never  knew  one  to 
be  much  longer  without  turning  his  head  towards  me.  At  the 
very  moment  he  turns  his  head,  hold  out  your  left  hand  to- 
wards him,  and  stand  perfectly  still,  keeping  your  eyes  upon 
the  horse,  watching  his  motions,  if  he  make  any.  If  the  horse 
does  not  stir  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  advance  as  slowly  as 
possible,  and  without  making  the  least  noise,  always  holding 
out  your  left  hand.  If  the  horse  makes  the  least  motion  when 
you  advance  towards  him,  stop  and  remain  perfectly  still  until 


32  THE  HORSE 

he  is  quiet.  Remain  a  few  moments  in  this  condition,  and 
then  advance  again  in  the  same  slow  and  almost  imperceptible 
manner.  If  the  horse  then  stirs  again,  stop  without  changing 
your  position.  It  is  very  uncommon  for  the  horse  to  stir 
more  than  once  after  you  begin  to  advance ;  yet  there  are  some 
exceptions.  He  generally  keeps  his  eyes  steadfast  upon  you 
until  you  get  near  enough  to  touch  him  on  the  forehead.  When 
you  are  thus  near  to  him,  raise  slowly  and  by  degrees  your 
hand,  and  let  it  come  in  contact  with  that  part  just  above  the 
nostrils,  as  possible.  If  the  horse  flinches  (as  many  will),  re- 
peat with  great  rapidity  these  light  strokes  upon  the  fore- 
head, going  a  little  further  up  towards  his  ears  by  degrees,  and 
descending  with  the  same  rapidity  until  he  will  let  you  handle 
his  forehead  all  over.  Now  let  the  strokes  be  repeated  with 
more  force  over  all  his  forehead,  descending  by  lighter  strokes 
to  each  side  of  his  head,  until  you  can  handle  that  part  with 
equal  facility.  Then  touch  in  the  same  light  manner,  making 
your  hands  and  fingers  play  around  the  lower  part  of  the 
horse's  ears,  coming  down  now  and  then  to  his  forehead, 
which  may  be  looked  upon  as  the  helm  that  governs  all  the 
rest. 

Having  succeeded  in  handling  his  ears,  advance  towards  the 
neck,  with  the  same  precautions  and  in  the  same  manner; 
observing  always  to  augment  the  force  of  the  strokes  when- 
ever the  horse  will  permit  it.  Perform  the  same  on  both  sides 
of  the  neck,  until  he  lets  you  take  it  in  your  arms  without 
flinching. 

Proceed  in  the  same  progressive  manner  to  the  sides,  and 
then  to  the  back  of  the  horse.  Every  time  the  horse  shows  any 
nervousness,  return  immediately  to  the  forehead,  as  the  true 
standard,  patting  him  with  your  hands,  and  thence  rapidly 
to  where  you  had  already  arrived,  always  gaining  ground 
a  considerable  distance  farther  on  every  time  this  happens. 
The  head,  ears,  neck,  and  body  being  thus  gentled,  proceed 
from  the  back  to  the  root  of  the  tail. 

This  must  be  managed  with  dexterity,  as  a  horse  is  never  to 
be  depended  on  that  is  skittish  about  the  tail.  Let  your 
hand  fall  lightly  and  rapidly  on  that  part  next  to  the  body  a 
minute  or  two,  and  then  you  will  begin  to  give  it  a  slight  pull 
upwards  every  quarter  of  a  minute.  At  the  same  time  you 
continue  this  handling  of  him,  augment  the  force  of  the  strokes 
as  well  as  the  raising  of  the  tail,  until  you  can  raise  it  and 
handle  it  with  the  greatest  ease,  which  commonly  happens  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  in  most  horses,  in  others  almost  imme- 
diately, and  in  some  much  longer.  It  now  remains  to  handle 
all  his  legs ;  from  the  tail  come  back  again  to  the  head — handle 
•t  well,  as  likewise  the  ears,  breast,  neck,  etc.,  speaking  now 


THE  HORSE  33 

and  then  to  the  horse.  Begin  by  degrees  to  descend  to  the 
legs,  always  ascending  and  descending,  gaining  ground  every 
time  you  descend  until  you  get  to  his  feet. 

Talk  to  the  horse  while  you  are  thus  taming  him ;  let  him 
hear  the  sound  of  your  voice,  which  at  the  beginning  of  the 
operation,  is  not  quite  so  necessary,  but  which  I  have  always 
done  in  making  him  lift  up  his  feet.  "Hold  up  your  foot," 
you  will  say,  at  the  same  time  lifting  up  his  foot  with  your 
hand.  He  soon  becomes  familiar  with  the  sounds,  and  will 
hold  up  his  foot  at  command.  Then,  proceed  to  the  hind  feet, 
and  go  on  in  the  same  manner ;  and  in  a  short  time  the 
horse  will  let  you  lift  them,  and  even  take  them  up  in  your 
arms. 

All  this  operation  is  no  magnetism,  no  galvanism;  it  is 
merely  taking  away  the  fear  that  the  horse  generally  has  of 
man,  and  familiarizing  the  animal  with  his  master.  As  the 
horse  doubtless  experiences  a  certain  pleasure  from  this  hand- 
ling, he  will  soon  become  gentle  under  it,  and  show  very 
marked  attachment  to  his  keeper. 

The  Kind  of  a  Bit  to  Use  and  How  to  Use  It 

To  accustom  a  colt  to  the  bit,  you  should  use  a  large,  smooth 
snaffle,  so  as  not  to  hurt  his  mouth,  with  a  bar  at  each  side  to 
prevent  it  from  pulling  through  either  way.  This  should 
be  attached  to  the  headstall  of  your  bridle,  and  put  it  on  your 
colt  without  any  reins  to  it,  and  let  him  run  loose  in  a  large 
stable  or  shed  some  time,  until  he  becomes  a  little  used  to  the 
bit,  and  will  bear  it  without  trying  to  get  it  out  of  his  mouth. 
Repeat  this  several  times  before  you  do  anything  more  with  the 
colt ;  and  as  soon  as  he  will  bear  the  bit,  attach  a  single  rein  to 
it,  without  any  martingale.  You  should  also  have  a  halter  on 
your  colt,  or  a  bridle  made  after  the  fashion  of  a  halter,  with  a 
strap  to  it,  so  that  you  can  hold  or  lead  him  about  without 
pulling  much  on  the  bit. 

Farmers  often  put  bitting  harness  on  a  colt  the  first  thing 
they  do  to  him,  buckling  it  on  as  tight  as  they  can  draw  it,  to 
make  him  carry  his  head  high,  and  then  turn  him  out  in  a  lot 
to  run  half  a  day  at  a  time.  This  is  one  of  the  very  worst  pun- 
ishments they  can  inflict  on  a  colt,  and  is  very  injurious  to  a 
young  horse  that  has  been  used  to  running  in  pasture  with  his 
head  down.  I  have  seen  colts  so  injured  in  this  way  that  they 
never  got  over  it. 

A  horse  should  be  well  accustomed  to  the  bit  before  you  put 
on  the  bitting  harness,  and  when  you  first  bit  him  you  should 
only  rein  his  head  up  to  the  point  where  he  naturally  holds  it, 
let  that  point  be  high  or  low ;  he  will  soon  learn  that  he  cannot 
lower  his  head,  and  that  raising  it  a  little  will  loosen  the  bit  in 


34  THE  HORSE 

his  mouth.  This  will  give  him  an  idea  of  raising  his  head  to 
loosen  the  bit,  and  then  you  can  draw  the  bitting  a  little 
tighter  every  time  you  put  it  on,  and  he  will  still  raise  his  head 
to  loosen  it.  By  this  means  you  will  gradually  get  his  head 
and  neck  in  the  position  you  want  him  to  carry  it,  and  give 
him  a  nice  and  graceful  carriage  without  hurting  him,  making 
him  mad,  or  causing  his  mouth  to  get  sore.  Horses  that  have 
their  heads  drawn  up  tightly,  should  not  have  the  bitting  on 
more  than  fiteen  minutes  at  a  time. 

How  to  Make  a  Bitting  Bridle  for  an  Unruly  Horse 

Take  the  Eureka  Bridle,  already  described,  and  fix  a  loop 
upon  the  other  end,  just  like  that  already  used  to  put  around 
the  jaw,  but  big  enough  to  go  over  the  head  and  fit  over  the 
neck,  rather  tight,  where  the  collar  is  worn.  Now  bring  your 
cord  forward,  put  through  the  mouth  from  the  off  side,  and 
bring  back  on  the  near  side  and  put  through  the  loop  around 
the  neck.  Pull  upon  this  cord,  and  the  head  will  be  drawn 
back  to  the  breast.  You  are  now  prepared  to  bit.  Simply  pull 
upon  the  cord  a  little,  which  will  draw  the  head  back  slightly ; 
after  holding  for  a  short  time,  render  loose ;  then  draw  up  a 
little  tighter,  and  so  repeat  for  four  or  five  times.  Then 
stop  bitting  and  repeat  at  some  future  time  till  you  have  the 
horse  entirely  under  your  control. 

How   to    Saddle   a    Colt 

Any  one  man  who  has  this  theory,  can  put  a  saddle  on  the 
wildest  horse  that  ever  grew,  without  any  help,  and  without 
scaring  him.  The  first  thing  will  be  to  tie  each  stirrup  strap 
into  a  loose  knot,  to  make  them  short  and  prevent  the  stirrups 
from  flying  about  and  hitting  him.  Then  double  up  the  skirts 
and  take  the  saddle  in  your  right  arm,  so  as  not  to  frighten 
him  with  it  when  you  approach.  When  you  get  to  him,  rub 
him  gently  a  few  times  with  your  hand,  then  raise  the  saddle 
very  slowly,  until  he  can  see  it,  and  smell,  and  feel  it  with  his 
nose.  Then  let  the  skirts  loose,  and  rub  it  very  gently  against 
his  neck  the  way  the  hair  lays,  letting  him  hear  the  rattle  of 
the  skirts  as  he  feels  them  against  him,  each  time  a  little  fur- 
ther backward,  and  finally  slip  it  over  on  his  back.  Shake  it 
a  little  with  your  hand,  and  in  less  than  five  minutes  you  can 
rattle  it  about  over  his  back  as  you  please,  and  pull  it  off  and 
throw  it  on  again,  without  his  paying  much  attention  to  it. 

As  soon  as  you  have  accustomed  him  to  the  saddle,  fasten 
the  girth.  Be  careful  how  you  do  this.  It  often  frightens  the 
colt  when  he  feels  the  girth  binding  him,  and  making  the 
saddle  fit  tight  on  his  back.      You  should  bring  up  the  girth 


THE   HORSE  .  35 

very  gently,  and  not  draw  it  too  tight  at  first,  jr.st  enough  to 
hold  the  saddle  on.  Move  him  a  little,  and  then  girth  it  as 
tight  as  you  choose,  and  he  will  not  mind  it. 

You  should  see  that  the  pad  of  your  saddle  is  all  right  be- 
fore you  put  it  on,  and  that  there  is  nothing  to  make  it  hurt 
him,  or  feel  unpleasant  to  his  back.  It  should  not  have  any 
loose  straps  on  the  back  part  of  it,  to  flap  about  and  scare  him. 
After  you  have  saddled  him  in  this  way,  take  a  switch  in  your 
right  hand  to  tap  him  up  with,  and  walk  about  in  the  stable  a 
few  times  with  your  right  arm  over  your  saddle,  taking  hold 
of  the  reins  on  each  side  of  his  neck  with  your  right  and  left 
hands,  thus  marching  him  about  in  the  stable  u::til  you  teach 
him  the  use  of  the  bridle  and  can  turn  him  about  in  any  di- 
rection, and  spot  him  by  a  gentle  pull  of  the  rein.  Always 
caress  him,  and  loose  the  reins  a  little  every  time  you  stop 
him. 

You  should  always  be  alone,  and  have  your  colt  in  some  light 
stable  or  shed  the  first  time  you  ride  him ;  the  loft  should  be 
high  so  that  you  can  sit  on  his  back  without  endangering  your 
head.  You  can  teach  him  more  in  two  hours'  time  in  a  stable 
of  this  kind,  than  you  could  in  two  weeks  in  the  common  way 
of  breaking  colts,  out  in  an  open  place.  If  you  follow  my 
course  of  treatment,  you  need  not  run  any  risk,  or  have  any 
trouble  in  riding  the  worst  kind  of  horse.  You  take  him  a 
step  at  a  time,  until  you  get  up  a  mutual  confidence  and  trust 
between  yourself  and  horse.  First  teach  him  to  lead  and  stand 
hitched ;  next  acquaint  him  with  the  saddle,  and  the  use  of  the 
bit ;  and  then  all  that  remains  is  to  get  on  him  without  scaring 
him,  and  you  can  ride  him  as  well  as  any  horse. 

How  to   Mount  a  Colt 

First  gentle  him  well  on  both  sides,  about  the  saddle  and  all 
over,  until  he  will  stand  still  without  holding,  and  is  not  afraid 
to  see  you  anywhere  about  him.  As  soon  as  you  have  him  well 
gentled,  get  a  small  block  about  one  foot  or  eighteen  inches  in 
height,  and  set  it  down  by  the  side  of  him,  about  where  you 
want  to  stand  and  mount  him ;  step  up  on  this,  raising  yourself 
very  gently.  Horses  notice  every  change  of  position  very 
closely,  and  if  you  were  to  step  up  suddenly  on  the  block,  it 
would  be  very  apt  to  scare  him ;  but  by  raising  yourself  grad- 
ualy  on  it,  he  will  see  you  without  being  frightened,  in  a  po- 
sition very  near  the  same  as  when  you  are  on  his  back.  As 
soon  as  he  will  bear  this  without  alarm,  untie  the  stirrup  strap 
next  to  you,  and  put  your  left  foot  in  the  stirrup,  and  stand 
square  over  it,  holding  your  knee  against  the  horse,  and  your 
toe  out,  so  as  to  touch  him  under  the  fore-shoulder  with  the 
toe  of  your  boot.      Place  your  right  hand  on  the  front  of  the 


26  THE  HORSE 

saddle,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of  you,  taking  hold  of  a  por- 
tion of  the  mane  and  reins  (they  hang  loosely  over  his  neck), 
with  your  left  hand  then  gradually  bear  your  weight  on  the 
stirrup  and  on  your  right  hand,  until  the  horse  feels  your 
whole  weight  on  the  stirrup ;  repeat  this  several  times,  each 
time  raising  yourself  a  little  higher  from  the  block,  until  he 
will  allow  you  to  raise  your  leg  over  his  croup,  and  place 
yourself  in  the  saddle.  Another,  and  in  some  cases  a  better 
way  of  mounting,  is  to  press  the  palm  of  your  right  hand 
on  the  off-side  of  the  saddle,  and  as  you  rise  lean  your 
weight  on  it.  By  this  means  you  can  mount  with  the  girths 
loose,  or  without  any  girths  at  all. 

There  are  three  great  advantages  in  having  a  block  to 
mount  from.  First,  a  sudden  change  of  position  is  very  apt 
to  frighten  a  young  horse  that  has  never  been  handled ;  he  will 
allow  you  to  walk  to  him,  and  stand  by  his  side  without  scar- 
ing at  you,  because  you  have  gentled  him  to  that  position ;  but 
if  you  get  down  on  your  hands  and  knees  and  crawl  towards 
him,  he  will  be  very  much  frightened;  and  upon  the  same 
principle,  he  would  frighten  at  your  new  position  if  you  had 
the  power  to  hold  yourself  over  his  back  without  touching  him. 
Then,  the  first  great  advantage  of  the  block  is  to  gradually 
gentle  him  to  that  new  position  in  which  he  will  see  you  when 
you  ride  him.  Secondly,  by  the  process  of  holding  your  weight 
in  the  stirrups,  and  on  your  hand,  you  can  gradually  accustom 
him  to  your  weight,  so  as  not  to  frighten  him  by  having  him 
to  feel  it  all  at  once.  And,  in  the  third  place,  the  block  ele- 
vates you  so,  that  you  will  not  have  to  make  a  spring  in  order  to 
get  on  the  horse's  back,  but  from  it  you  can  gradually  raise 
yourself  into  the  saddle.  When  you  take  these  precautions, 
there  is  no  horse  so  wild  but  that  you  can  mount  him  without 
making  him  jump.  I  have  tried  it  on  the  worst  horses  that  can 
be  found,  and  have  never  failed  in  any  case.  When  mounting, 
your  horse  should  always  stand  without  being  held.  A  horse 
is  never  well  broke  when  he  has  to  be  held  with  a  tight  rein 
when  mounting;  and  a  colt  is  never  so  safe  to  mount  as  when 
you  see  that  assurance  of  confidence  and  absence  of  fear,  which 
cause  him  to  stand  wihtout  holding. 

How  to   Ride  a  Colt 

When  you  want  a  colt  to  start,  do  not  touch  him  on  the  side 
with  your  heel,  or  do  anything  to  frighten  and  make  him  jump. 
At  once  speak  to  him  kindly,  and  if  he  does  not  start,  pull  him 
a  little  to  the  left  until  he  does  so,  then  let  him  walk  off  slowly 
with  the  reins  loose.  Walk  him  around  in  the  stable  a  few 
times  until  he  gets  used  to  the  bit,  you  can  turn  him  about  in 
every  direction  and  stop  him  as  you  please.      It  will  be  well  to 


THE  HORSE  37 

get  on  and  off  a  good  many  times  until  he  gets  perfectly  used 
to  it  before  you  take  him  out  of  the  stable.  After  you  have 
trained  him  in  this  way,  v»rhich  should  not  take  more  than  two 
or  three  hours,  you  can  ride  him  anywhere  you  choose  without 
ever  having  him  jump  o"  make  an  effort  to  throw  you. 

When  you  first  take  him  out  of  the  stable,  be  very  gentle 
with  him,  as  he  will  feel  a  little  more  at  liberty  to  jump  or  run, 
and  be  easier  frightened  than  he  was  while  in  the  stable;  but 
will  nevertheless  find  him  pretty  well  broke,  and  will  be  able 
to  manage  him  without  trouble  or  danger. 

When  you  first  mount  a  colt,  take  a  little  the  shortest  hold 
on  the  left  rein,  so  that  if  anything  frightens  him,  you  can 
prevent  him  from  jumping  by  pulling  his  head  round  to  you. 
This  operation  of  pulling  a  horse's  head  round  against  his  side 
will  prevent  him  from  jumping  ahead,  rearing  up,  or  running 
away.  If  he  is  stubborn  and  will  not  go,  you  can  make  him 
move  by  pulling  his  head  around  to  one  side,  when  whipping 
him  would  have  no  effect.  Turning  him  around  a  few  times 
will  make  him  dizzy,  and  then  by  letting  him  have  his  head 
straight,  and  giving  him  a  little  touch  with  the  whip,  he  will 
go  along  without  any  trouble. 

Never  use  martingales  on  a  colt  when  you  first  drive  him 
every  movement  of  the  hand  should  go  right  to  the  bit  in  the 
direction  in  which  it  is  applied  to  the  reins,  without  a  martin- 
gale to  change  the  direction  of  the  force  applied.  You  can 
guide  the  colt  much  better  without  it,  and  teach  him  the  use 
of  the  bit  in  much  less  time.  Besides,  martingales  would  pre- 
vent you  from  pulling  his  head  round  if  he  should  try  to 
jump. 

After  your  colt  has  been  ridden  until  he  is  gentle  and  well 
accustomed  to  the  bit,  you  may  find  it  an  advantage,  if  he 
carries  his  head  too  high  or  his  nose  too  far  out,  to  put  martin- 
gales on  him. 

You  should  be  careful  not  to  ride  your  colt  so  far  at  first  as 
to  heat,  worry,  or  tire  him.  Get  off  as  soon  as  you  see  he  is  a 
little  fatigued ;  gentle  him  and  let  him  rest ;  this  will  make  him 
kind  to  you,  and  prevent  him  getting  stubborn  or  mad. 

Foot  Strap,  and  How  to  Use  It 

Take  a  common  strap  or  rope  about  the  size  of  the  Eureka 
Bridle.  The  Eureka  bridle  will  do  by  untying  one  of  the  loops. 
Fasten  the  end  untied  carefully  to  the  forward  foot,  below  the 
fetlock.  Pass  the  other  end  over  the  bellyband  of  the  harness 
and  carry  it  back  on  the  left  side  to  the  sulky  over  the  hold- 
back strap  of  the  breechen,  and  hold  as  a  third  rein  in  your 
hand.     You  have  in  this  strap  or  cord,  connected  with  the  foot 


38  THE  HORSE 

in  this  way,  a  means  of  control,  with  which  you  can  almost  as 
easily  as  if  a  plaything,  control  a  horse  while  moving  in  the 
harness,  and  embodies  one  of  the  most  valuable  and  effective 
means  of  controlling  a  horse  in  harness  yet  demonstrated.  If 
the  horse  attempts  to  run  away,  simply  pulling  upon  your 
strap  throws  him  instantly  upon  three  legs,  and  he  has  to  stop. 
If  he  attempts  to  run  back,  the  same  remedy  stops  him.  If  he 
attempts  to  kick,  you  attract  his  attention  forward  instantly, 
and  at  the  same  time  make  it  impossible  for  him  to  kick. 

How  to  Prevent  a  Horse  Running  Away 

Put  on  the  foot  strap,  and  when  he  attempts  to  run  take  up 
his  foot,  make  him  run,  and  tripping  every  time  he  will  not 
stop  instantly  at  the  word  "Whoa."  Should  he  be  of  the  ex- 
tremely wilful  character,  he  may  run  on  three  legs.  If  you 
mistrust  so,  attach  another  strap  to  the  opposite  foot.  Then 
make  him  run,  and  if  he  will  not  run  for  the  taking  up  the 
second,  which  will  destroy  his  confidence  at  once,  when  one 
strap  will  answer  just  as  well.  Make  your  lesson  thorough,  so 
that  the  horse  will  stop  every  time  you  call  "whoa." 

Although  we  have  given  a  powerful  means  of  coercion  and  of 
impressing  the  horse  of  his  inability  to  resist  the  will  of  man, 
still  practical  and  thorough  as  are  those  means,  they  are  but  of 
little  account  if  not  used  with  prudence  and  judgment. 

How  to   Moke  a   Horse  Lie  Down 

Everything  we  want  to  teach  the  horse  must  be  commenced 
hi  such  a  way  as  to  give  him  an  idea  of  what  we  want  him  to  do, 
and  then  be  repeated  till  he  learns  it  perfectly.  To  make  a 
horse  lie  down,  bend  his  left  fore-leg  and  slip  a  loop  over  it,  so 
that  he  cannot  let  it  down.  Then  put  a  surcingle  around  his 
body,  and  fasten  one  end  of  a  long  strap  around  the  other  fore- 
leg, just  above  the  hoof.  Place  the  other  end  under  the  be- 
fore-described surcingle,  so  as  to  keep  the  strap  in  the  right 
direction ;  take  a  short  hold  of  it  with  your  right  hand ;  stand 
on  the  left  side  of  the  horse;  grasp  the  bit  in  your  left  hand 
pull  steadily  on  the  strap  with  your  right;  bear  against  his 
shoulder  till  you  cause  him  to  move.  As  soon  as  he  lifts  his 
weight,  your  pulling  will  raise  the  other  foot,  and  he  will  have 
to  come  on  his  knees.  Keep  the  strap  tight  in  your  hand,  so 
<hat  he  cannot  straighten  his  leg  if  he  rises  up.  Hold  him  in 
this  position,  and  turn  his  head  towards  you ;  bear  against  his 
side  with  your  shoulder,  not  hard,  but  with  a  steady,  equal 
pressure,  and  in  about  ten  minutes  he  will  lie  down.  As  soon 
as  he  lies  down,  he  will  be  completely  conquered,  and  you  can 


THE  HORSE  39 

handle  him  as  you  please.  Take  off  the  straps,  and  straighten 
out  his  legs ;  rub  him  lightly  about  the  face  and  neck  with  your 
hand  the  way  the  hair  lies ;  handle  all  his  legs,  and  after  he  has 
lain  ten  or  twenty  miinutes,  let  him  get  up  again.  After  rest- 
ing him  a  short  time,  make  him  lie  down  as  before.  Repeat 
the  operation  three  or  four  times,  which  will  be  sufficient  for 
one  lesson.  Give  him  two  lessons  a  day,  and  when  you  have 
given  him  four  lessons,  he  will  lie  down  by  taking  hold  of  one 
foot.  As  soon  as  he  is  well  broken  to  lie  down  in  this  way,  tap 
him  on  the  opposite  leg  with  a  stick  when  you  take  hold  of  his 
foot,  and  in  a  few  days  he  will  lie  down  from  the  mere  motion 
of  the  stick. 

Kicking   in   Stall 

To  cure  a  horse  of  this  habit  put  on  the  saddle  part  of  a  car- 
riage harness,  and  buckle  on  tightly.  Then  take  a  short  strap, 
with  a  ring  attached,  and  buckle  around  the  forward  foot  be- 
low the  fetlock.  To  this  short  strap  attach  another  strap,  which 
bring  up  and  pass  through  the  turret;  then  return  to  the  foot 
and  run  through  the  ring  in  the  short  strap.  Then  pass  over 
the  bellyband  and  tie  to  the  hind  leg,  below  the  fetlock.  With 
this  attachment  on  each  side,  the  moment  the  horse  kicks  he 
pulls  his  feet  from  under  and  trips  himself  upon  his  knees, 
which  he  will  be  very  careful  not  to  do  but  a  few  times. 

i^ow  to  Tame  a  Horse  with  Vicious  Habits 

Having  given  full  instructions  relative  to  system  of  dealing 
with  young  colts,  I  will  now  proceed  to  detail  the  plan  of  op- 
perations  for  taming  and  subduing  wild  or  vicious  horses. 
The  principles  of  this  method  are  the  same  as  those  in  man- 
agement of  colts — kindness  and  gentleness — but  the  practice 
differs.  When  you  desire  to  subdue  a  horse  that  is  very  wild, 
or  has  a  vicious  disposition,  take  up  one  fore-foot  and  bend 
his  knee  till  liis  hoof  is  bottom  upwards,  and  nearly  touch- 
ing his  body ;  then  slip  a  loop  over  his  knee,  and  shove  it  up 
until  it  comes  above  the  pastern-joint,  to  keep  it  up,  being 
careful  to  draw  the  loop  together  between  the  hoof  and  pas- 
tern-joint with  a  second  strap  of  some  kind  to  prevent  the  loop 
from  slipping  down  and  coming  off.  This  will  leave  the  horse 
standing  on  three  legs ;  you  can  now  handle  him  as  you  wish, 
for  it  is  utterly  impossible  for  him  to  kick  in  this  position. 
There  is  something  in  this  operation  of  taking  up  one  foot,  that 
conquers  a  horse  quicker  and  better  than  anything  else  you 
can  do  to  him;  and  there  is  no  process  in  the  world  equal  to 
it  to  break  a  kicking  horse,  for  by  conquering  one  member 
you  conquer,  to  a  great  extent,  the  whole  horse. 


40  THE  HORSE 

You  can  do  anything  you  wish  with  the  horse  in  this  condi- 
tion, as  when  he  becomes  convinced  of  his  incapacity  to  cope 
with  man,  he  wlil  abandon  all  antagonistic  demonstrations,  and 
become  willing  to  obey,  and  be  generally  docile.  Operate  on 
your  horse  in  this  manner  as  often  as  the  occasion  requires, 
and  you  will  soon  find  him  as  gentle  as  his  nature  will  permit 
him  to  be.  By  these  means  the  most  vicious,  uneasy,  unruly, 
or  fretful  horse  may  be  cured,  though  it  depends  upon  the  age 
and  disposition  of  the  animal  how  long  it  will  take  to  make  him 
amiable.  When  you  first  fasten  up  a  horse's  foot,  he  will  some- 
times get  very  mad,  and  strike  with  his  knee,  and  try  every  pos- 
sible way  to  get  it  down;  but  as  he  cannot  do  that  he  will 
soon  give  up. 

Conquering  a  horse  in  this  manner  is  better  than  anything 
else  you  could  do,  and  leaves  him  without  any  possible  danger 
of  hurting  himself  or  you  either ;  for  after  you  have  tied  up  his 
foot  you  can  sit  down  and  look  at  him  until  he  gives  up.  When 
you  find  he  is  conquered,  go  to  him,  let  down  his  foot,  rub  his 
leg  with  your  hand,  caress  him,  and  let  him  rest  a  few  minutes; 
then  put  it  up  again.  Repeat  this  a  few  times,  always  putting 
up  the  same  foot,  and  he  will  soon  learn  to  travel  on  three  legs 
so  that  you  can  drive  him  some  distance.  As  soon  as  he  gets  a 
little  used  to  this  way  of  traveling,  put  on  your  harness  and 
hitch  him  to  a  sulky.  If  he  is  the  worst  kicking  horse  that  ev- 
er raised  a  foot,  you  need  not  be  fearful  of  his  doing  any  dam- 
age while  he  has  one  foot  up ;  for  he  cannot  kick,  neither  can  he 
run  fast  enough  to  do  anly  harm.  And  if  he  is  the  wildest 
horse  that  ever  had  harness  on,  and  has  run  away  every  time  he 
has  been  harnessed,  you  can  now  hitch  him  to  a  sulky  and 
drive  him  as  you  please.  If  he  wants  to  run,  you  can  let  him 
have  the  lines,  and  the  whip  too,  with  perfect  safety ;  for  he 
can  go  but  a  slow  gait  on  three  legs,  and  will  soon  be  tired  and 
ready  to  stop ;  only  hold  him  enough  to  guide  him  in  the  right 
direction,  and  he  will  soon  be  tired  and  willing  to  stop  at  the 
word.  Thus  you  will  eflfectually  cure  him  at  once  of  any  fur- 
ther notion  of  running  off. 

Kicking  horses  have  always  been  the  dread  of  everybody ; 
you  always  hear  men  say,  when  they  speak  about  a  bad  horse, 
"I  don't  care  what  he  does,  so  he  don't  kick."  This  new  mode 
is  an  effectual  cure  for  that  worst  of  all  habits.  There  are  plen- 
ty of  ways  by  which  you  can  hitch  a  kicking  horse  and  force 
him  to  go,  though  he  kicks  all  the  time ;  but  this  does  not  have 
any  good  effect  towards  breaking  him,  for  we  know  that  horses 
kick  because  they  are  afraid  of  what  is  behind  them,  and  when 
they  kick  against  it  and  it  hurts  them  they  only  kick  harder; 
and  this  will  hurt  them  still  more  and  make  them  remember 
the  scrape  much  longer,  and  make  it  still  more  difficult  to  per- 


THE  HORSE  41 

suade  them  to  have  any  confidence  in  anything  dragging  behind 
them  ever  after.  But  by  this  new  method  you  can  harness  them 
to  a  ratthng  sulky,  plow,  wagon,  or  anything  else  in  its  worst 
shape.  They  may  be  frightened  at  first,  but  cannot  kick  or  do 
anything  to  hurt  themselves,  and  will  soon  find  that  you  do 
not  intend  to  hurt  them,  and  then  they  will  not  care  anything 
more  about  it.  You  can  then  let  down  the  leg  and  drive  along 
gently  without  any  further  trouble.  By  this  new  process  a 
bad  kicking  horse  can  be  learned  to  go  gentle  in  harness  in  a 
few  hours'  time. 

How   to   Cure   Bad   Kickers 

For  extremely  bad  kickers  or  horses  bad  to  shoe,  the  follow- 
ing method  wlil  be  found  effectual.  Put  on  a  common  rope  or 
strap  halter,  with  a  hitching  rope  or  strap  about  twice  as  long 
as  the  animal's  body  Have  round  the  body  a  common  rope  or 
surcingle.  Then  pass  this  rope  or  strap  between  the  fore-legs 
over  the  surcingle,  back  around  the  hind  feet,  below  the  fetlocks 
and  forward  over  the  surcingle  between  the  legs,  and  tie  short 
into  the  halter  beneath  the  jaws.  Now  make  the  horse  kick  and 
you  will  find  that  he  reproves  himself  in  the  most  severe  man- 
ner, and  in  a  short  time  will  submit  unconditionally.  Care 
should  be  taken  against  chafing  the  foot  by  the  action  of  the 
strap  or  rope  around  the  fetlocks.  If  you  can  attach  a  little 
strap  around  each  foot,  with  rings  in  them,  through  which  run 
strap  or  rope  from  the  head  instead  of  around  the  feet,  horses 
extremely  bad  to  kick  when  handled  about  the  feet,  or  to  be 
shod,  yield  readily  to  this  mode  of  treatment.  Always  after  a 
horse  has  submitted  he  should  be  treated  in  a  kind  and  gentle 
manner.  For  driving  in  harness,  attach  to  a  common  halter- 
head-stall  a  strap  about  six  feet  long,  over  which  put  a  two  inch 
ring,  then  tie  the  end  of  this  strap  back  into  the  halter.  Now 
pass  this  double  strap  down  between  the  fore-legs,  so  that  the 
ring  will  extend  just  back  of  the  belly  band,  then  buckle  round 
each  hind  foot  below  the  fetlocks,  short  straps  with  rings  at- 
tached, to  these  rings  attach  a  rope  which  is  passed  through  the 
ring  upon  the  halter,  just  enough  to  enable  the  horse  to  stand 
naturally.  In  this  condition  it  will  be  seen  the  horse  has  suffi- 
cient freedom  to  walk  and  trot  but  the  moment  he  attempts  to 
kick,  he  reproves  himself  by  the  attachment  to  the  head. 

How  to   Hitch  a  Horse  to   a  Sulky 

Lead  the  horse  to  and  around  the  sulky ;  let  him  look  at  it, 
touch  it  with  his  nose,  and  stand  by  it  until  he  does  not  care 
for  it;  then  pull  the  shafts  a  little  to  the  left,  and  stand  your 
horse  in  front  of  the  off  wheel.      Let  some  one  stand  on  the 


42  THE  HORSE 

right  side  of  the  horse  and  hold  him  by  the  bit,  while  you  stand 
on  the  left  side  facing  the  sulky.  This  will  keep  him  straight. 
Run  your  left  hand  back  and  let  it  rest  on  his  hip,  and  lay  hold 
on  the  shafts  with  your  right,  bringing  them  up  very  gently  to 
the  left  hand,  which  still  remains  stationary.  Do  not  let  any- 
thing but  your  arm  touch  his  back,  and  as  soon  as  you  have  the 
shafts  square  over  him,  let  the  person  on  the  opposite  side  take 
hold  of  one  of  them,  and  lower  them  very  gently  to  the  shaft 
bearers.  Be  very  slow  and  deliberate  hitching ;  the  longer 
time  you  take,  the  better  as  a  general  thing.  When  you  have 
the  shafts  placed,  shake  them  slightly,  so  that  he  will  feel  them 
against  each  side.  As  soon  as  he  will  bear  them  without  scar- 
ing, fasten  your  braces,  etc.,  and  start  him  along  very  slowly. 
Let  one  man  lead  the  horse  to  keep  him  gentle,  while  the  other 
gradually  works  with  the  lines  till  he  can  get  behind  and  drive 
him.  After  you  have  driven  him  in  this  way  a  short  distance, 
you  can  get  into  the  sulky,  and  all  will  go  right.  It  is  very  im- 
portant to  have  your  horse  go  gently  when  you  first  hitch  him. 
After  you  have  walked  him  awhile,  there  is  not  half  so  much 
danger  of  scaring.  Men  do  very  wrong  to  jump  up  behind  a 
horse  to  drive  him  as  soon  as  they  have  him  hitched.  There 
are  too  many  things  for  him  to  comprehend  all  at  once.  The 
shafts,  the  lines  the  harness,  and  the  rattling  of  the  sulky,  all 
tend  to  scare  him,  and  he  must  be  made  familiar  with  them  by 
degrees.  If  your  horse  is  very  wild,  I  would  advise  you  to  put 
one  foot  up  the  first  time  you  drive  him. 

To   Train    Horses   for   the    Chaise 

It  will  not  require  a  very  vivid  imagination  for  those  that 
use  the  chaise  much,  to  know  that  there  is  a  great  difference  in 
the  motion  of  the  chaise ;  and  what  makes  the  difference  ?  It  is 
the  gait  of  the  horses ;  and  those  who  would  purchase  a  good 
chaise  horse,  must  look  for  a  short  gaited  one.  A  long  gaited 
horse  gives  an  unpleasant  motion  to  the  chaise.  Now  all  horses 
of  good  action  will  make  a  good  chaise  horse  if  you  shorten 
their  gait.  To  do  this,  you  must  use  a  net.  This  net  is  like  a 
breast  collar ;  it  must  be  two  feet  or  two  and  a  half  and  must 
now  be  fastened  to  the  collar  and  harness,  and  worn  long, 
reaching  to  the  knees ;  the  cords  in  the  fringe  to  this  must  be 
about  four  inches  apart,  and  on  each  cord  there  must  be  four 
balls  of  one  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter. 

There  must  be  a  similar  net  on  the  breaching,  reaching  round 
the  flank  and  meeting  the  front  one ;  this  net  must  hang  below 
the  gambrils ;  then  use  a  string  of  smaller  balls  on  the  fore 
feet,  these  to  be  one  inch  in  diameter.  They  will  effectually 
shorten  the  gait.  You  should  be  careful  in  the  first  exercise 
after  the  putting  on  of  the  net.      Drive  or  lead  the  horse  around 


THE  HORSE  43 

after  the  harness  and  net  are  on,  before  putting  him  to  chaise. 
After  a  few  days  practice,  you  will  have  a  fine  chaise  horse. 
Some  of  the  best  chaise  horses  have  become  so  from  having 
sore  feet,  which  made  them  step  short.  If  you  will  attend  to 
the  remarks  on  shoeing,  and  take  care  of  the  foot  otherwise, 
your  horses  will  never  have  contracted  feet. 

To   Train    a    Horse   to    Stand   When   You    Are 
Getting   Into  a  Carriage 

There  are  many  horses  that  are  very  gentle  after  starting, 
but  that  will  not  stand  to  let  more  than  one  get  in;  they  will 
then  rear  up  and  start  very  suddenly,  and,  if  stopped,  they  be- 
come stubborn,  and  refuse  to  start  when  called  on.  People 
usually  punish  them  with  the  whip,  or  by  kicking  them,  some- 
times in  the  belly,  which  is  very  dangerous,  as  they  have  thus 
been  ruptured.  Now,  with  such  a  horse  as  this,  you  should 
commence  in  this  way — after  he  is  hitched,  caress  him  about 
the  head,  then  take  hold  of  the  reins,  and  put  your  foot  on  the 
step,  and  shake  the  carriage ;  if  he  starts,  pull  gradually  on 
the  reins,  and  at  the  same  time,  speak  low,  'Whoa  my  boy  V  or 
something  like  it.  Then  approach  his  head,  and  give  him  a 
piece  of  apple,  caress  him  on  the  head,  between  the  eyes,  and 
on  the  nose  and  neck ;  continue  this  kind  of  treatment  a  few 
minutes,  and  when  you  get  in  don't  you  allow  him  to  start  oflf 
in  a  hurry — walk  him  off.  After  a  few  repetitions  of  this  exer- 
cise he  will  be  perfectly  submissive. 

Halter    Pulling 

It  is  a  very  easy  matter  to  break  up  this  bad  habit.  Put  on 
the  Eureka  Bridle,  and  train  the  horse  about  until  he  will  come 
to  you  readily  when  you  pull  upon  him  a  little  sideways. 
Simply  repeat  this,  gradually  a  little  more  on  a  line  with  his 
body  at  each  repetition,  until  he  will  yield  as  readily  at  being 
pulled  forward  as  sideways.  Then  tie  a  strap,  or  a  piece  of 
rope  around  the  body  where  the  harness  saddle  rests.  Now 
lead  the  horse  to  his  manger  or  to  a  post,  run  the  halter  strap 
through  the  ring  or  hole  and  pass  back  between  the  fore-legs 
over  the  strap  or  cord  tied  around  the  body,  and  tie  to  the 
hind  leg  below  the  fetlock.  If  your  halter  strap  is  not  long 
enough,  splice  a  piece  to  it.  Your  horse  so  fastened,  step  for- 
ward to  his  head  and  make  him  pull.  Of  course  he  will  go 
back  with  a  rush,  but  the  moment  he  attempts  going  back,  the 
halter  strap  pulls  directly  upon  the  hind  leg,  which  not  only 
disconcerts,  but  makes  it  impossible  for  him  to  pull.  The  most 
halter  pullers  will  not  pull  two  or  three  times  when  so  hitched 
but  success  in  this  as  well  as  all  other  cases  depends  much  on 
the  prudence  and  good  judgment  used  in  managing  the  case. 


44  THE  HORSE 

How  to   Manage  Balky   Horses 

Horses  know  nothing  about  balking  until  they  are  forced  into 
it  by  very  bad  management.  When  a  horse  balks  in  harness,  it  is 
generally  from  some  mismanagement,  excitement,  confusion, 
or  from  not  knowing  how  to  pull,  but  seldom  from  any  unwil- 
lingness to  perform  all  that  he  understands.  High-spirited 
free-going  horses  are  the  most  subject  to  balking,  and  only  so 
because  drivers  do  not  properly  understand  how  to  manage 
this  kind.  A  free  horse  in  a  team  may  be  so  anxious  to  go, 
that  when  he  hears  the  word  he  will  start  with  a  jump,  which 
will  not  move  the  load,  but  give  him  so  severe  a  jerk  on  the 
shoulders  that  he  will  fly  back  and  stop  the  other  horse.  The 
teamster  will  continue  his  driving  without  any  any  cessation,  and 
by  the  time  he  has  the  slow  horse  started  again,  he  will  find 
that  the  free  horse  has  made  another  jump,  and  again  flown 
back.  And  now  he  has  them  badly  balked,  and  so  confused, 
that  neither  of  them  knows  what  is  the  matter,  or  how  to  start 
the  load.  Next  will  come  the  slashing  and  cracking  of  the 
whip,  and  hallooing  of  the  driver,  till  something  is  broken,  or 
he  is  through  with  his  course  of  treatment.  But  what  a  mis- 
take the  driver  commits  by  whipping  his  horse  for  this  act ! 
Reason  nad  common  sense  should  teach  him  that  the  horse 
was  willing  and  anxious  to  go,  but  did  not  know  how  to  start 
the  load.  And  should  he  whip  him  for  that?  If  so,  he  should 
whip  again  for  not  knowing  how  to  talk.  A  man  that  wants 
to  act  with  reason  should  not  fly  into  a  passion,  but  should 
always  think  before  he  strikes.  It  takes  a  steady  pressure 
against  the  collar  to  move  a  load,  and  you  cannot  expect  him 
to  act  with  a  steady,  determined  purpose  while  you  are  whip- 
ping him.  There  is  hardly  one  balking  horse  in  five  hundred 
that  will  pull  truly  from  whipping  ;it  is  only  adding  fuel  to 
fire,  and  will  make  him  more  liable  to  balk  another  time.  You 
always  see  horses  that  have  been  balked  a  few  times,  turn  their 
heads  and  look  back  as  soon  as  they  are  a  little  frustrated.  This 
is  because  they  have  been  whipped,  and  are  afraid  of  what  is 
behind  them.  This  is  an  invariable  rule  with  balky  horses, 
just  as  much  as  it  is  for  them  to  look  around  at  their  sides 
when  they  have  the  bots ;  in  either  case  they  are  deserving  of 
the  same  sympathy,  and  the  same  kind  of  rational  treatment. 

When  your  horse  balks,  or  is  a  little  excited,  or  if  he  wants 
to  start  quickly,  or  looks  around  and  don't  want  to  go,  there  is 
something  wrong,  and  he  needs  kind  treatment  immediately. 
Caress  him  kindly,  and  if  he  don't  understand  at  once  what 
you  want  him  to  do,  he  will  not  be  so  much  excited  as  to  jump 
and  break  things,  and  do  everything  wrong  through  fear.  As 
long  as  you  are  calm,  and  can  keep  down  excitement  of  the 


THE  HORSE  45 

horse,  there  are  ten  chances  to  have  him  understand  j-'ou, 
where  there  would  not  be  one  under  harsh  treatment ;  and  then 
the  Httle  flare  up  would  not  carry  with  it  any  unfavorable  re- 
collections, and  he  would  soon  forget  all  about  it,  and  learn  to 
pull  true.  Almost  every  wrong  act  the  horse  commits  is  from 
mismanagement,  fear  or  excitement ;  one  harsh  word  will  so 
excite  a  nervous  horse  as  to  increase  his  pulse  ten  beats  in  a 
minute. 

Almost  any  team,  when  first  balked,  will  start  kindly  if  you 
let  them  stand  five  or  ten  minutes,  as  though  there  was  nothing 
wrong,  and  then  speak  to  them  with  a  steady  voice,  and  turn 
them  a  little  to  the  right  or  left  so  as  to  get  them  both  in  mo- 
tion before  they  feel  the  pinch  of  the  load.  But  if  you  want 
to  start  along  a  team  that  you  are  not  driving  yourself,  that 
lias  been  balked,  fooled,  and  whipped  for  some  time,  go  to 
them  and  hang  the  lines  on  their  hames,  or  fasten  them  to  the 
wagon,  so  that  they  will  be  perfectly  loose ;  make  the  driver 
and  spectators,  if  there  are  any,  stand  off  some  distance  to  one 
side,  so  as  not  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  horses ;  unloose 
their  check  reins,  so  that  they  can  get  their  heads  down  if  they 
choose;  let  them  stand  a  few  minutes  in  this  condition,  until 
you  can  see  that  they  are  a  little  composed.  While  they  are 
standing  you  should  be  about  their  heads  gentling  them ;  it 
will  make  them  a  little  more  kind,  and  the  spectators  will  think 
you  are  doing  something  that  they  do  not  understand,  and  will 
not  learn  the  secret.  When  you  have  them  ready  to  start, 
stand  before  them,  and  as  you  seldom  have  but  one  balky  horse 
in  a  team,  get  as  near  in  front  of  him  as  you  can,  and  if  he  is 
too  fast  for  the  other  horse,  let  his  nose  come  against  your 
breast ;  this  will  keep  him  steady,  for  he  will  go  slow  rather 
than  run  on  you ;  turn  them  gently  to  the  right,  with  the  wagon ; 
have  it  stand  in  a  favorable  position  for  starting  out,  letting 
them  pull  on  the  traces  as  far  as  the  tongue  will  let  them  go; 
stop  them  with  a  kind  word,  gentle  them  a  little,  and  turn 
them  back  to  the  left,  by  the  same  process.  You  will  have 
them  under  your  control  by  this  time,  and  as  you  turn  them 
again  to  the  right,  steady  them  in  the  collar,  and  you  can  take 
them  where  you  please. 

There  is  a  quicker  process  that  will  generally  start  a  balky 
horse,  but  not  so  sure.  Stand  him  a  little  ahead,  so  that  his 
shoulder  will  be  against  the  collar,  and  then  take  up  one  of  his 
fore-feet  in  your  hand,  and  let  the  driver  start  them,  and  he 
will  go  right  along.  If  you  want  to  break  a  horse  from  balking 
that  has  long  been  in  that  habit,  you  ought  to  set  a  day  apart 
for  that  purpose.  Put  him  by  the  side  of  some  steady  horse, 
have  check  lines  on  them ;  tie  up  all  the  traces  and  straps,  so 
that  there  will  be  nothing  to  excite  them  ;  do  not  rein  them  up, 


46  THE  HORSE 

but  let  them  have  their  heads  loose.  Walk  them  about  to 
gather  as  slowly  and  lazily  as  possible;  stop  often  and  go  up 
to  the  balky  horse  and  gentle  him,  but  keep  him  just  as  quiet 
as  you  can.  He  will  soon  learn  to  start  off  at  the  word,  and 
stop  whenever  you  tell  him. 

As  soon  as  he  performs  right,  hitch  him  to  an  empty  wagon. 
It  would  be  well  to  shorten  the  stay  chain  behind  the  steady 
horse,  so  that  if  it  is  necessary  he  can  take  the  weight  of  the 
wagon  the  first  time  you  start  them.  Do  not  drive  but  a  few 
rods  at  first;  watch  your  balky  horse  closely,  and  if  you  see 
that  he  is  getting  excited,  stop  him  before  he  stops  of  his  own 
accord,  caress  him  a  little,  and  start  again.  As  soon  as  they 
go  well,  drive  them  over  a  small  hill  a  few  times,  and  then  over 
a  large  one,  occasionally  adding  a  little  load.  This  process 
will  make  any  horse  t-ue  to  pull. 

Advice  to  Those  Who  Hire  Horses 

It  will  be  for  your  interest,  reader,  to  use  all  precautions  to 
prevent  a  horse  from  becoming  sick  while  in  your  hands.  This 
can  be  done  by  adhereing  to  certain  rules  which  I  will  now  note 
down. 

When  you  leave  the  stable  drive  slow  for  a  few  miles  unless 
you  know  how  much  the  horse  has  been  fed.  If  he  has  just 
finished  his  meal  it  is  very  necessary  that  he  should  be  driven 
at  a  moderate  pace  on  the  start.  If  he  had  eaten  a  few  hours 
before  the  precaution  will  be  necessary.  When  you  water 
your  horse  never  give  over  two  quarts,  and  that  once  in  three 
hours.  Look  at  his  mouth — if  it  is  moist  with  saliva,  he  does 
not  need  watering.  If  the  mouth  is  dry  and  if  tepid  water  is 
at  hand,  wash  out  the  nostrils  and  mouth  with  it,  if  no  tepid 
water  is  at  hand  use  cold,  but  warm  water  would  cause  the 
saliva  to  exude,  relieving  the  horse  by  keeping  the  mouth  moist 
afterwards. 

If  you  are  on  a  journey  stop  at  11  a.  m.  and  let  your  horse 
stand  without  any  food  for  a  half  or  one  whole  hour,  then  give 
about  one  gallon  of  water,  and  let  him  stand  ten  minutes 
when  he  may  be  given  three  quarts  of  oats,  or  five  ears  of 
good  bright  corn,  or  three  pints  of  shelled  corn.  Let  him 
stand  after  eating,  two  or  three  hours,  if  you  can;  then  you 
may  put  him  on  a  brisk  trot,  without  any  danger  of  causing 
disease.  I  should  rather  have  a  horse  driven  seven  miles  an 
hour,  treated  in  this  way,  than  four,  if  started  off  directly 
after  eating.  By  watering  after  feeding,  and  then  driving  off, 
gases  are  generated  on  the  stomach,  and  give  colic,  or  set  the 
bots  to  work  in  the  membrane  of  the  stomach. 

Again,  if  the  horse  is  warm  when  you  stop,  be  careful  not 
to  stand  him  in  a  current  of  air ;  he  might  take  a  disease  in 


THE  HORSE  47 

ten  minutes  that  would  carry  him  off;  if  in  very  warm 
weather,  he  had  better  stand  in  the  sun  than  in  a  draught 
of  air.  If  in  very  cold  weather,  either  stable  him  or  clothe 
him  when  you  stop,  to  keep  the  cold  air  from  closing  the  pores 
of  the  skin.  If  you  are  compelled  to  stop  in  the  wind,  always 
face  the  wind,  then  the  air  blows  the  way  the  hair  lays.  If  in 
the  winter  in  a  northern  climate,  never  allow  a  snowball  to 
remain  in  the  foot,  especially  if  he  has  been  driven  fast  and  is 
warm.  The  coffin  muscle  is  relaxed  by  heat,  and  the  close 
proximity  of  snow  would  cool  off  the  foot  so  suddenly  that  the 
muscle  would  contract,  and  in  a  few  days  the  hoof  would 
shrink  to  the  contraction  and  make  him  lame. 

Always  be  cautious  to  keep  the  feet  from  cold  water  when 
the  horse  is  warm,  and  any  sudden  contact  of  cold  with  hot 
blood,  either  in  the  body  or  legs,  would  be  dangerous.  These 
precautions  should  be  taken  either  in  riding  or  driving.  If 
you  drive  through  water  when  the  horse  is  warm,  give  exercise 
enough  to  keep  up  the  circulation,  not  to  allow  the  blood  to  be 
chilled  in  the  veins.  If  you  adhere  to  these  rules,  you  will  not 
be  likely  to  have  a  horse  injured  by  your  management. 

On  Choking  as  a  Means  of  Subduing  a  Horse 

Choking  is  another  method  of  conquering  a  skittish,  stub- 
born or  refractory  horse.  It  is  resorted  to  in  cases  where  the 
measures  before  described  fail  to  produce  the  desired  effect. 
The  principles  on  which  the  plan  of  choking  are  based,  are, 
that  you  must  make  a  powerful  appeal  to  the  intelligence  of 
the  animal  by  physical  means  before  you  can  subdue  him. 
Now  we  must  know  that  most  animals,  in  fighting,  seize  each 
other  by  the  throat,  and  that  a  dog  thus  held  by  his  antagon- 
ist for  a  few  minutes,  on  being  released,  is  often  so  thoroughly 
cowed  that  no  human  artifice  can  again  induce  him  to  resume 
the  unequal  contest.  It  is,  then,  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
choking  will  have  a  similar  effect  on  the  horse.  When  it  can 
be  done  without  injuring  the  animal,  it  is  an  easy  mode  of 
subduing  him,  for  by  its  operation  he  becomes  docile,  and  will 
thereafter  receive  any  instruction  which  he  can  be  made  to  un- 
dertake. Teaching  the  horse  by  this  means  to  lie  down  at  our 
bidding,  tends  to  keep  him  permanently  gentle  towards  man, 
for  it  is  a  perpetual  reminder  of  his  subdued  condition. 

It  requires  a  deal  of  practice  to  tame  a  horse  successfully  by 
choking;  also  a  nice  judgment  to  know  when  he  is  choked  suf- 
ficiently, as  there  is  a  bare  possibility  that  he  might  get  more 
than  would  be  good  for  him.  We  advise  persons  not  perfectly 
familiar  with  a  horse,  to  resort  rather  to  the  strapping  and 


48  THE  HORSE 

throwlng-down  process,  unless  the  animal  to  be  operated  upon 
is  so  vicious  and  intractable  that  he  cannot  be  cured  by  it. 

To  Make  Hopse$  Perfectly  Safe  For    Family  Use 

For  a  family  hrose,  we  should  select  one  with  a  full,  prom- 
inent eye,  and  a  broad  space  between  them,  full  forehead, 
ears  straight  and  pointed ;  when  in  action  the  ear  should  be  in 
motion,  working  back  and  forth,  thus  showing  that  he  knows 
what  is  transpiring  around  him.  He  should  have  a  long,  thin 
neck,  and  a  full  trumpet  nostril.  A  horse  of  these  points  is 
not  apt  to  tire  on  the  road,  for  they  indicate  good  blood. 

By  giving  the  animal  to  understand  that  we  are  his  friend 
and  protector,  he  will  feel  that  he  is  safe  and  have  confidence 
in  us.  To  assure  him  of  this  we  must  caress  him  on  the  head 
and  neck,  and  talk  softly  to  him ;  then  if  you  have  something 
he  is  very  fond  of — by  feeding  him  with  it  we  gain  his  sym- 
pathy and  confidence,  and  he  will  remember  us  and  our  kind- 
ness to  him.  To  us  this  is  most  reasonable.  So  long  as  he  is 
treated  kindly  he  will  be  kind  and  gentle  himself  to  every  one 
handling  him.  If  he  should  frighten  at  any  new  object,  by 
speaking  gently,  "So  ho,  my  boy!"  several  times  over,  it  as- 
sures him  at  once  that  he  is  safe.  When  your  horses  are  har- 
nessed to  the  carriage,  and  they  wish  to  start  before  you  are 
ready,  do  not  jerk  them,  or  speak  cross,  but  go  to  their  heads 
and  caress  and  soothe  them,  and  when  you  get  in,  draw  the 
reins  up  carefully,  and  talk  kindly  to  them,  and  allow  them  to 
walk  off  slowly;  in  a  few  days,  with  such  treatment,  your 
horses  will  be  perfectly  tractable  and  gentle.  A  full  blooded 
horse  is  as  sensitive  as  a  well  bred  man,  and  you  must  not 
hilloa  to  him  as  you  might  to  a  hog.  This  you  may  not  be- 
lieve, but  it  is  so.  You  must  never  use  the  whip,  except  when 
the  horse  knows  what  and  how  to  do,  and  will  not  do  it,  or  is 
lazy,  and  requires  the  lash  to  increase  the  speed.  Adhere  to 
the  principle  of  kindness,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  have  a  well 
trained  family  horse. 

On  the  Rearing  of  Colts 

If  a  fine  colt  is  desired  we  must  breed  to  a  fine  horse  thor- 
ough blooded. 

The  colt  should  not  be  allowed  to  shrink  for  two  years  at 
least. 

If  the  dam  has  not  sufficient  milk  to  keep  him  plump,  he 
must  be  fed  on  cow's  milk.  Feed  him  through  the  winter  on 
oatmeal  dry  and  give  him  cow's  milk  to  drink.  If  a  colt  is 
allowed  to  shrink  during  the  first  two  years,  he  will  never  fill 


THE  HORSE  49 

out  again  as  full   and  plump — his   fine  points   will   be  unde- 
veloped. 

The  colt  should  not  be  kept  close  to  a  stable,  but  allowed  to 
run  in  and  out  at  pleasure.  He  should  not  be  allowed  to 
stand  on  a  plank  floor  at  all.  In  the  spring  as  soon  as  the 
grass  is  good  he  should  be  turned  out  to  pasture. 

On  the  Training  of  Horses  for  Trotting 

The  horse  should  be  in  good  flesh.  He  should  be  driven 
moderately,  with  walking  exercise  every  morning  of  about  five 
miles.  Before  going  into  quarters,  give  him  a  brush,  for  one 
hundred  yards,  at  the  top  of  his  speed,  and  one  or  two  miles 
of  moderate  driving,  sufficient  to  sweat  him ;  then  rub  dry  with 
rubbing  rags,  light  rubbing  is  the  best,  just  enough  to  dry  the 
hair.  Hard  rubbing  on  the  bones  or  cords  causes  soreness. 
Rub  the  flesh  and  muscles  well  to  harden  them.  When  driving 
to  sweat,  put  on  two  thick  woollen  blankets,  and  drive  at  full 
speed  two  miles.  Then  turn  down  the  hood,  or  neck  cover, 
and  scrape  the  head  and  neck  well,  and  rub  dry;  then  cover 
dry,  and  continue  the  same  over  the  whole  body,  rubbing 
lightly  and  only  enough  to  dry  the  hair.  Then  put  on  nice 
dry  covering,  and  let  him  stand.  Sweating  often  in  this  way 
will  weaken;  it  should  be  done  but  seldom. 

Their  food  and  drink  should  be  of  the  purest  kind ;  sift  their 
oats  free  from  all  dust,  and  dust  their  hay  too.  Give  about  a 
handful  at  a  feed,  morning  and  noon,  and  about  twice  that  at 
night.  From  twelve  to  sixteen  quarts  of  oats  would  be  a  great 
plenty  per  day — twelve  would  be  plenty  for  the  majority. 
Give  one  gallon  of  water  in  the  morning.  The  same  at  noon. 
At  night,  give  two  gallons  of  water,  and  a  peck  of  oats,  with 
treble  the  quantity  of  hay.  You  should  not  exercise  any  horse 
on  a  full  stomach,  for  then  fast  work  hinders  digestion.  Grain 
lying  undigested  in  the  stomach,  generates  a  gas  by  fermenta- 
tion, which  sets  the  bots  at  work,  and  gives  colic.  Indigestion 
is  the  cause  of  many  diseases,  and  can  be  avoided  by  adhering 
to  the  directions  for  feeding,  watering  and  driving,  given  in 
the  first  part  of  this  book.  If  he  is  bound  up,  and  you  wish 
to  physic,  give  him  bran  mashes. 

On  Horse  Blinds,  or  Blinkers 

All  my  experience  with,  and  observation  of  horses,  proves 
clearly  to  me  that  blinkers  should  never  be  used,  and  that  the 
sight  of  the  horse  for  many  reasons,  should  not  be  interfered 
with  in  any  way.  Horses  are  only  fearful  of  objects  they  do 
not  understand,  or  are  not  familiar  with,  and  the  eye  is  one  of 


50  THE  HORSE 

the  principal  mediums  by  which  this  understanding  and  this 
lamiliarity  are  brought  about.  The  horse,  on  account  of  his 
very  amiable  nature,  can  be  made  in  the  course  of  time  to  bear 
almost  anything,  in  any  shape,  but  there  is  a  quicker  process  of 
reaching  his  intelligence  than  that  of  wearing  it  into  him 
through  his  skin  and  bones.  However  wild  or  nervous  a  horse 
may  be,  he  can  be  taught  in  a  very  short  time  to  understand 
and  not  to  fear  any  object,  however  frightful  in  appearance. 
Horses  can  be  broken  in  less  time,  and  better  without  blinkers ; 
but  horses  that  have  always  worn  them  will  notice  the  sudden 
change,  and  must  be  treated  carefully  the  first  drive.  After 
that  they  will  drive  better  without  the  blinkers  than  with.  I 
have  proved  by  my  own  experiments  that  a  horse  broken  with- 
out blinkers  can  be  driven  past  any  omnibus,  cab  or  carriage, 
on  a  parallel  line  as  close  as  it  is  possible  for  him  to  go,  with- 
out ever  wavering  or  showing  any  disposition  to  dodge.  I 
have  not  in  the  last  eight  or  ten  years,  constantly  handling 
horses,  both  wild  and  nervous,  ever  put  blinkers  on  any  of 
them  and  in  no  case  have  they  ever  shied  at  passing  objects. 

The  horse's  eye  is  the  life  and  beauty  of  the  animal,  as  well 
as  the  index  of  his  emotions.  It  tells  the  driver  in  the  most 
impressive  manner,  what  the  horse's  feelings  are.  By  it  he  can 
tell  the  first  approach  of  fear  in  time  to  meet  any  difficulty; 
he  can  tell  if  he  is  happy  or  sad,  hungry  or  weary.  The 
horse,  too,  when  permitted  to  see,  uses  his  eyes  with  great 
judgment.  He  sees  better  than  we  do.  He  can  measure  dis- 
tances with  his  eyes  better  than  we  can,  and  if  allowed  the  free 
use  of  them,  would  often  save  himself,  by  the  quickness  of  his 
sight,  from  collisions  when  the  driver  would  fail  to  do  so  by  a 
timely  pull  of  the  reins.  It  would  also  save  many  accidents  to 
pedestrians  in  the  streets,  as  no  horse  will  run  into  any  person 
or  anything  he  can  see.  Blinkers  are  rapidly  going  out  of 
use  in  the  United  States,  and  I  have  yet  to  find  the  man  who 
having  once  left  them  off,  could  be  persuaded  to  put  them  on 
again.  They  are  an  unnecessary  and  injurious  incumbrance 
to  the  horse,  and  in  years  hence  will  be  a  thing  to  be  read  of 
as  one  of  the  follies  happily  reformed  in  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury. 

Rules  to  be  Observed  in  the  Purchase  of  a  Horse 

When  about  to  purchase  a  horse,  examine  the  eyes  well. 
The  best  judges  are  sometimes  deceived  in  the  eyes  therefore 
you  cannot  be  too  careful.  Clearness  of  the  Eyes  is  a  sure  in- 
dication of  their  goodness ;  but  this  is  not  all  that  should  be 
attended  to;  the  eyelids,  eyebrows,  and  all  the  other  parts 
must  also  be  considered ;  for  many  horses  whose  eyes  appear 
clear  and  brilliant,  go  blind  at  seven  or  eight  years  old.      There- 


THE  HORSE  51 

fore  be  careful  to  observe  whether  the  parts  between  the  eye- 
lids and  the  eyebrows  are  free  from  bunches,  and  whether  the 
parts  round  the  under  eyelids  be  full,  or  swelled ;  for  these 
are  indications  that  the  eyes  will  not  last.  When  the  eyes  are 
remarkably  flat,  or  sunk  within  their  orbits,  it  is  a  bad  sign; 
also  when  they  look  dead  and  lifeless.  The  iris,  or  circle  that 
surrounds  the  sight  of  the  eye,  should  be  distinct,  and  of  a 
pale,  variegated,  cinnamon  color,  for  this  is  always  a  sure  sign 
of  a  good  eye,  and  it  adds  beauty  to  the  appearance  of  the 
animal. 

Next  examine  the  teeth,  as  you  would  not  wish  to  purchase 
an  old  horse,  nor  a  very  young  one  for  service. 

The  Feet  should  next  be  regarded ;  for  a  horse  with  bad  feet 
is  like  a  house  with  a  weak  foundation,  and  will  do  little  ser- 
vice. The  feet  should  be  smooth  and  tough,  of  a  middle  size, 
without  wrinkles,  and  neither  too  hard  and  brittle,  nor  too 
soft,  the  Heels  should  be  firm,  and  not  spongy  and  rotten;  the 
Frogs  horny  and  dry ;  the  soles  somewhat  hollow,  like  the  in- 
side of  a  dish  or  bowl.  Such  feet  will  never  disappoint  your 
expectations,  and  such  only  should  be  chosen. 

Particular  regard  should  be  had  to  the  Shoulders ;  they 
should  not  be  too  much  loaded,  for  a  horse  with  heavy  shoul- 
ders can  never  move  well ;  and  on  the  other  hand,  one  that 
has  very  thin  shoulders,  and  a  narrow  chest,  though  he  may 
move  briskly  so  long  as  he  is  sound,  yet  he  is  generally  weak, 
and  easily  lamed  in  the  shoulders  ;a  medium  should  therefore 
be  chosen. 

The  Body,  or  Carcass,  should  neither  be  too  small  nor  too 
large.  The  Back  should  be  straight,  or  have  only  a  moderate 
sinking  below  the  Withers ;  for  when  the  back  of  a  horse  is 
low,  or  higher  behind  than  before,  it  is  both  very  ugly  and  a 
sign  of  weakness.  The  back  should  also  be  a  proper  length. 
The  Ribs  should  be  large,  the  Flanks  smooth  and  full,  and  the 
Hind-parts,  or  uppermost  Haunches  not  higher  than  the  shoul- 
ders. When  the  horse  trots  before  you,  observe  if  his  haunches 
cover  his  fore-knees.  A  horse  with  a  short  hind-quarter  does 
not  look  well. 

The  next  thing  to  be  regarded  in  a  horse  is  his  Wind,  which 
may  be  easily  judged  of  by  the  motion  of  his  flanks.  A  broken 
winded  horse  also  pinches  in  his  flanks,  with  a  very  slow  mo- 
tion, and  drops  them  suddenly,  which  may  be  easily  per- 
ceived. Many  horses  breathe  thick  that  are  not  broken-winded 
indeed,  any  horse  will  in  foggy  weather,  or  if  foul  fed,  without 
sufficient  exercise ;  but  if  a  horse  has  been  in  good-keeping, 
and  had  proper  exercise,  and  yet  has  these  symptoms,  there  is 
some  defect  either  natural  or  accidental ;  such  as  a  narrow 
chest,  or  some  cold  that  has  affected  the  lungs. 


52  THE  HORSE 

There  are  other  particulars  that  should  be  observed  In  choos- 
ing a  horse.  If  his  Head  be  large  and  fleshy,  and  his  Neck 
thick  and  gross,  he  will  always  go  heavy  on  the  hand,  and 
therefore  such  should  never  be  chosen.  A  horse  that  has  his 
Heels  very  wide,  seldom  moves  well,  and  one  that  has  them 
too  near  will  chafe  and  cut  his  legs  by  crossing  them.  Fleshy- 
legged  horses  are  generally  subject  to  the  Grease,  and  other 
infirmities  of  that  kind,  and  therefore  should  not  be  chosen. 

The  Temper  of  a  horse  should  be  particularly  attended  to. 
Avoid  a  fearful  horse,  which  you  may  know  at  first  sight  by 
his  starting,  crouching,  or  creeping,  if  you  approach  him.  A 
hot  and  fretful  horse  is  also  to  be  avoided,  but  the  buyer  should 
be  careful  to  distinguish  between  a  hot,  fretful  horse  and  one 
that  is  eager  and  craving.  The  former  begins  to  fret  the  mo- 
ment he  is  out  of  the  stable,  and  continues  in  that  humor  till 
he  has  quite  fatigued  himself;  and  the  latter  only  endeavors 
to  be  foremost  in  the  field,  and  is  truly  valuable ;  he  has  those 
qualities  that  resemble  prudence  and  courage;  the  other  those 
of  intemperate  heat  and  rashness. 

A  horse  that  goes  with  his  fore-feet  low  is  very  apt  to 
stumble  and  there  are  some  that  go  so  near  the  ground  that  they 
stumble  most  on  even  roads  ;  and  the  dealers,  to  remedy  this, 
put  heavy  shoes  on  their  feet,  for  the  heavier  a  horse's  shoes  are 
the  higher  he  will  lift  his  feet.  Care  also  should  be  taken  that 
the  horse  does  not  cut  one  leg  with  the  other.  A  horse  that 
goes  near  the  ground  will  cut  the  low  side  of  the  fetlock  joint, 
but  one  that  goes  high  cuts  below  the  knee  which  is  called  the 
speedy  cut.  A  horse  that  lifts  his  feet  high  generally  trots 
fast,  but  is  not  the  easiest  for  the  rider.  Some  horses  cut  with 
the  spurn  of  the  foot,  and  some  with  the  heel ;  but  this  you 
may  soon  perceive  by  their  standing ;  for  if  a  horse  points  the 
front  of  his  foot  inward,  he  cuts  with  the  spurn,  and  if  out- 
ward, with  the  heel. 

These  few  instructions  may  be  of  use  in  purchasing  horses ; 
but  I  advise  every  one  to  get  some  experimental  knowledge  of 
them  before  he  trusts  to  his  own  judgment,  for  the  dealers 
have  so  many  arts  to  hide  the  defects  of  their  horses,  that  the 
best  judges  are  often  very  much  deceived. 

How  to  Tell  o  Horse's  Age  By  his  Teeth 

The  only  sure  way  of  telling  the  age  of  a  horse,  is  by  the 
teeth,  and  these  only  for  a  certain  time ;  after  which  time  there 
is  nothing  to  depend  on,  although  you  can  guess  very  near,  by 
the  front  teeth  of  his  upper  jaw,  until  he  is  about  twelve  or 
thirteen;  this,  with  the  face  of  the  horse,  and  some  other 
marks,  enables  one  experienced  in  horses  to  guess  pretty 
correctly. 


THE  HORSE    .  53 

There  are  six  teeth  above,  and  six  below,  in  the  fore  part  of 
the  horse's  mouth,  from  which  we  may  judge  of  his  age,  they 
are  called  gatherers.  When  a  colt  is  foaled,  he  has  no  teeth 
in  the  front  of  his  mouth.  In  a  few  days  two  come  in  the  up- 
per jaw,  and  two  below.  Again,  in  a  few  days,  four  more  ap- 
pear; but  the  corner  teeth  do  not  come  for  several  months — 
three  or  four.  These  twelve  teeth  remain  unchanged  in  the 
front  of  the  colt's  mouth,  until  he  is  two  or  two  and  a  half 
years  old,  when  he  begins  to  change  them  for  permanent  ones ; 
although  the  manner  in  which  he  has  been  fed  regulates,  in  a 
measure,  the  time  of  change. 

Until  he  is  in  his  eighth  year,  you  tell  his  age  by  the  front 
teeth  in  the  lower  jaw — so  we  will  only  speak  of  these.  At  first 
he  sheds  the  two  middle  teeth  of  the  six.  These  are  succeeded 
by  two  permanent,  or  horse  teeth,  of  a  deeper  color,  and 
stronger — and  grooved  or  fluted  from  top  to  bottom,  with  a 
black  cavity  in  the  centre.  He  is  now  about  three.  In  the 
latter  part  of  the  fourth  year,  the  teeth  on  each  side  of  the 
teeth  in  the  centre  undergoes  the  same  process,  and  he  be- 
comes possessed  of  four  horse  teeth  in  the  middle,  with  their 
natural  black  marks  in  the  centre,  and  one  colt's  tooth  only  on 
each  side.  He  next  sheds  his  corner  teeth.  When  he  has  their 
successors  his  mouth  is  full.  He  has  the  black  mark  now  in 
all  the  six  teeth,  and  is  five  years  old. 

After  a  horse  is  seventeen  or  eighteen,  the  grinders  wear 
down,  and  the  nippers  prevent  the  grinders  from  coming  to- 
gether, so  that  he  cannot  masticate  his  food  as  well  as  a  six 
year  old  horse. 

Weights  to  be  Carried  in  Trotting 

Weights  to  be  carried  by  every  trotting  horse  starting  for  a 
match,  purse  or  stake: 

Every  horse  shall  carry  one  hundred  and  forty-six  pounds; 
if  in  harness,  the  weight  of  the  sulky  and  harness  not  to  be 
considered.      Pacing  horses  liable  to  the  same  rule. 

Race  Distances 

A  distance  of  mile  heat— best  three  in  five— shall  be  one  hun- 
dred yards;  for  one  mile  heats  eighty  yards;  and  for  every 
additional  heat  an  additional  eighty  yards. 

The  time  between  heats  shall  be,  for  one  mile  twenty,  and 
for  every  additional  mile,  five  minutes. 

To  Put  Horses  in  Good  Condition 

They  need  good  care  and  clean  feed.  Do  not  use  condition 
powders,   or   such   medicines;   they   are   not   needed,   and  are 


54  THE  HORSE 

humbugs.  If  your  horse  is  hide-bound,  and  out  of  condition, 
give  him  a  good  purge  of  linseed  oil,  or  castor  oil — one  pint. 
Then  give  bran  mashes  morning  and  evening ;  he  will  soon 
regain  his  appetite,  and  will  be  all  right.  At  any  time  when 
your  horse  loses  his  appetite,  check  his  food,  and  give  a  mash. 
Give  as  little  medicine  as  possible.  By  this  treatment  you  will 
have  healthy  horses. 

To  Keep  Horses  Free  From  Disease 

The  stable  must  be  clean  and  well  ventilated.  There  is 
nothing  more  conductive  to  good  health  than  pure  air  and 
clean  food.  The  ceiling  of  the  stable  should  be  at  least  ten 
or  twelve  feet  high,  with  a  ventilating  box  at  the  head  four 
inches  square,  running  out  at  the  roof.  The  loft  should  be 
perfectly  tight,  so  that  the  breath  of  the  horse  cannot  rise 
and  mix  with  the  hay,  which  may  be  injured  both  in  taste  and 
wholesomeness.  It  is  a  bad  plan  to  put  hay  in  a  rack ;  the 
horse  breathes  on  it  and  makes  it  less  palatable  and  healthy. 
Feed  from  a  box  in  front,  and  but  little  at  a  time ;  he  will 
neither  waste  it  or  otherwise  injure  it.  The  ventilation  in  wall 
of  the  stable  should  be  as  high  up  as  possible  so  as  not  to 
injure  him  by  drafts  of  air,  from  which  he  should  always 
be  kept. 

Filthy  stables  cause  weak  eyes,  and  a  running  at  the  nose, 
in  many  instances.  The  decomposition  of  vegetable  matter, 
and  the  urine,  give  out  stimulating  and  unhealthy  vapors,  and 
a  strong  smell  of  hartshorn.  How  can  it  but  cause  inflamma- 
tion of  the  eyes  or  lung,  or  glanders  and  farcy?  Be  careful  to 
have  your  stables  so  the  urine  will  run  off,  but  don't  raise  the 
planking  much  higher  at  the  front  than  at  the  back,  for  this 
will  cause  a  strain  of  the  back  sinews,  and  lameness,  and 
thickening  up  of  the  same.  It  is  an  unnatural  way  for  man 
or  horse  to  stand. 

The  horse  stalls  should  have  holes  bored  in  the  planking, 
and  they  should  always  be  kept  open.  In  summer,  the  horse 
should  always,  if  he  stands  on  a  dirt  floor,  stand  on  straw,  or 
litter  of  some  kind ;  it  relieves  the  feet  in  stamping. 

It  is  very  injurious  to  keep  horses  in  a  dark  stable;  it  is 
bad  for  the  eyes,  and  many  horses  go  blind  from  this  cause. 
You  should  likewise  avoid  a  glaring  light,  or  straining  white 
walls.  Give  a  mellow  light,  with  clean  stabling,  clean  food, 
clean  litter,  and  all  will  be  well. 

How  to  Shoe  a  Horse 

If  we  examine  the  horse's  foot  while  in  his  natural  state  it 
will  be  found  almost  round,  and  very  elastic  at  the  heel.      The 


THE  HORSE  55 

frog,  broad,  plump,  and  of  a  soft  yielding  character;  the  com- 
missares,  open  and  well  defined,  and  the  sole  concave,  the  out- 
side of  the  crust,  from  the  heels  to  the  toe,  increased  from  a 
slight  level  to  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees.  Conse- 
quently as  the  hoof  grows,  it  becomes  wider  and  larger  in  pro- 
portion to  the  amount  of  horn  secreted,  and  the  narrower 
and  shorter  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  horn  cut  away 
from  the  ground  surface.  If  a  shoe  were  fitted  nicely  and  ac- 
urately  to  the  foot,  after  being  dressed  down  well,  it  would 
be  found  too  narrow  and  short  for  the  same  foot  after  the  lapse 
of  a  few  weeks.  Now,  if  any  unyielding  shoe  of  iron  is  nailed 
firmly  to  this  naturally  enlarged  and  elastic  hoof,  it  prevents 
its  natural  freedom  of  expansion  almost  wholly,  and  does  not, 
as  the  foot  grows  down,  allow  it  to  become  wider  at  the 
quarters,  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  of  horn  grown,  as 
before  being  shod ;  and  consequently  the  foot  changes,  from 
the  continued  effect  of  the  restraint,  from  an  almost  round, 
healthy  foot,  to  a  contracted  and  unhealthy  condition,  as  gen- 
erally seen  in  horses  shod  for  a  few  years.  The  principles 
which  should  govern  in  shoeing,  are  few  and  simple,  and  it 
is  surprising  that  a  matter  involving  such  serious  conse- 
quences, should  be  conducted  with  so  little  consideration. 
The  object  of  the  shoer  should  be,  in  trimming  and  prepar- 
ing the  hoof  for  the  shoe,  to  keep  the  foot  natural,  and  this 
involves : 

First. — The  cutting  away  of  any  undue  accumulation  of  horn 
affecting  in  the  least  its  health  and  freedom. 

Second. — To  carry  out  in  the  form  of  the  shoe,  that  of  the 
foot  as  nearly  as  possible. 

Third. — To  fit  and  fasten  the  shoe  to  the  foot  so  as  to  inter- 
fere least  with  its  heatlh  and  elasticity. 

The  object  in  preparing  the  foot  for  the  shoe  should  be  to 
remove  any  undue  accumulation  of  horn,  designed  to  prevent 
its  natural  bearing,  and  the  free,  healthy  action  of  its  parts, 
and  requires  the  cutting  away  of  about  the  proportion  contact 
with  the  ground  would  have  worn  off  or  so  much  as  had  grown 
since  being  shod  last.  If  the  shoes  had  been  on  a  month,  then 
the  proportion  of  horn  secreted  in  the  time  is  to  be  removed. 
If  on  two  months,  then  the  proportion  of  two  months  growth. 
No  definite  rule  can  be  given,  the  judgment  must  be  governed 
by  the  circumstances  of  the  case.  The  stronger  and  more 
rapid  the  growth  of  the  foot,  the  more  must  be  cut  away ;  and 
the  weaker  and  less  horn  produced,  the  less,  to  the  extreme  of 
simply  leveling  the  crust  a  little  the  better  to  conform  to  the 
shoe.  There  is  generally  a  far  more  rapid  growth  of  horn  at 
the  toe,  than  at  either  the  heels  or  the  quarters ;  more,  there- 
fore, will  require  to  be  taken  off  the  toe  than  off  the  other  parts. 


56  THE  HORSE 

Therefore  shorten  the  toe  and  lower  the  heels  until  you  suc- 
ceed in  bringing  down  the  bearing  surface  of  the  hoof,  upon 
the  shoe,  to  almost  a  level  with  the  live  horn  of  the  sole.  Be 
careful  to  make  the  heel  level. 

Having  lowered  the  crust  to  the  necessary  extent  with  the 
buttress  or  knife,  smooth  it  down  level  with  the  rasp.  The 
sole  and  frog  detach  the  old  horny  exfoliation  as  it  becomes 
superabundant.  The  sole,  therefore,  would  not  need  paring 
were  it  not  for  the  restraining  effect  of  the  shoe  upon  the  gen- 
eral functions  of  the  foot,  which  is  liable  to  prevent  such  de- 
tachment of  the  horn. 

When  this  is  the  case,  the  sole  should  be  properly  dressed 
out  with  an  English  shave,  the  end  of  which  is  shaped  like  an 
iron  used  at  sawmills  to  mark  and  measure  boards.  The  but- 
tress is  too  large  and  square  edged  to  dress  out  so  concave  a 
surface  properly,  and  unless  great  care  is  exercised  it  will  not 
only  penetrate  through  the  sole  in  some  places,  but  leave 
others  entirely  neglected.  While  a  good  workman  may  work 
well  with  almost  any  kind  of  tool,  such  have  also  the  facility 
of  adapting  tools  to  the  work.  A  horse's  foot  is  not  to  be 
hacked  and  cut  as  if  only  a  block  of  lifeless  wood,  and  if  even 
a  lifeless  machine,  what  care  would  be  found  necessary  to  pre- 
serve its  harmony  of  action  complete.  The  buttress  does  not 
seem  to  be  at  all  adapted  to  dressing  out  the  sole,  and  should 
not  be  used  for  that  purpose.  While  we  are  obliged  to  find 
fault  with  the  carelessness  of  blacksmiths  in  this  respect,  it  is 
with  the  spirit  of  kindness,  sensible  that  we  are  ourselves  only 
dull  pupils  in  the  work  of  reform,  and  perhaps  deserving  se- 
vere criticism. 

We  would  be  particular  also  in  impressing  the  necessity  of 
not  confounding  the  bars  with  the  substance  of  the  sole,  and 
cutitng  them  down  to  the  common  level  with  the  sole.  Any 
man  of  common  sense  can  see,  that  the  bearing  of  the  bars 
should  be  equal  to  the  outside  of  the  crest  upon  the  shoe,  and 
that  they  offer  a  decided  resistance  to  the  contraction  of  the 
heels.  The  cutting  away  of  the  bars,  to  give  the  heels  an  open 
appearance,  is  inexcusable,  and  should  never  be  done. 

In  a  natural,  healthy  condition,  the  frog  has  a  line  of  bear- 
ing with  the  hoof,  and  by  its  elastic  nature,  acts  as  a  safeguard 
to  the  delicate  machinery  of  the  foot  immediately  over  it,  and 
helps  to  preserve  the  foot  in  its  natural  state,  by  keeping  the 
heels  spread.  It  seems  to  be  wisely  intended  to  give  life  and 
health  to  the  feet.  Permitting  the  heels  to  grow  down,  with 
the  addition  of  high  heeled  shoes,  raises  the  frog  from  its  nat- 
ural position,  and  causes  it  to  shrink  and  harden,  and  bears  in 


THE  HORSE  57 

consequence  an  important  influence  in  setting  up  a  diseased 
action  that  usually  results  in  contraction  of  the  foot.  If  the 
heels  are  square  and  high  and  the  hoof  presents  rather  a  long, 
narrow  appearance,  and  is  hollow  on  the  bottom,  there  is  a 
state  of  contraction  going  on  and  you  must  not  hesitate  to  dress 
down  thoroughly.  Do  not  hesitate  because  the  foot  will  ap- 
pear small ;  cut  away  until  you  are  well  down  to  a  level  with 
live  horn  of  the  sole,  and  if  the  foot  is  weak,  use  the  same 
prudence  in  not  cutting  it  away  too  much.  The  shoer  must 
always  bear  in  mind  that  the  sole  must  not  rest  upon  the  shoe. 
The  sole,  when  not  clogged  with  old  horn,  acts  as  a  spring  to 
the  weight  of  the  horse,  and  if  it  rests  upon  the  shoe,  an  in- 
flammation may  be  caused  by  the  pressure  of  the  coffin  bone 
upon  the  sensitive  luminse,  which  is  liable  in  consequence  to 
be  so  bruised  as  to  cause  soreness  and  inflammation.  The  effect 
of  such  bruises  are  most  common  at  the  angle  of  the  inner 
heel,  where  the  descending  heel  of  the  coffin  bone,  forcibly 
pressing  the  soft,  sensitive  sole,  upon  the  horny  sole,  is  apt  to 
rupture  one  or  more  of  the  small  blood  vessels  of  the  delicate 
fleshy  substance  connecting  the  crust  to  the  coffin  bone  of  the 
part,  causing  red  spots  called  corns.  Let  the  foot  be  so  dressed 
down,  and  the  shoe  so  approximated,  that  the  bearing  will 
come  evenly  upon  the  crust  all  the  way  round,  without  the 
sole  touching  the  shoe.  This  requires  the  crust  to  be  dressed 
level,  and  although  well  down  to  the  live  horn  of  the  sole,  it 
should  always  be  left  a  little  higher.  The  corners  between  the 
bars  and  crust  should  be  well  pared  out,  so  that  there  is  no 
danger  of  the  sole  resting  upon  the  shoe. 

The  Shoe 

The  principal  object  should  be  to  have  the  shoe  so  formed 
as  to  size,  weight,  fitting  and  fastening,  as  to  combine  the 
most  advantages  of  protection,  and  preserves  the  natural  tread 
of  the  foot  the  best ;  in  weight  it  should  be  proportioned  to 
the  work  or  employment  of  the  horse.  If  the  horse  walks 
principally  upon  the  road,  his  shoes  should  be  rather  heavy. 
The  ground  surface  of  the  shoe  should  correspond  with  the 
ground  surface  of  the  foot  in  its  natural  state,  or  in  other 
*  words  it  must  have  a  concave  surface  corresponding  with  the 
concave  surface  of  the  foot.  The  nail  holes  should  be  punched 
coarse,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  web.  If  the  hind  shoe,  four 
on  the  side  and  well  forward ;  if  the  forward  shoe,  four  on  the 
outside,  and  two  or  three  well  forward  in  the  inside  toe,  as 
found  necessary  to  retain  the  shoe.  The  manner  of  fastening 
the  shoe  in  what  really  affects  the  foot ;  and  which  require  the 
most   especial   attention   in   shoeing. 


58  THE  HORSE 

Interfering   Shoes 

First  find  what  part  of  the  foot  hits  the  opposite  ankle  which 
you  can  do  by  wrapping  the  ankle  with  a  rag  nicely,  which 
color  with  some  kind  of  coloring  matter,  over  where  the  oppo- 
site foot  hits,  you  can  then  discover  by  driving  where  the  color 
adheres  and  what  portion  of  the  crust  hits  the  ankle.  Remove 
this  portion  and  have  the  shoes  well  under  the  foot,  but  care- 
fully fitted,  so  as  to  support  the  foot  safely  by  the  bearing  of 
the  bar  and  heel.  The  hoof  should  be  pared  lower  on  the 
outside,  to  turn  the  ankle,  that  the  other  hoof  may  pass  clear. 
Yet  if  the  inside  sole  is  not  dressed,  the  rim  soon  breaks,  and 
the  inside  is  found  to  be  actually  lower  than  the  outside.  Shoes 
to  prevent  interfering,  should  be  light  and  of  narrow  web,  on 
the  inside,  with  three  nail  holes  near  the  toe.  They  should 
be  straight  at  the  point  where  they  come  in  contact  with  the 
opposite  leg.  By  adhering  strictly  to  this  principle  of  paring 
the  foot,  and  fitting  and  fastening  of  the  shoe,  you  will  prevent 
a  recurrence  of  the  difficulty. 

Shoes,  to  prevent  over-reaching,  should  be  long,  and  for  the 
forward  feet,  heavy,  especially  at  the  heels ;  and  for  the  hind 
feet,  light,  with  heavy  toes.  The  hoof  should  be  well  pared 
at  the  toe. 

The   Foot  and   Its   Diseases 

The  crust,  or  wall,  is  that  part  which  is  seen  when  the  foot 
is  placed  upon  the  ground  and  reaches  from  the  hair  to  the 
ground.  It  is  deepest  in  front,  where  it  is  called  the  toe ; 
shallower  at  the  sides,  which  are  called  quarters,  and  of  least 
depth  behind  where  it  is  termed  the  heel,  it  is  placed  flat  upon 
the  ground,  but  ascends  obliquely  backward,  and  possesses 
different  degrees  of  obliquity  in  different  feet.  In  a  sound 
hoof,  the  proper  degree  of  standing  is  calculated  at  forty-five 
degrees,  or  the  fourth  part  of  a  semi-circle.  This  crust  is 
thicker  in  front,  being  about  half  an  inch,  and  at  the  quarters 
and  heel  is  very  much  thinner.  It  is  also  thinner  at  the  inner 
than  the  outer  quarter,  where  the  most  weight  is  thrown  upon. 
It  is  under  the  inner  splint  bone,  on  which  so  much  weight 
rests,  and  being  thinner,  it  is  able  to  expand  more — its  elas- 
ticity is  called  more  into  play,  and  concussion  and  injury  are 
avoided. 

On  account  of  its  thinness  and  the  additional  weight  which 
it  bears,  the  inner  heel  wears  away  quicker  than  the  outer — a 
circumstance  which  should  never  be  forgotten  by  the  smith. 
His  object  is  to  give  a  plain  and  level  bearing  to  the  whole  of 
the  crust. 

Thus  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  remove  but  very  little,  if  any 


THE  HORSE  59 

from  the  inner  heel,  as  it  has  worn  away  faster  than  the  out- 
side, from  the  greater  weight  it  bears,  which  would  cause 
corns  and  quarter  cracks,  and  even  slints,  the  concussions 
being  so  much  greater.  This  may  all  be  avoided  by  paying 
a  little  attention  when  shoeing. 

The  Frog 

In  the  place  between  the  bars,  and  exactly  filling  it,  is  the 
frog.  It  is  a  triangular  piece  of  horn  projecting  from  the  sole, 
almost  on  a  level  with  the  crust,  and  covering  and  defending  a 
soft  and  spongy  substance,  and  called  the  "sensible  frog."  It 
is  wide  at  the  heels,  and  above  the  shell  of  the  foot,  and  runs  to 
a  point  like  a  wedge.  This  is  to  keep  the  heel  apart,  and  pre- 
vent him  from  slipping.  It  will  adhere  to  the  ice  like  rubber. 
There  is  a  cleft,  commencing  at  the  back  and  running  nearly 
two  thirds  the  length  of  the  frog,  which  is  firmly  united  to  the 
sole,  but  of  a  nature  entirely  different  from  it,  being  a  soft, 
spongy  substance,  and  very  elastic.  It  never  can  be  bruised 
until  it  has  been  cut,  when  it  becomes  a  hard,  horny  substance 
and  by  treading  on  anything  solid  in  going  fast,  it  springs  or 
presses  on  the  sensitive  part  of  the  foot,  and  causes  corns.  Now, 
this  frog  should  never  be  cut  or  pared  in  the  least ;  let  it  look 
ever  so  ragged  it  is  then  healthy.  It  sheds  every  three  months ; 
but  if  the  knife  is  used,  it  is  more  or  less  injured. 

The  Sole 

This  is  the  inner  surface  of  the  foot,  and  is  both  concave  and 
elastic,  and  extends  from  the  crust  to  the  bars  and  frog.  It  is 
not  as  thick  as  the  crust.  Notwithstanding  its  situation,  there 
is  not  as  much  weight  thrown  on  it  as  there  is  on  the  crust; 
because  it  was  intended  to  expand,  in  order  to  prevent  con- 
cussion when  the  weight  was  thrown  upon  it.  It  is  thicker  at 
the  toe,  and  where  it  connects  with  the  crust.  The  principal 
weight  is  thrown  upon  the  toe,  by  the  coffin  bone  wedging  in. 
It  is  not  brittle,  in  health,  and  it  is  somewhat  hollow,  which 
gives  spring  to  it  and  lessens  the  shock  of  striking  the  ground 
when  in  rapid  motion;  for  if  the  sole  was  flat,  there  would  be 
no  spring  to  it,  and  it  would  be  bruised  by  sudden  contact 
with  the  ground.  Thus  you  see  that  by  cutting,  the  spring  of 
the  sole  is  injured  and  the  sole  itself  becomes  dry  and  hard, 
and  brittle.  But  if  never  touched,  it  retains  the  moisture, 
keeps  the  foot  from  shrinking,  and  keeps  it  healthy. 

The  Coffin   Bone 

Beneath  the  lower  pastern,  and  entirely  enclosed  in  the  hoof, 
is  the  proper  bone  of  the  foot — the  coffin  bone.    It  fills  about 


60  THE  HORSE 

one  half  of  the  fore  part  of  the  hoof,  to  which  it  is  fitted.  It  is 
light  and  spongy,  and  filled  with  numerous  holes,  through 
which  pass  the  blood-vessels  of  the  foot.  These  are  necessarily- 
numerous,  considering  the  important  and  various  secretions 
there  going  on;  and  the  circulation  could' not  be  kept  up  if 
these  vessels  did  not  run  through  the  substance  of  the  bone. 
The  holes  about  the  coffin  bone  carry  the  blood  to  the  little 
leaves  with  which  it  is  covered;  those  near  the  lower  part  go 
to  the  sole.  As  this  bone  is  enclosed  in  the  horny  box  of  the 
crust,  no  inconvenience  can  arise  from  an  outward  pressure :  for 
the  bone  allows  free  passage  to  the  blood,  and  protects  it  from 
every  obstruction. 

The  fore  part  of  the  coffin  bone,  besides  being  thus  perfor- 
ated, is  curiously  roughened,  for  the  attachment  of  numerous 
little  leaves.  On  its  upper  surface  is  a  concavity  for  the  head 
of  the  lower  pastern.  In  front  is  a  striking  prominence,  into 
which  is  inserted  the  extensor  tendon  of  the  foot.  At  the  back 
it  is  sloped  for  articulation  with  the  navicular  bone ;  and  more 
underneath  is  a  depression  for  the  reception  of  the  flexor  ten- 
don, continued  down  the  leg,  passing  over  the  navicular  bone, 
and  then  inserted  into  this  bone.  On  either  side  are  projec- 
tions, called  the  heels  of  the  coffin  bone,  and  the  bottom  is 
hollowed  to  match  the  internal  part  of  the  sole.  The  most  pe- 
culiar part  of  the  coffin  bone  is  the  production  of  numerous 
little  leaves  around  its  front  and  sides.  They  are  prolonga- 
tions of  the  thick  and  elastic  membrane  covering  the  coffin 
bone,  and  consist  of  cartilagenous  fleshy  plates  corresponding 
with  and  received  between  the  horny  leaves  that  line  the  in- 
side of  the  crust.  The  horny  leaves  are  secreted  from  or  pro- 
duced by  the  fleshy  ligaments,  and,  being  five  hundred  in 
number,  their  union  with  each  other  is  so  strong  that  they  are 
inseparable. 

When  the  animal  is  at  rest,  the  whole  weight  is  supported 
by  these  leaves,  and  not  by  the  sole.  It  is  the  contraction  of 
the  coffin  muscle  that  creates  so  much  pain  when  the  horse  is 
foundered.  The  foot  is  then  feverish,  the  blood  vessels  are 
filled  with  hot  blood,  and  the  foot  is  very  sensitive  to  the  touch 
of  the  hammer  or  any  jar  upon  the  crust.  The  elasticity  of 
the  sole  prevents  the  foot  from  being  bruised  when  in  violent 
action. 

Between  the  coffin  bone  and  horny  sole  is  the  sensible  sole, 
which  is  of  a  ligamentous  or  tendonous  nature,  well  supplied 
with  blood  vessels  and  with  nervous  fibres,  so  that  it  is  very 
sensitive.  A  small  stone  under  the  shoe  will  cause  great  in- 
flammation, and  corns  are  caused  by  the  same.  The  smith 
needs  to  use  great  care  in  setting  the  shoe. 


THE  HORSE  61 

Contracted   Feet 

Sometimes  only  one  foot  becomes  contracted;  this  may  be 
caused  in  a  cold  climate  by  leaving  a  snowball  in  the  bottom 
of  the  foot  after  the  horse  has  been  exercised  until  he  is  very 
warm.  The  coffin  muscle  is  then  relaxed  by  heat,  and  the 
snow  ball  cools  it  so  sudden  that  it  contracts.  In  a  few  days 
the  hoof  shrinks  to  the  muscle  thus  contracted,  leaving  a  ridge 
in  the  hoof. 

In  a  warm  climate,  it  may  be  caused  by  letting  a  horse  stand 
even  a  short  time,  in  cool  water,  after  exercising  and  heating 
the  blood.  If  you  wish  to  bathe  your  horse's  legs,  do  it  with 
warm  water,  always ;  then  you  avoid  all  danger,  and  leave  the 
limbs  soft  and  pliable. 

Also,  cutting  away  too  much  of  the  sole  of  the  foot,  deprives 
it  of  the  very  substance  which  holds  the  moisture  and  keeps 
the  foot  healthy.  Cutting  the  frog  makes  it  hard  and  horny, 
and  when  struck  hard  upon  a  stone  it  is  pressed  to  the  quick, 
causing  fever.     Both  practices  will  cause  contraction. 

Cure. — When  first  discovered,  bathe  the  legs  from  the  knee 
down,  in  hot  water;  do  this  twice  a  day  for  two  weeks,  every 
night  stuffing  the  feet  with  clay.  His  shoes  should  merely 
rest  on  the  rim  of  the  foot.  Never  use  a  shoe  with  a  swelled 
heel.  When  caused  by  cutting,  stuff  the  feet  with  clay  and 
use  the  concave  shoes.  Never  use  ointments  or  grease  of  any 
description  upon  the  outside  of  the  hoof,  as  they  close  the 
pores  and  create  fever,  without  removing  the  cause  of  the  dis- 
ease. 

Thrush 

This  is  a  very  disagreeable  discharge  of  offensive  matter  from 
the  cleft  of  the  frog,  by  which  pus  is  secreted  togther  with,  or 
instead  of  horn.  If  the  frog  is  sound,  the  cleft  sinks  but  a  lit- 
tle way  into  it ;  but  by  contraction  or  other  causes,  the  cleft 
will  penetrate  to  the  sensible  sole  within.  Through  this  fissure 
the  discharge  proceeds.  It  may  be  caused  by  bruises  or  filth. 
The  sinking  in  at  the  quarters  will  cause  the  horn  to  press  up- 
on the  frog,  or  cutting  the  frog  will  cause  it  to  become  hard 
and  horny.  It  can  readily  be  distinguished  from  any  other 
disease  by  the  offensive  smell ;  run  a  stick  or  blade  in  the  fis- 
sure, and  the  discharge  will  assure  you. 

Cure. — First  poultice  with  linseed  meal,  put  on  hot,  and  let 
it  remain  twelve  hours ;  then  use  a  paste  made  of  two  ounces  of 
blue  vitriol,  one  ounce  white  vitriol,  powdered  as  finely  as  pos- 
sible, mix  well  with  one  pound  of  tar  and  two  pounds  of  lard. 
Apply  this  in  the  cleft.  It  may  be  put  on  tow  and  pushed  in. 
Let  it  remain  twelve  hours ;  and  then  cleanse  out  with  soft  wat- 


62  THE  HORSE 

er  and  soap.  When  dry,  make  the  second  application;  also 
renew  the  poultices  at  night,  until  all  inflammation  dis- 
appears. 

If  you  wish  to  dry  it  up  quick  (which  I  do  not  approve), 
you  can  use  the  spirits  of  salt,  ten  or  fifteen  drops  at  a  time. 
(2.)  Cleanse  the  foot  out  well,  then  crowd  in  fine  salt  and  wash 
with  beef  brine.  But  in  all  cases  of  thrush,  first  use  poultices, 
to  relieve  the  inflammation.  A  carrot  poultice  is  good,  if  lin- 
seed is  not  convenient.  After  this,  stuff  the  foot  with  clay,  in 
dry  weather;  this  will  keep  it  cool  and  moist,  and  it  will 
also  make  it  less  liable  to  be  bruised.  The  horse  should 
take  physic  during  the  time,  to  cleanse  the  blood.  Use  Bar- 
badoes  aloes,  pulverized,  and  mixed  with  linseed  oil  sufficient 
to  make  into  balls.      Dose  one  ounce. 

Grease 

In  many  cases  swelled  leg,  although  distinct  from  grease, 
degenerate  into  it.  This  disease  is  inflammation  of  the  skin 
of  the  heel,  and  very  seldom  comes  on  the  fore  legs.  The  skin 
of  the  heel  has  a  peculiar  greasy  feeling,  and  when  inflamed, 
the  secretion  of  this  greasy  matter  is  stopped.  The  heels  be- 
come red,  dry  and  scurvy,  and  being  so  much  in  motion,  they 
very  soon  crack,  and  sometimes  ulceration  and  fungus  will  ex- 
tend over  the  whole  heel.  The  first  appearance  of  grease  is 
usually  a  dry  scurvy  state  of  the  skin  of  the  heel.  They  should 
be  washed  with  soap  and  water,  and  relieved  of  all  the  hard 
substance  that  they  can  by  soaking ;  then  wipe  dry,  and  sprinkle 
pulverized  verdigris;  this  will  dry  up.  But  when  the  heels 
are  badly  cracked,  and  ulceration  has  commenced,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  poultice  them  with  linseed  oil,  or,  if  not  at  hand, 
carrots  boiled  soft  and  mashed  fine ;  this  is  a  good  poultice 
for  any  inflamed  part. 

When  inflammation  and  pain  have  gone,  and  there  is  a  heal- 
thy discharge  of  matter,  dress  with  an  ointment  of  one  ounce 
of  rosin,  two  ounces  of  rosin,  two  ounces  of  honey  in  the  comb, 
two  ounces  of  lard,  and  one  ounce  of  caliman  powder;  this 
cools  and  heals  very  fast.  If  the  fungus  is  not  entirely  gone, 
wash  with  two  drachms  of  blue  vitriol  in  a  pint  of  water.  It 
is  well  to  give  a  mild  diuretic  every  third  day — one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  pulverized  rosin  in  a  ball  of  bran  mash.  Mash  the 
horse  while  treating  for  this.  Sassfras  tea  is  good  for  him. 
If  the  legs  swell  after  they  are  healed,  bandage  every  night, 
and  give  moderate  walking  exercise.  Give  a  slight  purge  of 
linseed  oil  or  Barbadoes  aloes. 

Another  Cure  or  Remedy  is: — Two  ounces  Flour  Sulphur, 
one-half  ounce  Verdigris.      Mix  and  apply  after  washing. 


THE  HORSE  63 

Cure  for  the  Grease  from  Internal  Causes : — If  the  horse  be 
full  of  flesh,  the  cure  must  be  begun  by  bleeding,  rowels,  and 
repeated  purging ;  after  which  two  ounces  of  the  following 
balls  should  be  given  every  other  day  for  some  time,  and  they 
will  work  by  urine  the  day  following:  4  oz.  of  Yellow  Resin, 
2  oz.  of  Salt  Prunel,  1  oz.  of  Oil  of  Juniper,  2  oz.  of  Salt  of 
Tartar,  8  oz.  of  Castile  Soap,  1  oz.  of  Camphor.  Put  these  into 
a  mortar  with  about  two  ounces  of  honey,  or  as  much  as  will 
make  them  into  balls,  and  they  will  carry  off  the  offending 
humors,  and  free  the  blood  from  its  noxious  qualities.  But  at 
the  same  time  that  these  internal  remedies  are  taken,  outward 
ones  should  not  be  omitted. 

Cure  for  Grape  Legs 

These  may  be  cured  on  their  first  appearance,  when  they 
are  in  the  bud,  by  laying  on  caustic,  or  corrosive  sublimate. 
When  the  swelling  is  abated,  make  the  following  into  a  salve 
to  dress  the  sores  with :  1  oz.  of  Blue  Stone  Vitriol,  in  powder 
2  oz.  of  White  Lead,  in  powder,  4  oz.  of  Honey.  Mix  these 
well  together,  and  lay  them  on  the  sores  with  tow,  to  heal 
them ;  but,  should  they  continue  foul,  and  not  frame  to  heal, 
mix  four  ounces  of  green  salve  and  four  ounces  of  .^Egyptia- 
cum  ointment  well  together,  and  lay  it  on  in  the  above  man- 
ner.    The  mixtures  will  both  heal  and  dry  up  the  sores. 

Founders,  How  Caused,  Etc. 

The  Chest  Founder  is  produced  by  violent  exercise  on  a  full 
stomach,  and  drinking  large  quantities  of  cold  branch  water ; 
by  the  use  of  mouldy  bran,  corn,  or  oats,  or  by  eating  large 
quantities  of  green  food,  such  as  oats,  wheat,  peas,  etc.,  while 
performing  hard  labor.  The  seat  of  the  disease  is  in  the  lungs ; 
the  heart  and  liver  are  also  considerably  enlarged,  inasmuch 
that  there  is  not  room,  for  them  to  perform  their  office  with 
ease.  The  liver,  lungs,  diaphragm,  and  surrounding  parts,  are 
all  covered  with  large  brown  spots,  and  are  much  inflamed. 

There  are  many  that  hold  that  a  horse  can  be  foundered 
with  grain.  This  is  not  so.  The  argument  given  is  that  they 
have  driven  horses  or  have  known  of  cases  where  the  horse  was 
driven  under  a  shed  and  fed  without  watering.  This  may  be 
so ;  but  that  is  no  argument ;  for  a  horse  may  be  driven  and 
stand  where  there  is  a  cold  blast  of  wind  that  would  chill  a 
horse  as  bad  as  water.  This  would  create  founder  as  well  as 
water;  anything  cold  would  create  contraction;  where,  on  the 
contrary,  grain  would  create  heat,  instead  of  cold,  and  heat 
would  relax;  so  that  argument  is  worth  naught.  I  will  not 
pretend  to  say  but  that  grain  would  injure  a  horse  when  hot. 
You  might  give  corn  meal  and  it  would  bake  in  the  maw,  and 


64  THE  HORSE 

there  would  be  no  passage ;  this  would  kill,  but  not  founder. 
You  are  well  aware  that  to  heat  a  tire,  then  place  it  over  the 
felly,  it  is  perfectly  loose,  but  when  you  put  on  cold  water,  it 
contracts  to  the  felly  and  strengthens  the  wheel.  So  you  will 
see  at  once  that  it  is  cold  that  causes  founder.  Cold  contracts 
and  heat  relaxes,  and  grain  would  create  heat. 

Cure. — When  the  horse  is  foundered  take  one  and  a  half  or 
two  gallons  of  blood  from  the  neck  vein ;  then  give,  as  a  physic 
six  drachms  of  Barbadoes  aloes,  dissolved  or  in  balls.  Cover 
the  horse  over ;  then  commence  bathing  with  as  hot  water  as 
you  can  use.  Keep  this  up  for  an  hour  at  least.  Then  stretch 
an  old  pantaloon  leg  over  each  of  his  fore  legs,  bind  it  around 
the  hoof,  then  fill  in  with  hot  boiled  oats ;  give  as  a  drink  sas- 
safras tea,  made  from  the  root,  and  give  bran  mashes,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  pulverized  rosin.  He  should  have  a  mash 
once  a  day  for  three  or  four  days.     This  will  cure  him. 

But  in  case  of  founders  of  long  standing,  or  even  if  the  hoof 
has  shrunk  to  the  contraction  of  the  muscle,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  treat  it  somewhat  differently.  The  bleeding  should  be 
omitted,  the  legs  bathed  twice  a  day,  and  the  feet  should  be 
poulticed  with  flaxseed  meal  three  times  a  week,  at  night,  or 
in  day  time  if  he  is  not  at  work.  If  he  could  run  out  to  a 
marshy  pasture,  it  would  not  be  necessary  to  poultice.  But 
he  must  have  something  to  act  on  the  blood.  Take  of  digitalis 
four  drachms,  emetic  tartar  four  drachms,  nitre  six  drachms ; 
divide  this  into  two  doses,  and  give  one  in  three  days.  Between 
the  days  that  this  is  given  give  bran  mashes  mixed  with  sas- 
safras tea.  This  physic  may  be  given  once  in  every  three 
weeks,  with  the  feet  always  to  be  kept  moist.  It  will  take  three 
months  to  effect  a  cure.  When  of  long  standing,  the  muscles 
of  the  shoulder  sometimes  contract,  as  in  sweeney.  In  this 
case  a  seaton  of  from  nine  to  fifteen  inches  must  be  used,  ac- 
cording to  the  contraction. 

The  Navicular  Bone 

This  is  placed  at  the  head  of  the  coffin  bone,  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  lower  pastern,  and  is  shaped  like  a  wedge.  Its  office  is 
to  protect  the  coffin-joint  at  the  back  part.  The  frog  getting 
dry  and  feverish,  would  allow  the  ligaments  to  be  bruised,  and 
cause  lameness — another  reason  why  the  foot  needs  great 
care. 

Quarter  Crack 

For  this,  pare  with  a  sharp  knife  from  the  hair  down,  taking 
away  the  whole  back  part  of  the  hoof  down  to  the  quick ;  then 
pare  the  other  down  thin ;   then  set  your  shoes  only  so  far 


THE  HORSE  65 

as  the  hoof  runs.  By  this  means  the  shoe  cannot  spring 
down  upon  the  heel.  The  hoof  will  then  grow  down  firm 
and  sound. 

Heaves — Reasons  Why  if  Is  Not  in  tiie  Lungs 

First. — If  the  disease  was  in  the  lungs,  it  would  create  in- 
flammation, and  have  the  same  effect  as  inflammation  of  the 
lungs  by  cold.  The  horse  would  be  weak  and  drooping  with- 
out appetite,  and,  really,  could  not  be  driven  two  miles  as  any 
person  would  drive  a  horse.  But  a  heavy  horse  can  be  driven 
from  eight  to  twelve  miles  within  an  hour.  This  is  positive 
proof  that  it  is  not  in  the  lungs. 

Second. — Take  a  heavy  horse  and  turn  him  out  to  pasture 
forty-eight  hours,  and  he  will  breathe  clear  and  easy,  showing 
no  signs  of  the  heaves.  The  grass  has  not  reached  the  lungs 
still  it  has  stopped  the  hard  breathing ;  but  if  you  will  give  the 
horse  cold  water  to  drink,  he  will  cough.  Has  the  water 
touched  the  lungs  ?  No ;  but  it  has  touched  the  disease.  This 
is  another  reason  why  it  is  not  in  the  lungs. 

I  will  tell  you  where  the  disease  is,  and  what  it  is  caused  by. 
1st.  A  dainty  horse  is  not  liable  to  heaves,  but  a  hearty  eater 
is  liable  to  this  disease — not  from  the  amount  of  food  that  he 
eats,  but  from  the  hoggish  way  of  eating.  There  are  two 
pipes  leading  to  the  stomach  and  lungs ;  where  they  meet  there 
is  a  throttle  valve.  A  horse  on  eating  coarse  food,  scratches 
his  throttle;  then,  by  a  hard  drive,  and  warming  the  horse, 
he  takes  cold  in  his  wound,  and  becomes  a  running  sore  or 
canker.  By  turning  the  horse  to  grass,  the  juice  cleanses  and 
washes  the  wound ;  the  grass  being  cool  takes  the  inflamma- 
tion from  the  disease ;  the  swelling  is  gone,  and  the  horse 
breathes  free  and  easy  as  ever.  This  is  positive  proof  that  it  is 
not  in  the  lungs.  Then,  by  feeding  with  coarse  and  dry  hay, 
it  irritates  and  creates  inflammation  and  causes  the  horse  to 
breathe  hard  again. 

Cure. — Take  Balsam  of  Fir  and  Balsam  of  Copavia,  equal 
parts ;  add  enough  calcined  magnesia  to  make  into  balls. 
Give  a  middle-sized  ball,  night  and  morning,  for  ten  days  or 
two  weeks — a  ball  about  the  size  of  the  yolk  of  an  egg.  This 
is  a  sure  cure.  I  never  made  a  failure  in  any  case.  You 
should  be  careful  about  feeding  for  two  weeks  after  giving  the 
medicine.  Cut,  feed,  and  wet  the  hay.  A  little  brown  sugar 
in  his  food  for  a  few  days  will  be  good. 

Lung  Fever 

This  disease  always  makes  its  appearance  by  a  chill,  the 
horse   v/ill   shake   and  tremble   like  a  person   with   the  ague. 


66  THE  HORSE 

Whilst  the  chill  is  on,  take  half  a  pint  of  fine  salt,  put  in  a 
bottle  of  water,  shake  well,  and  drench  the  horse.  This  will 
release  him  entirely  from  the  chill,  and  create  perspiration, 
and  he  will  be  quite  sick  for  a  few  minutes ;  but  it  will  drive 
the  cold  entirely  out,  and  he  will  look  bright,  and  feel  entirely 
well  in  a  few  hours.  But  if  you  should  not  discover  him  while 
the  chill  is  on,  it  will  require  a  different  treatment.  If  he  has 
been  free  from  the  chill  for  five  or  six  hours,  the  symptoms 
will  be,  eyes  inflamed,  nostrils  distended,  breath  short  and 
quick  and  he  will  stand  with  his  head  down ;  his  pulse  from 
fifty  to  one  hundred.  You  will  find  it  under  the  jaw,  just  be- 
low where  they  buckle  the  throat  latch.  By  putting  your  ear 
back  of  the  fore  leg  you  will  hear  a  quick,  heavy  beating  of  the 
lungs.  He  will  have  no  disposition  to  move  or  eat,  but  will 
drink ;  he  never  lies  down.  These  are  sure  signs  of  inflamma- 
tion of  the  lungs. 

The  causes  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs  are  many.  It  may 
be  brought  on  by  filthy  stables,  but  is  usually  by  sudden 
changes  from  heat  to  cold  and  vice  versa.  The  membrane  that 
lines  the  cells  of  the  lungs  is  very  sensitive;  there  is  also  an 
intimate  connection  between  the  lungs  and  the  pores  of  the 
skin ;  by  stopping  the  insensible  perspiration,  a  cold  and  cough 
ensue.  A  horse  is  driven  until  a  sensible  perspiration  is 
pouring  from  him,  then  he  is  left  in  a  current  of  air  which 
closes  the  pores  of  the  skin,  thus  arresting  the  perspiration, 
and  driving  the  inflammation  which  it  causes  to  the  lungs. 
The  majority  of  cases  are  very  sudden.  At  first,  the  pulse  is 
not  much  quicker,  but  the  artery  is  plainly  to  be  felt  under 
the  finger,  and  of  its  usual  size.  The  pulse  no  longer  indi- 
cates the  expansion  of  the  vessel ;  in  some  cases  it  eludes  a 
most  delicate  touch ;  the  legs  are  cold  and  the  nostrils  ex- 
panded;  the  flanks  begin  to  heave  with  a  quick  and  hurried 
motion,  a  symptom  of  pain ;  the  membrane  of  the  nose  is  very 
red ;  he  stands  with  his  legs  abroad ;  his  countenance  indicates 
suffering,  and  he  looks  mournfully  towards  his  flanks — he 
is  unwilling  to  move — scarcely  ever  lies  down ;  if  he  does,  it  is 
only  for  a  moment  from  actual  fatigue. 

The  duration  of  this  disease  is  very  uncertain.  It  will  in 
some  cases  destroy  in  from  twelve  to  twenty  hours,  and  some- 
times they  will  last  for  weeks.  In  sudden  attacks  of  this  kind, 
the  lungs  are  entirely  destroyed,  resembling  one  black  mass 
of  blood. 

The  disease  invariably  makes  its  appearance  with  a  chill. 
He  commences  trembling  and  shaking  as  if  half  frozen.  At 
this  stage  of  disease,  the  object  should  be  to  get  up  a  reaction. 
Dissolve  half  a  pint  of  fine  salt,  in  warm  water;  shake  it  well, 


THE  HORSE  67 

and  give  as  a  drench ;  then  clothe  him,  and  in  fifteen  minutes 
he  will  be  wet  with  perspiration;  bathe  his  legs  in  warm 
water. 

But  if  the  fever  has  commenced,  it  will  require  different 
treatment ;  if  it  has  been  on,  say  six  hours,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  bleed,  and  very  severely  so.  Open  as  large  an  orifice  in 
the  vein  as  possible ;  the  object  is  to  get  control  of  the  blood. 
The  heart  is  working  very  hard  to  force  the  blood  through 
the  lungs.  Bleed  until  the  pulse  is  much  slower,  or  flutters ; 
then  bathe  the  leg  with  as  hot  water  as  he  can  b<;ar ;  bathe 
frequently,  to  get  up  circulation  in  the  extremities. 

If  the  attack  is  a  severe  one,  blister  the  brisket,  and  the 
sides,  as  high  up  as  the  elbows — a  mustard  blister,  if  it  will 
do ;  if  not,  with  the  flyblister — four  oz.  lard,  one  oz.  rosin,  and 
one  oz.  flies.  It  will  not  do  to  purge ;  there  is  so  much  sym- 
pathy between  the  bowels  and  the  lungs,  purging  would 
transfer  the  inflammation  to  the  bowels.  In  such  a  case,  you 
must  use  clysters.  Take  eight  oz.  Epsom  salts,  dissolve  in 
warm  gruel,  and  inject;  this  will  start  the  bowels,  which  are 
somewhat  relaxed.  You  must  now  use  cooling  or  sedative 
medicines.  Take  of  digitalis  one  drachm,  one  and  a  half  of 
emetic  tartar,  and  three  of  nitre ;  give  three  times  a  day ;  this 
will  have  an  immediate  effect  on  the  heart,  lessening  the  num- 
ber of  pulsations  and  producing  an  intermittent  state  of  the 
pulse ;  every  six  or  seven  beats,  there  will  be  a  suspension 
while  two  or  three  could  be  counted.  From  this  he  will  amend. 
Now  reduce  the  dose  to  one  half,  and  in  a  few  days,  it  will  not 
be  necessary  to  give  any  medicinal  treatment  of  any  kind. 

He  should  now  have  oatmeal  gruel,  or  flaxseed  meal  gruel, 
they  are  strengthening.  Mashes  may  be  given,  or  green  food, 
in  small  quantities.  For  inhaling,  which  is  one  of  the  most 
essential  things  to  be  done,  use — digitalis  one  half  ounce,  nitre 
one  ounce,  and  of  balsams,  fir  and  copaiva,  two  ounces  each. 
Mix  these  together  with  one  pint  95  spirits,  and  add  one  pint 
hot  rain  water.  Cover  the  horse  all  over,  letting  the  blankets 
reach  the  ground,  so  that  no  air  can  get  under  them.  Then 
hold  the  mixture  under  his  nose,  and  at  the  same  time,  touch 
a  hot  iron  in  the  compound,  and  let  him  inhale  the  steam  or 
fumes  arising  from  the  mixture.  This  will  relieve  the  lungs 
from  fever,  drive  the  inflammation  to  the  surface,  and  the  cure 
is  positive. 

Adhesive  Plasters 

These  plasters  should  be  used  over  parts  that  have  been 
strained,  or  otherwise  weakened,  and  on  deep-seated  inflam- 
mation of  the  loins  or  back  sinews.     They  are  always  to  be  ap- 


68  THE  HORSE 

plied  warm,  when  they  will  adhere  for  a  long  time.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  good  plaster: 

Take  of  Burgundy  or  common  pitch  five  ounces,  of  yellow 
wax  one  ounce,  of  tar  six  ounces.  Melt  together.  When 
cooled  to  blood  heat,  add  half  a  drachm  of  pulvreized  cantha- 
rides.      Stir  well   together. 

When  you  apply  it,  warm  or  melt  it  over,  and  rub  it  well 
into  the  hair  upon  the  sprain;  then,  while  it  is  yet  warm,  (for 
it  should  be  applied  as  hot  as  possible,)  spread  over  it  a  lint 
of  tow,  well  picked;  pat  down  with  the  hand.  This  will  make 
a  strong  covering,  and  will  remain  for  months.  It  will  grad- 
ually remove  deep-seated  inflammation,  and,  by  its  pressure, 
promotes  the  absorption  of  any  callous  or  thickening  beneath; 
at  the  same  time,  as  a  bandage,  it  gives  strength  to  the  parts. 

Physicing 

There  is  more  injury  done  in  the  practice  of  this  than  in  any 
other  medical  treatment  of  the  horse.  The  old  practice  has 
been  to  physic  and  bleed  every  spring,  and  this  is  necessary 
where  the  horse  is  really  sick.  When  you  change  him  from 
the  pasture  to  the  warm  stable  and  dry  food,  it  is  also  good, 
the  horse  must  be  prepared  for  it.  Give  three  or  four  mashes 
before  the  physic,  and,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  they  will  be 
sufficient  without  it,  especially  if  the  bowels  are  slightly  moved 
for  really  the  less  medicine  given  the  better. 

After  the  physic  is  given,  the  horse  should  have  walking 
exercise  for  an  hour  or  two ;  but,  when  it  begins  to  operate,  he 
should  be  kept  still  as  possible,  or  the  medicine  would  be 
likely  to  gripe,  and  perhaps  irritate  the  intestinal  canal,  and 
cause  inflammation.  You  can  give  him  a  small  amount  of  hay 
and  as  much  mash  as  he  will  eat,  and  as  much  water  with  the 
chill  off  as  he  chooses  to  drink;  if  he  will  not  drink  tepid 
water,  give  him  about  a  quart  of  cold  water  every  hour.  When 
the  purging  ceases,  give  a  mash  twice  a  day,  until  you  give 
more  physic,  which  should  be  only  once  a  week. 

Barbadoes  aloes  is  the  best  purgative,  being  always  sure  and 
safe.  The  dose,  with  the  horse  prepared  by  bran  mashes, 
would  vary  from  five  to  seven  drachms,  the  latter  sufficient  for 
any  horse.  You  can  dissolve  in  warm  water,  and  give  as  a 
drench,  or  make  into  a  ball  with  linseed  oil,  and  lay  upon 
the  roots  of  the  tongue,  letting  go  the  tongue  at  the  same 
time. 

The  next  best  purgative  is  the  Croton  nut;  the  fatina  or 
meal  of  the  nut  is  used.  It  should  be  made  into  a  ball  with 
linseed  oil.  Give  from  a  scruple  to  half  a  drachm,  according 
to  the  state  of  the  subject.  It  acts  more  speedily  than  aloes, 
but  causes  more  debility.     Linseed  oil   is  uncertain,  but  safe 


THE  HORSE  69 

in  doses  from  a  pound  to  a  pound  and  a  half.     It  leaves  the 
horse  in  very  good  condition. 

Poultices 

Fev^  horsemen  are  aware  of  the  value  of  these  simple  prepa- 
rations in  abating  inflammation  and  in  allaying  pain,  cleans- 
ing wounds  and  causing  them  to  heal.  They  are  the  best  kinds 
of  fomentations ;  they  continue  longer  and  keep  the  pores 
open.  In  all  inflammations  of  the  foot  they  are  very  beneficial 
and  in  cases  of  contraction.  A  poultice  that  retains  the  heat 
and  moisture  longest  is  the  best.  They  will  relieve  swellings, 
take  out  the  soreness  from  the  pores,  and  draw  out  the  unna- 
utral  substances.  Linseed  meal  makes  the  best  poultice;  it 
will  hasten  any  tumor  that  is  necessary  to  open,  and  cleanse 
any  old  one,  causing  a  healthy  discharge,  where  it  is  offensive. 
But  in  this  case — where  the  ulcer  smells  badly — add  two 
ounces  of  pulverized  charcoal  or  chloride  of  lime — half  an 
ounce  to  one  pound  of  meal.  This  is  good  to  use  in  grease  or 
cracked  heel. 

A  poultice  should  never  be  put  on  tight.  Carrots  are  very 
good,  mashed  fine,  after  boiling  soft.  The  coal  may  be  used 
in  this  also,  where  the  parts  smell  offensively. 

Wind  Galls 

These  appear  oftener  on  the  hind  than  on  the  fore  legs.  It 
is  a  filling  in  of  a  mucous  fluid  in  bags  or  sacks.  It  is  caused 
by  undue  pressure  from  violent  action,  and  by  straining  the 
tendon.  These  bags  inflame,  and  fill  larger  and  harder;  they 
always  form  about  the  joint,  as  so  many  tendons  concentrate 
there.  Very  few  horses  are  perfectly  free  from  them.  At  first 
they  may  cause  lameness ;  but,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  they 
do  not.  It  has  been  thought  that  these  bags  were  filled  with 
wind,  and,  in  some  cases,  they  have  been  opened,  but  this 
causes  inflammation,  and  would  lame  the  horse.  The  way  to 
treat  them  is  with  a  powerful  blister  directly  on  them,  and 
then  bandage ;  after  the  blister  is  formed,  you  must  bathe  it  in 
some  astringent.  A  decoction  of  oak  bark  is  good.  By  this 
treatment  the  mucous  is  taken  up  by  the  absorbents,  and  you 
will  have  a  cure.  You  must  be  very  careful  in  driving  for  sev- 
eral days. 

The   Action   of  the   Kidneys   on  the    Blood 

The  blood  contains  a  great  quantity  of  watery  fluid,  unne- 
cessary for  the  nutriment  or  repair  of  the  frame.  There  also 
mingles  with  it  matter  which  would  become  noxious  if  allowed 


70  THE  HORSE 

to  accumulate  too  much.  The  kdineys  are  actually  employed 
in  separating  these  fluids,  and  in  carrying  off  a  substance, 
which,  as  an  ingredient  in  the  urine,  is  called  the  urea,  and 
consists  of  what  would  be  poisonous  to  the  animal  if  remain- 
ing. The  kidneys  are  two  large  glandular  bodies  placed  under 
the  loins,  very  much  the  shape  of  a  kidney  bean.  The  right 
kidney  is  forward  under  the  liver;  the  left  is  back  by  the 
stomach  and  spleen.  A  large  artery  runs  to  each,  and  carries 
about  one-sixth  part  of  the  whole  blood  that  circulates  through 
the  frame.  It  divides  into  numberless  little  branches,  most 
complicated,  and  coiled  upon  each  other.  The  blood  has  waste 
parts,  which,  if  allowed  to  remain,  would  be  very  injurious; 
and  these  must  be  separated  from  it. 

The  fluid  separated  varies  materially  in  quantity  and  compo- 
sition even  during  health,  more  so  in  the  horse  than  in  any 
other  animal ;  and  there  is  no  organ  so  much  under  our  con- 
trol as  the  kidneys. 

Diuretics  are  the  most  useful  medicines,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  the  most  injurious  if  improperly  used. 

In  fevers,  and  in  inflammation  generally,  for  diuretic,  use 
nitre  and  digitalis,  on  account  of  their  sedative  effects.  They 
stimulate  the  kidnys  to  separate  more  than  usual  the  quantity 
of  water  from  the  blood,  and  lessen  the  quantity  of  the  latter. 
The  object  in  this  is  to  reduce  the  circulation,  and  thus  ease 
the  heart  in  its  labor  by  calming  the  excitement.  An  over- 
flow of  blood  gives  quicker  action  to  the  heart,  and  causes  the 
heating  you  will  notice  in  lung  fever.  Diuretics  lessen  the 
blood,  and  give  more  perfect  control  over  the  heart. 

In  cases  where  the  legs  are  swelled,  the  absorbents  set  to 
work  and  take  up,  and  pour  into  the  circulation,  the  fluid 
which  has  been  effused  into  them. 

The  legs  of  some  horses  cannot  be  rendered  fine,  nor  kept 
so,  without  the  use  of  diuretics ;  nor  can  what  is  called  grease 
heel — frequently  connected  with  these  swellings,  yet  cured 
without  the  use  of  them,  always  let  the  horse  have  plenty  of 
tepid  water — the  more  the  better.  You  must  always  be  care- 
ful not  to  keep  him  too  warm ;  for  if  he  sweats  the  medicine, 
instead  of  stimulating  the  kidneys,  passes  off  in  perspiration. 

Antimony 

There  are  several  valuable  preparations  of  this.  The  black 
sulphuret  of  antimony,  a  compound  of  sulphur  and  antimony 
is  a  good  alterative.  It  is  given  with  more  sulphur,  and  with 
nitre,  in  varying  doses,  according  to  the  disease,  and  the  slow 
and  rapid  effect  to  be  produced.  The  dose  if  you  expect  to 
continue  it,  should  be  at  the  most,  four  drachms.     It  should 


THE  HORSE  71 

never  be  bought  in  powder,  whatever  may  be  the  trouble  to 
pulverize  it,  for  it  is  frequently  adulterated  with  lead,  mag- 
nesia forgedust,  and  arsenic. 

Sweeny 

The  disease  is  on  the  side  of  the  shoulder.  The  horse  suf- 
fering from  it  will  be  quite  lame,  and  will  stand  with  one  foot 
before  the  other ;  or  if  it  is  both  shoulders,  he  will  change  from 
one  to  the  other.  The  use  of  the  shoulder  is  sluggish,  and  in 
breaking  he  will  drag  the  foot,  instead  of  raising  it  from  the 
ground.  It  is  caused  by  a  strain  or  bruise,  or  by  favoring  the 
foot  when  diseased  in  some  other  part. 

The  membrane  or  muscle  of  the  shoulder  will  shrink  much. 
Where  the  horse  has  not  been  lame  long  enough  to  know  how 
to  ease  himself  by  standing,  you  can  easily  tell  what  the 
trouble  is  by  pressing  with  the  thumb  upon  the  muscle,  which 
may  be  shrunk  but  a  little,  yet  when  you  press  the  point  af- 
fected, he  will  shrink  from  the  touch. 

Cure. — The  only  way  this  can  be  cured  is  by  a  seaton  or 
rowell.  The  object  of  this  is  to  create  inflammation  of  the 
membrane.  This  seaton  in  these  diseases  should  be  from  five 
to  fifteen  inches  in  length.  The  best  article  to  use  for  it  is 
tarred  rigging  rope ;  this  should  be  turned  every  day  for  from 
two  to  three  weeks.  To  insert  this  you  must  make  an  incision 
on  the  top  through  the  skin  and  the  membrane  under  the 
skin ;  the  same  at  the  bottom.  Procure  along,  thin  iron  needle 
with  a  large  eye,  and  thread  with  strong  twine,  to  which 
fasten  the  rowell ;  run  the  needle  through  the  two  openings, 
drawing  the  rowell  through,  and  then  tie,  leaving  either  inches 
slack  to  tie  with.  In  some  cases  it  will  be  necessary  to  wet  the 
rowell  with  oil  of  terpentine  or  tincture  of  cantharides — either 
will  do.  Bathe  the  shoulder  every  day  with  as  warm  water  as 
he  can  bear. 

If  it  has  the  desired  effect,  it  wlil  discharge  freely.  This 
will  relax  and  loosen  up  the  membrane,  and  make  the  parts 
fill  out  smooth.  Keep  clean  by  soft  water  and  soap,  so  that 
the  discharge  will  not  remove  the  hair.  If  you  apply  grease 
on  the  hair  under  the  cut,  it  will  prevent  the  hair  from 
coming  off. 

Hide  Bound 

This  is  not  so  much  a  shrinking  of  the  fatty  substance  be- 
tween the  skin  and  the  muscles,  as  it  is  an  alteration  of  the 
skin  itself.  It  is  a  drying  up  of  the  oily  moisture  of  the  skin ; 
it  thus  becomes  dry  and  hard,  the  scales  to  the  cuticle  no 
longer  yields  to  the  skin,  but  separating  in  every  direction, 


72  THE  HORSE 

turns  the  hair  and  gives  it  a  staring  rough  look,  which  is  an  in- 
dication that  the  horse  is  out  of  condition.  The  vessels  of  the 
skin  and  bowels,  as  well  as  the  stomach  are  deranged.  It  is  a 
symptom  of  disease  of  the  digestive  organs. 

At  first,  give  a  bran  mash,  and,  if  it  can  be  had,  sassafras 
tea.  But  in  severe  cases  use  levigated  antimony  two  drachms 
nitre  three  drachms,  sulphur  five  drachms — give  every  night 
in  a  mash.  The  antimony  acts  on  the  skin,  the  sulphur  on 
the  bowels,  and  the  nitre  on  the  urinary  organs.  Rub  him 
and  give  him  warm  clothing.  The  skin  will  soon  become  loose 
and  the  horse  be  in  condition  again. 

Cough 

Use  elecampaine  roots,  horehound  and  smartweed  with  six 
red  pepper  pods  to  two  ounces  of  ginger  root ;  boil  till  all  the 
strength  is  extracted,  then  strain  through  flannel ;  add  two 
quarts  of  molasses  to  every  gallon  of  this  extract,  and  boil  all 
together  for  half  an  hour.  Give  one  gill  twice  a  day.  Use  an 
ox  horn,  or  a  crooked  tin  horn :  Raise  the  head,  and  draw  the 
tongue  out  on  the  left  side ;  put  the  small  end  of  the  horn  on 
the  roots  of  the  tongue,  and  empty  the  contents ;  then  let  go 
the  tongue.  Swab  the  throat  every  night  with  this  mixture, 
using  a  whalebone  with  linen  wrapped  on  the  end.  This  is  a 
sure  cure  for  coughs. 

Among  all  diseases  to  which  this  noble  creature  is  subject, 
none  has  given  more  perplexity  to  farriers  than  a  settled 
cough ;  indeed,  it  too  often  defies  all  the  attempts  of  art,  and 
the  horse  frequently  becomes  ashtmatical  or  broken  winded. 

For  Restoring  Hair  to  Golled  Spots  on  Horses 

Take  one  pound  red  clover  blossoms  and  six  quarts  of  water, 
simmer  to  a  thick  syrup — then  add  sufficient  barbary  tallow  to 
make  a  paste.  This  form  is  the  best  ointment  for  this  pur- 
pose extant. 

For  Spavin 

Five  ounces  euphorbium;  2  ounces  Spanish  flies,  (fine;)  one 
ounce  iodine,  dissolve  with  alcohol ;  one  half  ounce  red  pre- 
cipitate ;  one  ounce  corosive  sublimate ;  one  half  ounce  quick- 
silver; six  ounces  hog's  lard;  six  ounces  white  turpentine,  one 
quarter  pound  verdigris.  Melt  the  lard  and  the  turpentine 
together,  then  while  hot  add  all  together.  Mix  well ;  when 
cold,  fit  for  use.  Rub  it  in  thoroughly  on  the  spavin  every 
day  for  three  days,  then  wash  clean  with  soap-suds,  omit  for 
three  days,  and  then  repeat  for  three  days  again,  and  so  on 
until  a  perfect  cure  is  produced.  Should  it  blister,  use  it 
more  cautiously. 


THE  HORSE  73 

Preparation  for  Blood  Spavin 

One  half  pound  blood-root,  one  quart  alcohol,  two  ounces  of 
tannin  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  alum. — Mix  and  let  it 
stand,  shaking  it  several  times  a  day,  till  the  strength  is  all  in 
the  alcohol,  and  bathe  the  spavin  twice  a  day,  rubbing  it  in 
with  the  hand. 

Cure  for  Heaves 

Take  smart  weed,  steep  it  in  boiling  water  till  the  strength 
is  all  out ;  give  one  quart  every  day  mixed  with  bran  or  shorts 
for  eight  or  ten  days.  Give  green  or  cut  up  feed,  wet  with 
water  during  the  operation,  and  it  will  cure. 

Anti-Spasmodics 

There  are  but  few  of  these,  and  the  horse  is  subject  but  to 
few  spasmodic  diseases.  Opium  is  the  best  for  general  effect 
and  that  exerted  particularly  on  lock  jaw  the  oil  of  turpentine 
as  a  specific  for  spasms  of  the  bowels. 

Anti-Spasmodic  Tincture  for  Man  or  Horse 

Oil  cajeput,  one  ounce ;  oil  cloves,  one  ounce ;  oil  peppermint, 
one  ounce;  oil  anise,  one  ounce;  alcohol  one  quart.  Mix  all 
together  and  bottle  for  use.  Dose  for  a  horse,  one  ounce  every 
fifteen  minutes  in  a  little  whisky  and  hot  water,  sweeten  with 
molasses;  continue  until  relieved.  Dose  for  a  man,  one  tea- 
spoonful. 

Worms  in  tlie  Horse — How  Treated 

There  are  several  kinds  of  worms  in  the  intestines,  and  they 
are  hurtful  only  when  in  large  quantities.  The  long  white 
worm  resembles  the  common  earth  worm,  and  is  from  six  to 
ten  inches  long.  They  are  in  the  small  intestines,  and,  when 
in  large  numbers,  consume  much  of  the  nutritive  part  of  the 
food,  or  the  mucous  of  the  bowels.  Then  the  smaller  and 
darker  colored  worm,  called  the  needle  worm,  in  the  large  in- 
testines. In  may  cases  they  descend  into  the  rectum  in 
large  quantiies ;  they  irritate  the  fundament  and  annoy  the 
horse.     This  is  the  trouble  when  he  rubs  his  tail  very  much. 

The  horse  shows  this  disease  by  falling  off  in  flesh ;  his  hide 
will  be  tight  and  the  hair  looks  bad  and  sets  forward;  the  eye 
has  a  dull  look  and  at  times  will  scringe  and  shrink  down ; 
he  sometimes  passes  worms  and  he  cannot  be  kept  in  condi- 
tion. 

Cure. — One  ounce  of  aloes  dissolved  in  warm  water  and 
given  as  an  injection.     This  will  succeed  in  most  of  cases.     If 


74  THE  HORSE 

not  give  one  pint  of  neatsfoot  oil  as  a  drench,  and  one  pint  as 
an  injection.  These  will  not  fail.  Give  mashes  after  this  for 
a  few  days. 

It  is  well  known  that  horses  which  have  many  worms  can 
never  thrive  or  carry  much  flesh.  If  the  breeding  of  these 
vermin  were  prevented,  it  would  add  much  to  the  strength  of 
the  horse;  and  it  might  be  done  by  giving  him  a  decoction  of 
bitter  herbs,  such  as  wormwood  in  Spring.  It  may  be  boiled 
or  steeped  in  hot  water,  and  given  two  or  three  times  a  week. 
Or  a  decoction  of  wormwood  buck-bean,  gentian  root,  and 
camomile  flowers,  of  each  a  large  handful,  boiled  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  water,  and  given  will  answer  the  end. 

Anodynes 

Of  these  there  is  but  one  in  horse  practice.  Opium  is  the 
only  drug  that  will  lull  pain.  It  also  acts  as  an  astringent  in 
doses  of  one,  two  or  three  drachms. 

Farcy — Its  Treatment 

When  farcy  attacks  only  one  part  of  the  horse,  and  that 
where  the  blood-vessels  are  small,  it  may  be  easily  cured ;  but 
when  the  plate  vein  is  affected  and  turns  corded,  and  especially 
the  crural  veins  inside  the  thigh  are  in  that  condition,  the 
cure  is  very  difficult,  and  the  creature  is  rarely  fit  for  anything 
but  the  lowest  work,  after  it. 

Bathe  the  legs  every  night  in  hot  water,  into  which  put  a 
shovel  of  hot  wood  ashes  making  a  weak  lay.  When  he  re- 
gains his  appetite  be  very  careful  in  feeding.  Give  him 
mashes  at  least  twice  a  day  until  he  gets  his  strength;  then 
give  green  food  if  possible. 

In  very  severe  cases  of  farcy,  internal  medicines  will  be 
necessary.  Use  of  corrosive  suglimate,  ten  grains — increased 
to  a  scruple  with  two  drachms  of  gentian,  and  one  of  ginger; 
repeat  morning  and  night,  until  the  ulcers  disappear. 

Pleurisy — How  to  be  Treated 

This  is  an  attack  of  the  membrane  covering  the  lungs,  and 
the  lining  of  the  chest,  called  the  "pleura."  The  symptoms 
are  nearly  the  same  as  in  inflammation  of  the  lungs.  The  horse 
has  no  disposition  to  lie  down  or  to  move  about ;  the  neck  will 
be  the  same  as  in  lung  fever ;  nostrils  distended,  and  the  mem- 
brane of  the  nose  very  red ;  he  breathes  very  hard,  with  a  kind 
of  grunt ;  the  legs  will  be  cold,  and  he  will  have  a  hard  full 
pulse.  The  blood,  however,  is  not  obstructed  in  its  passage 
through  the  lungs.  By  pressing  on  his  side,  he  will  give 
symptoms  of  pain  in  a  very  decided  grunt. 


THE  HORSE  75 

Cure.— Blister  both  sides  of  the  chest,  and  bathe  the  legs  in 
hot  water.  Or  broil  bran,  and  then  put  an  old  pantaloon  leg 
on  over  this,  and  fill  in  around  with  hot  bran;  this  will  get  up 
a  circulation  in  the  extremities.  Then  give  one  and  a  half 
drachms  emetic  tartar,  two  drachms  digitalis,  three  drachms 
nitre.  Keep  well  covered  with  warm  clothing.  Use  one  ounce 
of  cream  tartar  in  two  quarts  of  tepid  water,  for  a  drink.  Be 
sure  to  keep  the  legs  warm  by  hot  applications  and  bandages. 
Use  these  medicines  until  a  cure  is  affected. 

Staggers 

There  is  but  little  of  this  disease  in  the  Northern  States,  but 
it  exists  to  a  great  extent  in  all  the  Southern.  The  food  is  the 
principal  cause;  there  is  a  great  quantity  of  diseased  corn  used 
and  too  much  of  any  kind  is  usually  given ;  then  as  much 
water  as  he  will  drink  after  it,  which  generates  an  unhealthy 
gas  in  the  stomach,  and  causes  distention ;  the  blood  is  in- 
flamed and  rushes  to  the  head,  and  the  brain  is  somewhat  in- 
flamed. The  horse  staggers  about,  or  becomes  sluggish,  and 
stands  with  head  down ;  the  eyes  look  glassy ;  in  some  cases, 
he  will  rear,  and  fall  back,  or  run ;  he  will  not  eat,  but  hold 
the  hay  in  his  mouth,  and  then  drops  it;  he  sweats  profusely, 
and  in  a  short  time  will  fall  and  die. 

Cure. — First,  physic  with  one  ounce  of  aloes  dissolved  in 
warm  water,  and  given  as  drench;  in  one  hour,  give  half  an 
ounce  more  of  the  aloes,  and  continue  this  until  it  operates. 
As  soon  as  the  first  aloes  is  given  blister  the  head  with  a  strong 
fly  blister,  apply  this  over  the  brain,  from  below  the  ear  nearly 
down  to  the  eye ;  then  bathe  the  legs  with  as  hot  water  as  you 
can  use,  and  bandage  them  with  flannel,  keep  them  as  warm 
as  possible.  Then  give  one  drachm  of  digitalis,  one  and  a  half 
of  emetic  tartar,  and  three  drachms  of  nitre.  If  it  is  to  be  re- 
peated, use  half  of  the  above  amount  in  three  hours.  Then  if 
he  has  any  disposition  to  eat,  give  bran  mash,  with  one  table 
spoonful  of  pulverized  resin;  use  this  for  a  week  as  he  re- 
covers, and  feed  and  work  lightly  until  he  regains  his  strength. 
If  he  is  bound  up,  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  injections,  which 
are  always  beneficial. 

Warbles,  Sitfasts  and  Saddle  Galls  \ 

These  are  caused  in  many  cases  by  using  a  blanket  under 
the  saddle  in  hot  weather,  thus  scalding  the  back,  and  causing 
these  little  lumps  to  appear ;  and  when  they  ulcerate,  they  are 
called  "sitfasts."  The  ulcer  has  a  calloused  spot  in  the  center. 
When  they  first  make  their  appearance,  rest  will  remove  them; 
but  if  the  horse  is  to  be  used,  you  must  remove  he  stuffing 


76  THE  HORSE 

from  the  pad  of  the  saddle,  that  the  bearing  may  not  come  on 
the  ulcer.  Bathe  in  strong  salt  water,  to  remove  the  enlarge- 
ment ;  but  if  it  does  not  effect  this,  and  it  is  really  a  sitfast,  ap- 
ply a  blister,  this  will  dissolve  it,  then  apply  the  resin  and 
honey  ointment  to  heal  it.  A  horse  with  high  withers,  long 
back,  and  broad  loins,  will  make  the  best  saddle  nag,  and 
carry  his  rider  with  ease.  In  hot  weather,  it  is  a  good  practice 
to  bathe  the  back  with  salt  water,  when  the  saddle  is  removed 
at  noon  and  night. 

For  Inflammation  of  the  Lungs  In  a  Horse 

First  a  thorough  bleeding,  then  would  give  tincture  vera- 
trum  varide,  half  an  ounce ;  laudanum,  four  ounces ;  tincture 
aconite,  quarter  of  an  ounce;  shake  well  together  and  give  a 
half  tablespoonful  every  three  or  four  hours,  in  some  water, 
well  sweetened;  and  should  it  not  bring  down  the  pulse,  the 
dose  can  be  gradually  increased  to  a  tablespoonful,  and  as  soon 
as  the  horse  recovers  so  as  to  eat  and  lie  down  naturally,  would 
keep  him  on  hay  alone  perhaps,  with  a  few  carrots  or  potatoes, 
and  daily  give  a  bran  mash  with  saltpetre,  crude  antimony  and 
sulphur  for  ten  or  fifteen  days,  and  you  will  prevent  dropsy  of 
the  chest,  which  is  a  sequel  of  that  disease. 

For  Colic  in  Horses 

Sulphur  ether,  one  pint ;  aromatic  spirits  ammonia,  one  pint ; 
sweet  spirits  nitre,  two  pints ;  opium,  quarter  of  pound ;  asa- 
foetida  (pure),  half  pound;  camphor,  half  pound;  put  irj  a 
large  bottle,  let  stand  fourteen  days  with  frequent  shaking 
and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Dose  two  ounces  every  two,  three, 
or  four  hours  until  the  horse  is  relieved.  Should  be  given  in 
water  well  sweetened. 

Another  Remedy. — One  ounce  laudanum ;  one  ounce  sweet 
spirits  of  nitre ;  one  ounce  tincture  asafoetida,  one  tablespoon- 
ful capsicum ;  from  two  to  three  ounces  carbonate  soda ;  half 
pint  whiskey ;  half  pint  water.  Mix  and  give  at  one  dose,  and 
if  not  better  in  twenty-five  minutes,  repeat  half  doses. 

Stoppage  of  Water 

This  disease  in  most  cases  is  caused  by  allowing  the  horse  to 
become  foul,  and  what  is  called  a  beam  thereby  forms  in  the 
end  of  penis.  The  horse  will  stand  and  weave  or  stretch 
out ;  then  paw  and  kick  his  belly  with  his  hind  legs ;  he  may 
drop  down  in  harness,  and  sometimes  break  out  in  a  profuse 
sweat.  The  only  thing  to  be  done  in  this  case  is  to  draw  his 
yard  carefully,  and  run  the  finger  around  the  head,  where  you 


THE  HORSE  11 

will   find  two  or  three  hard  substances ;   withdraw  them  and 
wash  the  sheath  clean  and  grease  it  with  lard. 

In  some  cases  it  originates  from  contraction  of  the  muscle  of 
the  loins  or  inaction  of  the  kidneys.  To  cure  this,  bathe  the 
loins  with  hot  water  for  half  an  hour;  then  bathe  with  hot 
vinegar  and  pepper-sauce;  then  cover  the  loins  with  three  or 
four  thicknesses  of  blankets.  Then  mix  of  turpentine  one 
ounce,  sweet  spirits  of  nitre  two  ounces,  and  give  as  a  drink. 
Give  a  bran  mash  with  one  tablespoonful  of  resin  in  it  every 
day  for  a  week  and  the  cure  is  complete. 

Colic  or  Cholera  in  Mules 

This  appears  to  be  a  prevalent  disease  on  the  plantations,  and 
is  brought  on  by  giving  too  much  food  and  water  at  one  time, 
and  then  immediately  putting  him  to  work.  The  hard  work 
retards  digestion,  and  a  gas  is  generated  fro  the  food  and 
water,  which  fills  the  stomach  and  bowels  and  also  sets  the 
bots  to  work.  The  gas  would  kill  the  bot,  and  to  save  himself, 
he  bores  into  the  membrane  of  the  stomach,  or  tries  to  get 
out  at  the  meat-pipe  or  by  the  passage  between  the  stomachs. 
They  will  thus  stop  up  the  passage,  sometimes,  and  kill  the 
animal.  But  if  the  passages  are  open,  the  gas  will  pass  into 
the  bowels,  and  then  the  disease  is  colic.  He  will  be  much 
swollen  and  distended,  breathe  short  and  hard,  and  will  fall 
or  lay  down  and  get  up;  ears  will  lop  over  on  each  side,  and 
eyes  look  dull  and  heavy.  When  the  mule  is  first  taken,  take 
him  out  of  the  stable  and  keep  him  as  still  as  possible,  and 
in  the  majority  of  cases  he  will  recover  without  the  use  of 
medicine. 

Cure. — If  he  does  not  thus  get  over  it,  take  one  ounce  laud- 
anum ;  one  ounce  ether,  two  tablespoonfuls  soda,  two  drachms 
of  peppermint ;  put  with  half  pint  hot  gin,  and  give  as  a 
drench.  Then  give  injection  of  one  ounce  of  aloes  dissolved 
in  warm  water.      This  is  an  effectual  cure. 

Colts  Brought  Up  by  Hond 

It  is  a  frequent  remark,  that  cosset  colts,  are  worse  to  break 
than  those  which  were  never  handled  up  to  two  or  three  years 
old.  The  reason  is  that  they  are  spoiled  by  petting  them,  and 
allowing  them  to  do  as  they  please.  When  playing  with  colts, 
you  should  always  make  them  do  as  you  wish,  and  then,  if  they 
are  learned  to  do  as  you  will  in  playing,  they  will  not  be- 
come stubborn  when  you  wish  them  to  work.  The  great  ob- 
ject in  laying  the  horse  down  is  to  make  him  understand  that 
we  can  do  as  we  please  with  him,  and  then  he  sees  there  is  no 
use  resenting,  and  we  have  gained  our  point.      After  this,  he 


78  THE  HORSE 

obeys  without  difficulty,  and  that  stubborn,  willful  feeling  is 
subdued.     You  may  then  teach  him  anything  you  please. 

Vegetable  Caustic 

Make  a  strong  lye  of  hickory  or  oak  ashes,  put  into  an  iron 
kettle  and  evaporate  to  the  consistency  of  thin  molasses ;  then 
remove  into  a  sand  bath,  and  continue  the  evaporation 
to  the  consistency  of  honey  Keep  it  in  a  grand  stopped 
glass  jar. 

This  caustic  is  very  valuable  in  fistulas,  cancers,  scrofulas 
and  indolent  ulcers,  particularly  where  there  are  sinuses 
necrosis  (or  decay  or  bone)  and  in  all  cases  where  there  is 
proud  flesh,  and  also  to  excite  a  healthy  action  of  the  parts. 
It  removes  fungous  flesh  without  exciting  inflammation,  and 
acts  but  little  except  on  spongy  or  soft  flesh. 

To  Cure  Warts 

Take  corrosive  sublimate  and  red  precipitate,  powdered  and 
mixed,  equal  parts,  and  it  will  cure  the  worst  wart  in  the 
world  on  horses  or  cattle. 

If  the  wart  is  large  and  loose,  tie  a  fine,  strong  cord  around 
it  close  to  the  skin.  In  a  short  time  the  wart  will  come  off, 
then  apply  the  powder  until  the  wart  is  eaten  down  below  the 
skin,  then  wash  off  and  rub  on  a  little  sweet  oil,  and  it  will 
soon  heal  over.  If  the  wart  is  dry,  scratch  it  with  a  pin  or 
point  of  a  knife  until  it  bleeds,  then  rub  on  the  powder. 
It  will  make  a  dry  scab;  pick  off  the  scab  and  put  on  the 
powder  again  until  it  is  all  eaten  off. 

Hoof  Medicine 

Take  Rosin,  four  ounces;  beeswax,  five  ounces;  lard,  two 
pounds ;  melt  together,  pour  it  into  a  pot,  add  three  ounces 
turpentine ;  two  ounces  finely  pulverized  verdigris,  one  pound 
tallow;  stir  all  until  it  gets  cold.  This  is  one  of  the  best 
medicines  for  the  hoof  ever  used.  It  is  good  for  corks  or 
bruises  of  the  foot. 

To   Restore  the  Appetite 

Use  of  pulverized  caraway  seeds  and  bruised  raisins,  four 
ounces  each,  of  ginger  and  palm  oil,  two  ounces  each.  Always 
use  twice  as  much  of  the  first  as  of  the  last,  in  whatever  quantity 
you  wish  to  make  it.  Give  a  small  ball  once  a  day  until  the 
appetite  is  restored — use  mashes  at  the  same  time. 

Stoppage  of  the  Bowels 

Take  two  quarts  of  soft  fresh  horse  manure,  add  one  quart  of 


THE  HORSE  79 

boiling  hot  water,  then  strain  through  a  common  cloth  strainer 
— give  one  pint  as  a  drench.  This  will  not  fail  for  man  or 
beast.  For  a  man,  dose  one  tablespoonful  every  hour  until  it  acts. 

Salve  for   Man   or   Beast 

For  all  kinds  of  old  sores,  use  honey  and  rosin,  melted  to- 
gether;  add  lard  enough  to  make  a  paste;  when  cool,  it  is  fit 
for  use.  There  is  no  salve  better  than  this,  its  medicinal 
qualities  are  excellent. 

To  Soften  the  Feet 

Spirits  of  tar,  two  ounces ;  fish  oil,  four  ounces.        This  is  ' 

very  penetrating,  to  use  where  the  feet  are  hard  and  brittle. 
Rub  it  in  with  a  brush  upon  the  crust  and  sole  every  night. 

Stifle 

This  is  a  strain  of  the  stifle  muscles  only;  the  stifle  joint 
never  gets  out ;  if  it  should  the  horse  would  be  worthless.  The 
stifle  shoe  should  never  be  used. 

Cure. — Take  the  whites  of  six  eggs,  and  two  ounces  of  alum, 
pulverized ;  mix  well  together,  and  rub  on  the  stifle  muscles ; 
dry  with  a  hot  iron.  One  application  will  probably  be 
sufficient. 

2. — One  ounce  of  sugar  lead,  one  pint  of  alcohol,  mix  and 
apply  three  or  four  times  a  day,  until  a  cure  is  affected. 

Tonlcf 

Where  it  is  necessary  to  use  tonics,  gentian  is  one  of  the  best 
vegetables,  especially  in  chronic  debility.  It  is  best  united 
with  camomile  and  ginger.  Gentain,  four  drachms ;  camomile, 
two  drachms ;  ginegr,  one  drachm ;  give  in  balls. 

Mercurial    Ointment 

Of  quicksilver,  one  ounce ;  lard,  three  ounces ;  stir  until 
there  are  no  globules  to  be  seen.  This  is  used  sometimes  in 
preparing  sprains  and  spavins  for  the  regular  spavin  ointment 
rubbed  on  once  a  day,  for  two  or  three  days,  before  using  the 
ointment. 

For  all  slints,  bruises,  and  swellings  of  the  limbs,  use 
thoroughwort  and  mullen,  steeped  and  applied  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible, with  bandages. 

Spavin  and  Ringbone 

Cantharides  four  ounces,  origanum  two  ounces,  sulphate  of 
C   one   ounce,    Venice   turpentine   three    ounces,    murat.    tinct. 


80  THE  HORSE 

iron,  two  ounces,  verdigris  three  ounces,  oil  vitriol  two  ounces, 
fresh  lard  one  pound.  Shave  the  hair  from  the  part  diseased, 
and  rub  the  parts  with  the  medicine.  You  must  use  your  own 
judgment  in  using  this  medicine ;  that  is  in  the  length  of  time 
necessary  to  remove  the  callus.  It  must  be  used  every  other 
day,  this  will  dissolve  the  ossified  substance,  and  ooze  it  out. 
When  you  see  the  lump  is  diminished  enough,  then  use  the 
same  astringent  as  I  have  directed  in  the  other  cure,  that  is, 
white  oak  bark  and  alum,  a  quarter  pound  to  a  half  gallon  of 
bark  juice,  boiled  down  to  a  strong  decoction.  Use  morning 
and  evening. 

Receipt 

The  first-named  disease  comes  at  the  lower  part  of  the  gam- 
bre  joint.  It  is  caused  by  a  strain  or  bruise — either  will  cause 
it;  this  opens  the  pores  and  causes  the  substance  to  concen- 
trate at  one  place,  and  forms  in  a  gristly  or  bony  substance, 
and  causes  the  joint  to  become  stiff  and  sore.  The  horse  some- 
times becomes  lame  before  enlargement  is  perceivable.  In 
some  cases  it  will  continue  to  grow  for  two  years ;  it  will  then 
become  a  hard  bone.  The  enlargement  at  this  stage  cannot 
be  removed — you  may  kill  the  disease,  and  kill  the  lameness. 
The  great  object  with  this  disease  is  stop  the  leakage.  There 
has  nothing  been  used  as  an  astringent,  when  by  removing  the 
lump  without  the  astringent  it  leaves  the  parts  loose  and  open 
but  if  used  it  closes  and  stops  the  pores,  then,  by  letting  the 
horse  stand  until  it  heaves,  becomes  firm. 

Cure. — Four  ounces  green  euphorbium,  fine,  one  ounce 
Spanish  flies  pulverized,  four  ounces  corrosive  sublimate,  four 
ounces  red  precipitate,  six  ounces  white  pine  turpentine,  four 
ounces  iodine,  six  ounces  lard,  melt  the  lard  and  turpentine 
together,  after  it  is  nearly  cold,  add  the  other  articles  and  stir 
until  it  is  cold,  it  is  then  ready  for  use. 

Then  rub  the  enlargement  until  it  is  warm,  then  rub  on  the 
ointment  and  let  it  remain  for  twenty-four  hours,  then  take 
lard  and  rub  upon  it  until  all  of  the  ointment  is  taken  out. 
Let  it  remain  one  day,  then  apply  the  medicine  again,  keep 
this  up  until  the  enlargement  is  gone;  then  use  oak  bark  as  an 
astringent  to  bathe  it  in,  and  bandage  until  well,  keeping  it 
well  saturated  with  the  oak  bark  water. 

You  may  use  the  same  ointment  for  "thorough-pin,"  after 
it  is  blistered  sufficiently  deep,  use  the  oak  bark  and  bandage 
until  healed.  The  same  for  blood  spavin  and  wind  puffs,  It 
will  be  necessary  to  use  a  pad  under  the  bandage  in  "thorough- 
pin,"  to  make  it  bear  evenly. 

Keep  the  horse  quiet,  while  using  these  medicines  and  on  a 
low  diet. 


THE  HORSE  81 

To  Clean  and  Oil  Harness 

First  take  the  harness  apart,  having  each  strap  and  piece  by 
itself,  then  wash  it  in  warm  soap  suds.  When  cleaned,  black 
every  part  with  the  following  dye :  One  ounce  extract  logwood, 
twelve  grains  bichromate  of  potash,  both  pounded  fine,  when 
put  into  two  quarts  of  boiling  rain  water,  and  stir  until  all  is 
dissolved.  When  cool,  it  may  be  used.  You  can  bottle  and 
keep  for  future  use  if  you  wish.  It  may  be  applied  with  a 
shoe-brush,  or  anything  else  convenient.  When  the  dye  has 
struck  in,  you  may  oil  each  part  with  neats  foot  oil,  applied 
with  a  paint  brush,  or  anything  convenient.  For  second  oiling 
use  one-third  castor  oil,  and  two-third  neatsfoot  oil  mixed.  A 
few  hours  after,  wipe  clean  with  a  woolen  cloth,  which  gives 
the  harness  a  glossy  appearance. 

The  preparation  does  not  injure  the  leather  or  stitching, 
makes  it  soft  and  pliable  and  obviates  the  necessity  of  oiling 
as  often  as  is  necessary  by  the  ordinary  method. 

Strength  of  Food  for  Horses 

It  will,  perhaps  be  interesting  to  the  horseman  and  farrier 
to  know  how  much  nutritive  matter  in  contained  in  the  differ- 
ent kinds  of  food  given  the  horse.  The  quantity  cannot  be 
considered  as  expressing  the  actual  value  of  each,  because 
other  circumstances  beside  the  simple  quantity  of  nutriment 
seem  to  influence  their  effect  in  supporting  the  strength  and 
condition  of  the  horse.  Yet  many  a  useful  hint  may  be  learned 
when  the  farmer  looks  over  the  produce  of  his  soil.  The  list 
is  taken  from  Sir  Humphrey  Davy's  Agricultural  Chemistry : 

1000  parts  of  wheat  contain  955  parts  of  nutritive  matter. 


barley       " 
oats 

950 

744 

peas 
beans        " 

573 

570 

potatoes    " 
red-beets  " 

230 
148 

parsnips    " 
carrots      " 

99 
98 

Of  the  grasses,  1000  parts  of  the  meadow  catstail  contains, 
at  the  time  of  seeding,  98  parts  of  nutritive  matter;  narrow- 
leaved  meadow  grass  in  seed,  and  sweet-scented  soft  grass  in 
flower,  95;  narrow  leaved  and  flat-stalked  meadow  grass  in 
flower,  fertile  weadow  grass  in  seed,  and  talefescue  in  flower 
93 ;  creeping  soft  grass  in  flower,  78 ;  common  turnips,  42 ; 
long-rooted  clover,  39;  white  clover  32;  and  lucerne  23. 


82  THE  HORSE 

To   Cure  Cribbing 

If  caused  by  irritation  of  the  teeth  growing  too  near  together 
saw  between  the  upper  and  lower  front  teeth.  If  a  simple 
habit,  arrange  the  stall  so  as  to  make  it  impossible  for  him  to 
crib.  This  you  can  do  by  making  the  stall  plain,  with  a  simple 
box  manger  in  front,  rather  low,  but  extending  the  whole 
width  of  the  stall.  Immediately  over  the  front  edge  of  this 
plain  box  manger,  hang  a  roller  of  about  six  or  seven  inches 
in  diameter,  on  pivots,  which  must  be  so  arranged  that  it  will 
turn  easily.  This  roller,  extending  clear  across  the  manger, 
offers  the  only  means  within  reach  on  which  to  crib.  The 
horse,  in  cribbing,  will  press  the  front  teeth  firmly  upon  this 
roller,  pulling  down  and  towards  him,  which  causes  the  roller 
to  turn  from  under  his  mouth,  and  he  is  defeated  in  his  efforts. 
There  is  no  trouble  in  breaking  a  young  horse  of  this  habit  by 
this  means.  A  very  good  way  is  to  feed  a  horse  from  a  basket 
hung  loosely  by  a  cord  to  something  overhead.  The  roller, 
properly  adjusted,  is  however,  much  the  best  means. 

To  Prevent  Horses  Jumpinc; 

Have  a  good  firm  strap  halter  made  that  will  fit  the  horse 
nicely,  with  a  wide  strap  stitched  to  each  side  so  as  to  come 
over  the  eyes.  Cut  holes  in  this  strap  over  each  eye ;  over  these 
eye-holes  put  fine  wire-cloth,  supported  nicely  by  wires,  so 
that  it  can  not  possibly  touch  the  eyes.  Before  a  horse  at- 
tempts jumping  over  a  fence,  he  will  put  his  head  over  to 
calculate  upon  the  height  and  distance  he  is  about  to  jump ;  but 
by  looking  through  this  wire-cloth  everything  is  so  magnified 
in  appearance,  that  he  is  disconcerted  in  his  efforts  to  do  so, 
and  is  afraid  to  jump. 

Bofs  or  Grubs 

There  are  a  great  many  horses  lost  with  this  disease.  It  is 
impossible  to  put  anything  down  a  horse  to  kill  a  bot,  that 
would  not  kill  the  horse.  I  will  take  what  the  most  of  farriers 
will  prescribe  for  this  disease,  and  kill  any  horse  in  three  or 
four  days,  and  will  give  you  reasons  for  it.  First,  a  bot  never 
works  when  the  stomach  is  in  order;  as  soon  as  the  gasses 
of  the  stomach  become  deranged,  the  bot  goes  to  work — and 
you  can  derange  the  stomach  by  giving  strong  medicine.  The 
bot  goes  to  work  in  the  maw ;  after  he  gets  worked  in  a  short 
distance,  you  can  put  nothing  there  that  he  can  taste,  without 
letting  loose  from  the  maw;  and  by  giving  strong  medicine, 
anything  that  has  any  tendency  to  burn  or  hurt  the  bot,  he 
would  work  into  the  maw  to  get  rid  of  the  medicine;  and  if 
you  put  any  sweets  down,  the  bot  could  not  eat  it,  because 
his  head  is  in. 


THE  HORSE  83 

Now,  I  will  give  you  a  sure  and  positive  cure  for  this  dis- 
ease. Take  a  bucket  half  full  of  hot  water ;  then  procure  a 
quart  bottle;  set  the  bottle  down  in  the  hot  water;  then  bleed 
the  horse  in  the  neck  vein,  and  let  the  blood  run  into  the  bot- 
tle. When  full,  drench  the  horse  with  this  hot  blood.  The 
blood  goes  to  the  maw  so  much  hotter  than  the  natural 
stomach,  that  the  bot  becomes  relaxed  and  lets  loose.  He  then 
sucks  his  fill  of  this  sweet  blood,  and  passes  off  from  the 
horse. 

Quinsy 

The  symptoms  of  this  disease  are  something  like  inflamma- 
tion of  the  lung — difficulty  of  breathing,  eyes  inflamed,  nos- 
trils distended,  breath  quick  and  short ;  he  stands  with  his 
head  down,  and  has  no  disposition  to  move  about,  and  you 
will  hear  a  rattling  in  the  throat,  caused  by  an  accumulation 
of  mucous  matter  in  the  glotis  or  throttle,  which  becomes 
swollen  so  as  to  be  perceivable  on  the  outside  of  the  throat.  A 
horse  with  this  disease  sometimes  has  an  inclination  to  eat, 
but  with  the  lung  fever — never.  Quinsy  is  entirely  an  affec- 
tion of  the  glands  of  the  head  and  throat  distinct  from  the 
lungs. 

Cure. — Take  one  ounce  pulverized  aloes,  to  one  half  ounce 
oil  of  sassafras,  mix  with  a  little  flour  to  make  it  thick,  and 
then  make  into  balls  the  size  of  a  black  walnut,  or  the  yolk  of 
an  egg — this  quantity  is  for  a  dose.  Open  the  mouth,  pull 
out  the  tongue,  put  the  ball  on  the  roots  of  the  tongue,  this  is 
the  easiest  way  to  give  the  medicine.  A  thick  heavy  blister 
should  be  drawn  on  the  throat,  and  a  mustard  or  fly  poultice 
to  draw  the  inflammation  to  the  surface.  Bathe  the  limbs  with 
hot  water,  and  bandage  them  from  the  hoof  to  the  knee ;  bathe 
three  or  four  times  a  day.  When  he  has  a  disposition  to  eat, 
give  a  mash  of  scalded  wheat  bran — two  quarts  twice  a  day. 
Give  no  hay  or  grain  for  three  or  four  days ;  then  if  he  breathes 
easy  you  can  increase  the  feed.  Keep  the  horse  from  the  wind 
and  well  blanketed. 

Distemper 

This  is  a  disease  that  all  colts  are  liable  to ;  and,  if  taken  in 
time,  there  will  be  no  danger  of  swelling  in  the  throat.  This 
frequetly  causes  thick  wind.  By  distempers  breaking  in  the 
throat,  it  becomes  a  callous  where  the  opening  in  the  htorat 
was ;  then  by  choking  the  horse  there  is  not  room  for  the  wind, 
and  he  wheezes ;  but  as  soon  as  he  stops,  he  breathes  easy 
again.  When  this  disease  first  makes  its  appearance,  bleed 
freely  from  neck  vein ;  then  give  from  a  half  to  one  pint  of 
linseed  oil,  with  three  drachms  of  sassafras  oil;  this  thins 
and  purifies  the  blood. 


»4  THE  HORSE 

There  are  two  different  modes  of  nicking.  I  will  give  the 
best  and  easiest.  To  make  a  horse  carry  an  elegant  tail  is 
attended  with  some  uncertainty.  It  much  depends  upon  the 
spirit,  disposition,  form  and  vigor  of  the  bone  of  the  tail,  etc. 
A  horse  that  has  good  spirits,  tolerable  shape,  and  a  small 
bone  in  the  tail  can  be  made  to  carry  an  elegant  tail  with  the 
greatest  ease,  particularly  if  he  carries  a  tolerable  natural 
tail;  but  a  dull,  leather-headed,  flop  eared  horse,  with  a  re- 
markably large  bone  in  the  tail,  will  set  you  a  task  although 
you  break  the  bone  in  two  or  three  places.  Indeed,  there  is  so 
much  difference  in  horses,  that  a  great  deal  of  judgment  must 
be  exercised  about  the  best  mode  to  be  adopted  for  the  accom- 
plishment of  the  object  in  view. 

Nothing  can  more  disfigure  the  appearance  of  a  horse  than 
to  be  half  nicked.  The  form  of  the  tail,  when  this  unfortu- 
nately happens,  depart  from  the  simplicity  of  nature,  and  never 
attains  the  elegance  of  art, 

I  shall  now  proceed  to  the  best  method  of  nicking  every 
description  of  horse,  and  which,  if  well  attended  to,  will 
seldom  or  never  fail  to  succeed.  The  horse  should  be  con- 
fined in  stocks  fitted  for  that  purpose.  The  tail  then  should 
be  plaited  up,  and  clubbed  at  the  end,  turned  over  a  small 
stick  and  securely  tied  with  a  string.  Being  provided  with 
a  knife  made  for  that  purpose,  turn  the  tail  up  within  a 
direct  line  with  the  back ;  commence  the  operation  by  mak- 
in  an  incision  about  one  inch  from  the  rump  close  to  the 
hair,  cut  the  cords  in  one  place  on  each  side,  leaving  an  in- 
cision only  the  size  of  the  knife  blade ;  be  very  careful  not  to 
touch  the  bone  with  the  knife,  for  if  so,  it  would  create  in- 
flammation, and  the  hair  would  come  out.  Great  pains  should 
be  taken  to  have  the  weights  equal,  in  order  to  keep  the  tail 
in  a  perpendicular  direction,  and  prevent  it  from  turning  to 
either  side  during  the  time  of  healing,  as  a  horse  that  carries 
his  tail  to  one  side,  instead  of  being  elegantly  nicked,  is 
ruined. 

The  horse  many  times  turns  a  crooked  tail  before  he  has 
been  nicked.  To  straighten  the  tail,  cut  the  top  cord — the 
under  cord  depresses  the  tail,  and  the  top  one  raises  it.  When 
standing,  the  tail  is  straight ;  you  will  see  at  once  that  it  is  the 
top  cord.  In  cutting  the  cord  to  straighten,  cut  the  long  cord, 
and  the  short  cord  will  pass  by  on  a  lap  and  grow  together, 
leaving  the  tail  as  strong  as  ever.  Pulling  in  not  required  in 
straightening  the  tail. 

Scours 

This  is  a  disease  which  requires  no  description — ^you  will 
know  it  when  it  comes.     It  is  the  same  as  cholera  in  a  man  but 


THE  HORSE  85 

is  very  easy  to  manage.  In  a  warm  climate  it  is  very  danger- 
ous, as  two-thirds  of  the  horses  taken  with  it,  die  in  three  or 
four  days. 

Cure. — Boil  red  or  white  oak  bark  to  a  strong  ooze ;  put  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  to  one  quart  of  this  decoc- 
tion ;  give  to  drink  or  as  a  drench — then  use  the  bark  water 
for  injection.  Keep  this  up  until  the  purging  is  stopped,  then 
give  a  mash  of  scalded  wheat  bran  twice  a  day.  Give  no  hay 
or  grain,  or  you  will  cause  a  relapse.  He  will  have  a  good  ap- 
petite, but  be  very  careful  for  several  days,  and  when  you 
commence  feeding,  feed  very  light.      A  positive  cure. 

Blind  Staggers 

The  cause  of  this  disease  is  too  much  food  and  water.  In 
giving  as  much  as  a  horse  can  eat,  then  give  as  much  water  as 
he  will  drink,  in  driving,  the  grain  becomes  swollen  and  the 
stomach  distended  by  undigested  food.  The  distention  of  the 
stomach  prevents  the  passage  of  the  blood,  which  causes  it  to 
flow  to  the  head,  and  makes  him  crazy  and  blind.  Sometimes 
he  will  fall  back,  at  other  times  run,  and  is  apt  to  run  oflF  from 
a  bluflf  or  against  any  object  that  may  be  in  his  way. 

Cure. — If  the  disease  is  in  its  worst  stages,  split  the  skin  of 
the  forehead  and  fill  with  salt  and  black  pepper;  then,  if  you 
can  get  sassafras  roots,  boil  to  a  tea,  give  one  gallon  twice  a 
day,  bleed  one  gallon  from  the  neck  vein.  Feed  light  with 
bran  mash ;  do  not  use  any  very  hearty  food  for  two  weeks. 
This  is  a  sure  cure. 

Weakness  Across  the  Loins 

This  originates  many  times  from  a  stoppage  of  water.  It  is 
not  always  what  would  be  called  gravel,  it  may  be  from  con- 
traction of  the  muscles  across  the  loins.  The  more  the  horse 
strains,  the  more  contraction  it  would  cause.  He  becomes 
stifiF,  and  it  is  difficult  for  him  to  move  his  hind  parts. 

Cure. — Give  one  ounce  of  pulverized  aloes ;  one  ounce  sweet 
spirits  of  nitre,  one  ounce  oil  sassafras..  Give  this  as  one  dose 
after  making  into  small  balls.  Then  bathe  the  loins  with  hot 
pepper  sauce.  Blanket  the  horse  well,  putting  several  thick- 
nesses over  the  loins.  As  soon  as  he  can  stand,  give  two 
quarts  bran  mash,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  rosin. 
Give  this  for  two  or  three  days,  and  keep  the  loins  as  warm  as 
possible.  Also  use  a  liniment,  origanum,  two  ounces,  oil  of 
sassafras  two  ounces ;  spirit  of  turpentine  two  ounces,  well 
mixed  together,  and  bathe  the  loins  twice  a  day. 


8C  THE  HORSE 

Stocked  or  Swollen  Legs 

This  is  caused  by  sudden  heats  and  colds. 

Cure. — Bathe  the  legs,  from  the  hoof  to  the  knee,  in  as  hot 
water  as  he  will  bear,  and  then  bandage  them;  the  hot  water 
opens  the  pores  and  thins  the  blood,  that  has  become  thick, 
and  will  not  circulate  well.  Make  a  strong  tea  of  sassafras 
roots,  and  give  it  to  drink.  If  not  easily  procured,  give  as  a 
purge  one  pint  of  linseed  or  castor  oil,  half  an  ounce  of  oil  of 
sassafras.  Feed  light,  give  bran  mash  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar  for  a  few  nights. 

To  Cure  Horse  Distemper 

If  the  glands  of  the  neck  are  not  swollen  much,  give  half  of 
a  three  cent  paper  of  smoking  tobacco,  morning  and  evening, 
in  a  warm  bran  mash,  and  give  no  hay,  but  a  little  fine  cut 
straw,  wet,  with  bran  mixed  in.  If  the  glands  of  the  neck  are 
swollen,  then  apply  a  warm  poultice  made  of  wheat  bran  and 
hot  vinegar,  changing  as  often  as  the  poultice  gets  dry  and  be 
sure  to  get  down  all  you  can  of  flaxseed  tea,  or  slippery  elm 
tea  will  answer  the  same  purpose ;  and  let  this  be  his  constant 
drink.  Be  cautious  to  keep  the  horse  from  taking  colds,  in 
any  way,  and  keep  on  a  blanket,  and  thus  you  will  save  many 
a  noble  animal.  Be  cautious  never  to  bleed  your  horse  during 
the  horse  distemper,  or  physic  him  any  more  than  what  you 
will  be  able  to  do  with  the  warm  bran  mash. 

Remedy  for  Bots 

Wliich  will  remove  them  in  a  few  days :  Take  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine eight  ounces,  alcohol  one  quart;  mix  and  bottle  for 
use.  Dose,  five  ounces  in  the  horse's  feed  once  a  day  for  eight 
days,  and  this  will  effectually  remove  the  last  vestige  of  the 
bots. 

For  Inflamed  Swellings  or  Lame  Shoulder 

Equal  parts  oil  of  amber,  oil  of  spike,  camphor  gum,  ether. 

To  Cure  Heoves 

Oil  tar,  1  oz. ;  oil  amber  1  oz.  Mix  and  give  15  or  20  drops 
in  feed  daily. 

Physic  Ball 

Barbadoes  aloes,  1  lb.,  syrup  buckthorn,  3  ounces,  cod  liver 


THE  HORSE  87 

oil,  3  ounces,  melt  the  whole  and  stir  till  cold.  In  winter,  add 
a  little  water,  make  into  eighteen  pills  and  give  one  every  four 
hours,  or  as  much  as  will  move  the  bowels. 

Diuretic  Drops 

That  are  reliable  for  stoppage  of  water,  foul  water,  or  inflam- 
mation of  the  kidneys  in  all  cases. 

Take  of  sweet  spirits  of  nitre  4  ounces,  balsam  copavia,  2 
ounces,  oil  juniper  two  ounces,  spirits  of  turpentine  two  ounces 
gum  camphor  pulverized  one  ounce,  mix  all  together,  and 
shake  well,  bottle  and  it  is  ready  for  use,  for  man  or  beast,  un- 
der all  circumstances  where  a  diuretic  is  required. 

Dose. — For  a  horse  one  ounce,  in  half  a  pint  of  milk  once 
in  six  hours,  for  a  man  one  teaspoonful  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
milk  once  in  six  hours.  Be  sure  to  shake  the  ingredients  up 
well  before  turning  out  for  use. 

Colic 

This  is  caused  by  giving  too  much  feed  and  water,  or  by 
watering  often  on  the  road.  The  water  reduces  the  juices  of 
the  stomach,  disabling  digestion  and  causing  the  grain  to  swell 
generates  a  gas  in  the  stomach,  which,  passing  into  the  bowels 
causes  the  acute  pain  of  Colic.  He  becomes  restive,  lies  down, 
rolls  about  and  gives  many  signs  of  pain.  Many  times  the 
horse  has  bots  and  colic  at  the  same  time,  the  only  difference 
in  the  symptoms  being  that  in  colic  the  ears  are  cold,  and  in 
bots  they  are  warm. 

Cure. — Take  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  laudanum,  one  ounce 
of  ether,  two  tablespoonfuls  soda,  in  half  pint  of  warm  water, 
give  as  a  drench.  Do  not  exercise  the  horse  with  this  disease, 
as  exercise  causes  the  gases  to  move  from  one  part  of  the  bowels 
to  another,  each  time  causing  pain,  therefore  keep  him  as  quiet 
as  possible. 

Fistula  and  Polevil 

These  diseases  are  both  of  the  same  nature,  caused  by  a 
bruise,  and  the  other  part  becomes  swollen,  and  a  mattery 
substance  forms  in  the  flesh;  and,  as  the  disease  becomes  seat- 
ed, it  fills  in  with  pips  and  roots  and  increases  the  inflamma- 
tion. When  this  disease  first  makes  its  appearance,  it  can  be 
driven  away  by  blistering,  and  drawing  the  inflammation  to 
one  point ;  but  after  it  forms  in  roots,  or  pips,  the  only  way  of 
getting  rid  of  it  is  to  eat  out  or  kill  the  roots  of  the  disease. 

The  most  effectual  way  of  doing  this  is  to  take  of  euphor- 
bium  pulxerized  one  ounce ;  Spanish  flies  pulverized  one  half 
ounce ;  tincture  of  cantharides  one  half  ounce  ;  iodine  one  ounce  ; 


88  THE  HORSE 

corrosive  sublimate,  one  ounce;  red  precipitate,  one  ounce; 
white  pine  turpentine,  one  ounce  and  a  half;  lard,  one  ounce 
and  a  half.  Melt  the  lard  and  turpentine  together,  and  when 
it  becomes  blood  warm,  as  it  is  cooling  off,  add  the  other  arti- 
cles. Use  a  large  dish  to  mix  them  in,  for  when  you  put  them 
together  the  mixture  will  foam ;  stir  until  cool,  it  is  then  ready 
for  use.  If  the  sore  has  not  broken,  use  it  on  the  outside  un- 
til you  draw  the  disease  to  the  surface.  If  it  has  broken, 
put  the  salve  in  the  wound,  it  will  eat  out  all  of  the  diseased 
flesh.  When  you  wish  to  heal  the  wound,  wash  clean  with 
soap,  then  use  as  a  salve,  powdered  rosin  and  honey,  the  best 
healing  salve  for  horse  flesh  ever  used. 


FARMERS    AND    STOCK    OWNERS'  DEPARTMENT 

Rarey's  Directions  for  Breaking  and  Training  of 
Horses. — In  training  horses  you  must  remember  that  there  are 
certain  natural  laws  that  govern  them.  For  instance,  it  is 
natural  for  him  to  kick  whenever  he  gets  badly  frightened ;  it  is 
natural  for  him  to  escape  from  whatever  he  thinks  will  do  him 
harm.  His  faculties  of  seeing,  hearing  and  smelling,  have  been 
given  him  to  examine  everything  new  that  he  is  brought  in  con- 
tact with.  And  so  long  as  you  present  him  with  nothing  that 
offends  his  eyes,  nose  or  ears,  you  can  then  handle  him  at  will, 
notwithstanding  he  may  be  frightened  at  first,  so  that  in  a 
short  time  he  will  not  be  afraid  of  anything  he  is  brought  in 
contact  with.  All  of  the  whipping  and  spurring  of  horses  for 
shying,  stumbling,  etc.,  is  useless  and  cruel.  If  he  shys,  and 
you  whip  him  for  it,  it  only  adds  terror,  and  makes  the  object 
larger  than  it  would  otherwise  be ;  give  him  time  to  examine  it 
without  punishing  him.  He  should  never  be  hit  with  the  whip 
under  any  circumstances,  or  for  anything  that  he  does.  As  to 
smelling  oil,  there  is  nothing  that  assists  the  trainer  to  tame 
his  horse  better.  It  is  better  to  approach  a  colt  with  the  scent 
of  honey  or  cinnamon  upon  your  hand,  than  the  scent  of  hogs 
for  horses  naturally  fear  the  scent  of  hogs,  and  will  attempt  to 
escape  from  it,  while  they  like  the  scent  of  honey,  cinnamon, 
or  salt.  To  affect  a  horse  with  drugs  you  must  give  him  some 
preparation  of  opium,  and  while  he  is  under  the  influence  of  it 
you  cannot  teach  him  anything  more  than  a  man  when  he  is 
intoxicated  with  liquor.  Another  thing,  you  must  remember 
to  treat  him  kindly,  for  where  you  require  obedience  from  any 
subject,  it  is  better  to  have  ii  rendered  from  a  sense  of  love 
than  fear.     You  should  be  careful  not  to  chafe  the  lips  of  your 


THE  HORSE  89 

colt  or  hurt  his  mouth  in  any  way,  if  you  do  he  will  dislike  to 
have  the  bridle  on.  After  he  is  taught  to  follow  you,  then  put 
on  the  harness,  putting  your  lines  through  the  shaft  straps 
along  the  side,  and  teach  him  to  yield  to  the  reins,  turn  short 
to  the  right  and  left,  teach  him  to  stand  still  before  he  is  ever 
hitched  up ;  you  then  have  control  over  him.  If  he  gets  fright- 
ened, the  lines  should  be  used  as  a  telegraph,  to  let  him  know 
what  you  want  him  to  do.  No  horse  is  naturally  vicious,  but 
always  obeys  his  trainer  as  soon  as  he  comprehends  what  he 
would  have  him  do ;  you  must  be  firm  with  him  at  the  same 
time,  and  give  him  to  understand  that  you  are  the  trainer,  and 
that  he  is  the  horse.  The  best  bits  to  be  used  to  hold  a  horse, 
to  keep  his  mouth  from  getting  sore,  is  a  straight  bar-bit,  4-1/8 
inches  long  between  the  rings ;  this  operates  on  both  sides  of 
the  jaw,  while  the  ordinary  snaffle  forms  a  clamp  and  presses 
the  side  of  the  jaw.  The  curb  or  bridoon  hurts  his  under  jaw 
so  that  he  will  stop  before  he  will  give  to  the  rein.  To  throw 
a  horse,  put  a  rope  12  feet  long  around  his  body  in  a  running 
noose,  pass  it  down  to  the  right  fore  foot  through  a  ring  in  a 
spancil,  then  buckle  up  the  left  or  near  fore  foot,  take  a  firm 
hold  of  your  rope,  lead  him  around  until  he  is  tired,  give  him 
a  shove  with  your  shoulder,  at  the  same  time  drawing  up  the 
right  foot  which  brings  him  on  his  knees,  hold  him  steady,  and 
in  a  few  moments  he  will  lie  down.  Never  attempt  to  hold 
him  still,  for  the  more  he  scuffles  the  better. 

Take  your  colt  into  a  tight  room  or  pen,  and  with  a  long 
whip  commence  snapping  at  the  colt's  hind  leg,  taking  care  not 
to  hit  above  the  hocks,  stopping  immediately  when  the  colt 
turns  his  head  towards  you ;  while  his  head  is  tovi^ards  you, 
approach  him  with  the  left  hand  extended  towards  him,  hold- 
ing your  whip  in  the  right  ready  to  snap  him  as  soon  as  he 
turns  his  head  from  you.  In  this  way  you  can  soon  get  your 
hands  upon  him.  As  soon  as  you  have  done  this,  be  careful  to 
caress  him  for  his  obedience,  and  snap  him  for  disobedience. 
In  this  way  he  will  soon  learn  that  he  is  safest  in  your  presence 
with  his  head  towards  you,  and  in  a  very  short  time  you  can- 
not keep  him  from  you.  Speak  kindly  and  firmly  to  him  all 
the  time  caressing  him,  calling  by  name,  and  saying,  "Ho, 
boy,"  or  "Ho,  Diana,"  or  some  familiar  word  that  he  will 
soon  learn. 

If  a  colt  is  awkward  and  careless  at  first,  you  must  bear  with 
him,  remembering  that  we  too,  were  awkward  when  young ;  al- 
lowing him  his  own  way,  until  by  degrees  he  will  come  in.  If 
he  is  wilful,  you  must  then  change  your  course  of  treatment, 
by  confining  him  in  such  a  way  that  he  is  powerless  for  harm 
until  he  submits.  If  he  is  disposed  to  run,  use  my  pole  check 
on  him ;  if  to  kick,  fasten  a  rope  around  his  under  jaw,  pass  it 


90  THE  HORSE 

through  the  collar  and  attach  it  to  his  hind  feet.  In  this  way 
one  kick  will  cure  him,  as  the  force  of  the  blow  falls  on  the 
jaw.  If  he  should  be  stubborn,  lay  him  down  and  confine  him 
until  you  subdue  him,  without  punishing  him  with  the 
whip. 

Colts  should  be  broken  without  blind-bridles ;  after  they  are 
well  broke,  then  you  may  put  on  blinds.  Bridles  without 
blinds  are  the  best  unless  you  want  to  speed  your  horse,  then 
it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  him  from  seeing  the  whip.  Colts 
should  be  well  handled  and  taught  to  give  readily  to  the  rein 
before  they  are  hitched  up.  If  you  hitch  them  up  the  first 
thing  and  they  become  frightened,  then  you  have  no  control 
over  them;  but  if  you  teach  them  to  start,  stop,  and  stand  at 
the  word  before  they  are  hitched,  then  you  can  govern  them. 

Cruelty  to  Horses — Besides  the  cruel  punishment  inflicted 
upon  horses  by  the  careless  and  heartless  driver,  he  is  subject- 
ed to  severe  punishment  in  the  winter  season,  by  being  com- 
pelled to  take  frozen  bits  into  his  mouth  in  cold  weather,  tear- 
ing the  skin  from  the  tongue  and  the  roof  of  his  mouth,  pro- 
ducing a  heavy  inflammation  in  the  mouth  and  throat;  he  gets 
poor,  hidebound,  and  the  sympathetic  nerves  of  the  head  take 
up  the  inflammation,  carry  it  to  the  head  and  eyes,  frequently 
producing  blindness,  and  a  hundred  other  diseases.  The  whip 
should  be  used  as  an  instrument  of  pleasure  instead  of  tor- 
ture;  and  your  bits  should  be  wound  with  flannel  or  leather, 
so  that  no  frozen  iron  will  come  in  contact  with  his  mouth, 
lips  or  tongue. 

Rarey's  Liniment. Sulphuric  ether,  4  ounces ;  hartshorn, 

4  ounces ;  oil  of  origanum,  4  ounces ;  alcohol,  4  ounces ;  sweet 
oil,  4  ounces.  Shake  well  before  using.  For  sprains  on  horses 
etc.,  apply  by  rubbing  and  cover  with  a  tight  flannel  bandage. 
For  headache,  rub  a  little  on  the  temples  and  apply  a  bandage 
wet  with  the  liniment  to  the  forehead. 

Rarey's  Wizard  Oil. — Oil  of  origanum,  6  ounces  alcohol,  6 
ounces,  spirits  turpentine,  1  ounce ;  camphor,  1  ounce.  Shake 
well  before  using. 

Rarey's  Directions  for  Shoeing  Horses. — "There  are  very 
few  blacksmiths  that  ever  once  think  what  a  complicated  piece 
of  machinery  the  foot  of  a  horse  is,  and  by  one  careless  blow 
they  frequently  stop  the  working  of  this  machine.  The  ma- 
jority of  smiths,  as  soon  as  they  pick  up  a  horse's  foot,  go  to 
work  paring  the  heel,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  most  conven- 
ient part  of  the  foot,  and  thereby  destroy  the  heel  and  braces 
of  the  foot,  causing,  in  many  instances,  contracted  heels.  The 
heels  of  a  horse  should  be  well  kept  up  and  the  toe  down.  By 
lowering  the  heels  you  throw  the  entire  weight  of  your  horse 
upon  the  back  tendon  of  the  legs,  and  thereby  produce  lame- 


THE  HORSE  91 

ness  from  overtaxing  a  very  important  set  of  tendons.  By 
keeping  up  the  heel  you  throw  the  weight  upon  the  wall  of  the 
foot.  In  this  position  you  prevent  stumbling,  clicking,  etc. 
Next  the  shoer  commences  to  pare  a.way  the  sole,  thins  it  down 
until  he  can  feel  it  spring  with  his  thumb.  Ask  him  why  he 
does  this,  and  he  gives  you  no  reason,  except  from  custom ; 
next  comes  the  bars  or  braces  of  the  foot,  they  are  smoothed 
down ;  next  in  his  ruinous  course,  comes  the  frogs  of  the  feet, 
they  are  subjected  to  the  same  cutting  and  smoothing  process. 
All  the  cutting,  paring,  and  smoothing  of  the  soles,  bars,  or 
frogs  is  a  decided  injury  to  the  horse  as  well  as  to  the  owner. 
All  the  corns  in  the  land  are  produced  by  this  process  of  paring. 
The  frogs  have  been  placed  in  the  foot  by  nature  to  expand  the 
wall  of  the  foot,  and  as  soon  as  you  commence  to  cut  it,  the 
oily  substance  commences  to  leak  out,  it  drys  up,  becomes 
hard,  losing  its  oily  substances,  makes  the  wall  hard  and  dry, 
inducing  it  to  crack.  The  nerves  of  the  feet  are  very  sensitive 
and  smiths  should  be  very  careful  not  to  prick  the  foot,  as  it 
requires  quite  a  time  to  relieve  them.  The  foot  i3  a  very  com- 
plicated piece  of  machinery,  and  if  you  keep  a  horse  well  shod 
and  his  feet  in  good  condition,  you  can  then  generally  manage 
the  balance.  The  feet  suffer  from  being  kept  too  dry.  Horses 
that  stand  on  board  floors  should  have  their  feet  wet  every  day 
or  there  should  be  a  vat  five  inches  deep,  five  feet  long,  and 
three  wide,  filled  with  water  and  clay,  in  which  each  horse  can 
stand  for  one  hour  per  week,  unless  his  feet  are  feverish,  then 
he  should  be  kept  in  it  one  hour  per  day,  or  until  the  fever 
subsides.  Another  source  of  injury  to  horses'  feet,  is  the  habit 
of  patronizing  cheap  blacksmiths.  If  a  man  can  drive  a  nail, 
he  then  sets  up  a  sign  as  a  farrier  or  a  veterinary  surgeon, 
when  in  fact  he  knows  nothing  of  the  anatomy  of  the  horse's 
foot,  not  having  spent  any  time  or  money  in  acquiring  the 
necessary  information,  he  can  afford  to  shoe  a  few  shillings 
cheaper  than  a  well  informed  man,  but  the  patrons  of  such 
cheap  shoeing  are  generally  the  sufferers.  All  horseshoers 
should  be  a  well  skilled  veterinary  surgeon,  or  there  should  be 
a  skillful  surgeon  attached  to  every  shop.  Another  source  of 
poor  shoeing  and  injury  is  the  loss  of  elasticity  of  the  frog,  re- 
fusing to  perform  its  proper  functions ;  the  heel  contracts,  the 
foot  rolls,  and  you  have  a  sore  horse  for  ten  or  twelve  months, 
for  it  requires  this  long  to  relieve  a  horse's  suffering  from  being 
badly  shod. 

Under  the  circumstances,  the  first "  thing  that  touches  the 
road  or  the  floor  of  the  stall,  should  be  the  frog,  and  the  wall 
of  the  foot  should  be  kept  cut  so  as  not  to  prevent  it  from 
touching  at  every  step ;  and  no  man  that  owns  a  horse  should 
ever  allow  a  blacksmith  to  cut  the  soles,  bars,  or  frogs  of  his 


92  THE  HORSE 

horse's  feet.  Nature  has  adapted  the  frogs  to  all  description 
of  roads,  climates,  and  weather,  without  being  pared.  So 
many  horses  have  been  ruined  by  this  process  of  paring,  that 
there  are  now  several  establishments  in  this  country,  that  man- 
ufacture India  Rubber  pads,  thinking  thereby  to  supply  the 
wasted  frog  and  the  elasticity  of  the  natural  foot  The  frog  is 
insensible  to  pressure,  and  you  may  place  the  whole  weight  of 
your  horse  on  the  frog  and  he  will  suffer  no  inconvenience,  as 
may  be  seen  from  shoeing  with  one  of  my  com  shoes ;  besides 
this  is  the  only  reliable  way  to  cure  contracted  feet ;  by  throw- 
ing the  weight  upon  the  frog,  you  force  them  up  between  the 
walls ;  it  acts  as  a  wedge  and  soon  relieves  the  contracted  feet. 
Smiths  should  never  have  their  shoes  hot  when  fitting  them 
as  the  application  of  hot  iron  extracts  the  oily  substance  from 
the  hoof.  The  amount  of  cruel  punishment  inflicted  on  horses 
by  cross  grained  blacksmiths  is  another  source  of  poor  shoeing. 
As  soon  as  the  horse  does  not  stand,  the  smith  gets  angry,  and 
commences  whipping  and  jerking  the  animal,  which  only  adds 
terror  to  it,  so  that  he  soon  refuses  to  go  to  the  shop  if  he  can 
avoid  it;  it  is  natural  for  horses  to  dislike  to  be  shod,  because 
the  hammering  shocks  the  nervous  system,  until  they  are  ac- 
customed to  it.  He  should  be  taught  to  stand,  and  his  feet 
well  handled  at  home,  before  he  is  ever  brought  to  the  shop  by 
the  owner.  You  then  save  the  horse  pounding,  and  the  smith 
an  immense  amount  of  labor  that  he  never  gets  any  pay  for,  for 
no  man  ever  thinks  of  paying  anything  extra  for  shoeing  a  bad 
horse.  The  wall  of  the  foot  should  never  be  rasped  above  the 
nail  holes,  and  as  little  below  the  clenches  as  possible;  all  the 
rasping  and  filing  but  tends  to  thin  and  weaken  the  wall  by 
cutting  the  fibers  of  the  foot.  The  nails  should  be  counter- 
sunk into  the  shoe,  so  that  there  will  be  no  chance  for  the 
clenches  to  rife.  No  horse  interferes  with  the  heel  or  toe;  it 
is  always  the  side  of  the  foot.  The  habit  of  turning  the  inside 
of  the  shoe  under  causes  a  number  of  horses  to  interfere,  that 
would  not  if  they  were  shod  straight  in  the  inside.  Spread  the 
heels  as  wide  as  possible ;  set  the  outside  a  little  under ;  keep 
the  toes  full.  For  clicking  horses,  raise  the  heels  high,  cut 
the  toes  short.  For  speedy  cuts  place  your  toe  corks  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  to  the  inside  of  the  centre  of  your  shoe;  keep  the 
heels  wide  apart.  For  corns,  put  on  a  shoe  with  a  prong,  for 
the  main  rim,  so  as  to  cover  the  entire  frog,  pare  the  wall  lower 
than  the  frog,so  as  his  entire  weight  will  be  thrown  on  the  frog. 

Have  the  inner  cork  not  quite  so  sharp  as  the  outer  one,  so 
that  if  he  steps  upon  the  other  foot  it  will  not  cut  it;  make  the 
shoes  as  light  as  possible  consistent  with  good  service,  as  they 
are  ordinarily  made  just  about  one-third  too  heavy." 

To   Prevent   Horses   Kicking   in   the   Stall. — Fasten   a 


THE  HORSE  93 

short  trace  chain  about  2  feet  long,  by  a  strap  to  each  hind  foot. 
A  better  way  is  to  have  the  stalls  made  wide  enough  so  that 
the  horse  can  turn  in  them  easily.  Close  them  with  a  door  or 
bars,  and  turn  the  animal  loose.  After  a  while  he  will  forget 
the  habit,  and  stand  tied  without  further  trouble. 

To  Cure  Broken  Legs. — Instead  of  summarily  shooting 
the  horse,  in  the  greater  number  of  fractures  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  partially  sling  the  horse  by  means  of  a  broad  piece  of 
sail,  or  other  strong  cloth  placed  under  the  animal's  belly, 
furnished  with  two  breechings  and  two  breast  girths,  and  by 
means  of  ropes  and  pulleys  attached  to  a  cross  beam  above,  he 
is  elevated,  or  lowered,  as  may  be  required.  By  adoption 
of  this  plan  every  facility  is  allowed  for  the  satisfactory  treat- 
ment of  fractures. 

Lampas. — This  consists  in  a  swelling  of  the  first  bar  of  the 
upper  palate.  It  is  cured  by  rubbing  the  swelling  two  or  three 
times  a  day  with  one-half  ounce  of  alum  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  double  refined  sugar  mixed  with  a  little  honey. 

Gravel, — Steep  one-half  pound  of  hops  in  a  quart  of  water 
and  give  it  as  hot  as  the  horse  can  stand  it. 

Halter  Pulling. — A  new  way  to  prevent  horses  pulling  at 
the  halter  is  to  put  a  very  small  rope  under  the  horse's  tail 
bringing  the  ends  forward,  crossing  them  on  the  back,  and  ty- 
ing them  on  the  breast.  Put  the  halter  strap  through  the  ring, 
and  tie  the  rope  in  front  of  the  horse.  When  the  horse  pulls, 
he  will,  of  course,  find  himself  in  rather  an  uncomfortbale  po- 
sition, and  discontinue  the  effort  to  free  himself. 

Hide  Bound. — To  recruit  a  hide  bound  horse,  give  nitrate 
potassa  (or  saltpetre)  4  ounces,  crude  antimony  1  ounce,  sul- 
phur 3  ounces.  Nirate  of  potassa  and  antimony  should  be 
finely  pulverized,  then  add  the  sulphur,  and  mix  the  whole 
well  together.  Dose,  a  tablespoonful  of  this  mixture  in  a  bran 
mash  daily. 

To  Prevent  Horses  From  Jumping. — Pass  a  good  stout 
surcingle  around  his  body;  put  on  his  halter,  and  have  the 
halter  strap  long  enough  to  go  from  his  head,  between  his  fore 
legs,  then  through  the  surcingle,  and  back  to  one  of  his  hind 
legs.  Procure  a  thill  strap,  and  buckle  around  the  leg  between 
the  foot  and  joint,  fasten  the  halter  strap  in  this — shorter  or 
longer,  as  the  obstinacy  of  the  case  may  require.  It  is  also 
useful  to  keep  colts  from  running  where  there  is  likely  to  be 
danger  from  the  result;  if  the  thill  strap  should  cause  any 
soreness  on  the  leg  it  may  be  wound  with  a  woolen  cloth, 
and  it  would  be  well  to  change  it  from  one  leg  to  another 
occasionally. 

Big  Leg. — To  cure,  use  the  "Blistering  Liniment"  with 
regularity  every  third  hour  until   it  blisters.     In  three  days 


94  THE  HORSE 

wash  the  leg  with  linseed  oil.  In  six  days  wash  it  clean  with 
soap  and  water.  Repeat  every  six  days  until  the  swelling  goes 
dov/n.  If  there  should  be  any  callous  left,  apply  spavin  oint- 
ment. 

Sore  Breasts. — This  generally  occurs  in  the  spring,  at  the 
commencement  of  plowing.  At  times  the  fault  is  in  having 
poor  old  collars,  and  not  having  the  collar  well  fitted  to  the 
horse's  breast ;  and  often,  the  hames  are  either  too  tight  or  too 
loose.  There  is  a  great  difference  in  horses  about  getting 
chafed  or  galled,  and  at  times  it  has  seemed  to  be  impossible 
to  keep  their  breasts  from  getting  sore;  but  a  thorough  appli- 
cation of  strong  alum  water  or  white  oak  bark  to  the  breasts  of 
the  animal,  three  days  before  going  to  work,  toughen  them  so 
that  they  will  not  get  sore.  Another  excellent  plan  is,  when 
you  let  your  team  rest  for  a  few  moments  during  work,  to  raise 
the  collar  and  pull  it  a  little  forward,  and  rub  the  breast  thor- 
oughly with  your  naked  hand. 

The  Check  Rein  on  Horses. — We  desire  to  register  an 
earnest  protest  against  this  barbarous  appendage  to  horses* 
harness.  It  retards  the  horse's  progress  in  every  position  both 
while  he  is  at  work,  and  while  travelling  on  a  journey.  It  is 
both  useless  and  cruel  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  without  any 
compensating  qualities  to  recommend  it.  Mr.  Angell,  of  the 
"Boston  Society  for  the  Prevention  of  Cruelty  to  Animals," 
who  has  travelled  over  a  great  part  of  Europe  in  the  interests 
of  humanity  to  our  dumb  servants,  says,  that  the  use  of  the 
check  rein  is  confined  to  America  alone,  being  deservedly  dis- 
carded everywhere  both  in  England  and  on  the  Continent. 
The  reason  why  it  was  discarded,  was  very  graphically  ex- 
plained by  an  extensive  horse  owner  in  Glasgow,  as  he  re- 
marked, in  conversation  with  Mr.  Angell,  that  "We  canna  get 
the  wark  oot'o,  the  horse  wi'  the  check  rein."  To  check 
rein  a  horse,  is  equivalent  to  trussing  a  man's  head  backwards 
towards  his  back  or  heels,  and  compelling  him,  while  bound  in 
this  position,  to  do  duty  with  a  loaded  wheelbarrow. 

Feeding  Horses  on  the  Road. — Many  persons,  in  travel- 
ing, feed  their  horses  too  much,  and  too  often,  continually 
stuffing  them,  and  not  allowing  them  to  rest  and  digest  their 
food;  of  course,  they  suffer  from  over-fullness,  and  carrying 
unnecesary  weight.  Horses  should  be  well  fed  in  the  evening, 
and  must  not  be  stuffed  too  full  in  the  morning,  and  the  trav- 
eling should  be  moderate  on  starting  when  the  horse  has  a 
full  stomach.  If  a  horse  starts  in  good  condition,  he  can  go 
twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  without  feeding.  The  provender 
required  by  horses  while  traveling  or  engaged  in  ordinary 
farm  work,  per  day,  may  be  stated  thus:  Hay  20  pounds,  oats 
three  gallons,  water  four  gallons.     Muddy  water  is  the  best  for 


THE  HORSE  95 

horses.  Beeves  require  twenty  pounds  of  hay  and  six  gallons 
of  water  per  day.  Quantity  will  vary  in  every  case  according 
to  the  size,  condition,  breed,  etc.,  together  with  the  kind  of 
work  in  which  they  are  employed. 

Itch. — To  cure  a  horse  affected  with  itch,  first  reduce  his 
daily  allowance  of  food,  putting  him  on  a  low  diet,  and  then 
give  him  a  teaspoonful  of  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  sulphur 
and  antimony,  and  at  the  end  of  a  week  or  ten  days  the  sores 
will  have  disappeared  and  the  horse  will  be  covered  with  a 
fine  coat  of  new  hair. 

Urine  Stoppage. — Symptoms ;  Frequent  attempts  to  uri- 
nate, looking  around  at  his  sides,  lying  down,  rolling  and 
stretching.  To  cure,  take  half  pound  of  hops,  three  drachms 
oil  of  camphor,  grind  and  mix.  Make  this  into  three  pills. 
Give  one  every  day  with  a  drench  made  of  a  small  spoonful  of 
saltpetre  and  two  ounces  of  water.  This  will  cure  as  a  gen- 
eral thing. 

To  Cure  Balky  Horses. — One  method  to  cure  a  balky 
horse  is  to  take  him  from  the  carriage,  whirl  him  rapidly 
around  till  he  is  giddy.  It  requires  two  men  to  accomplish 
this,  one  at  the  horse's  tail.  Don't  let  him  step  out.  Hold 
him  to  the  smallest  possible  circle.  One  dose  will  cure  him, 
two  doses  are  final  with  the  worst  horse  that  ever  refused  to 
stir.  Another  plan  is  to  fill  his  mouth  with  gravel  from  the 
road,  and  he  will  at  once  go,  the  philosophy  of  this  being  that 
it  gives  him  something  else  to  think  about. 

Dr.  Cole's  King  of  Oils. — One  ounce  green  copperas;  two 
ounces  white  vitriol ;  two  ounces  common  salt ;  two  ounces  lin- 
seed oil ;  eight  ounces  molasses.  Boil  over  a  slow  fire  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  pint  of  urine;  when  almost  cold,  add  one  ounce 
of  oil  of  vitriol  and  four  ounces  spirits  of  turpentine.  Apply 
to  wounds  with  a  feather.    A  very  powerful  linament. 

Sloan's  Horse  Liniment. — Four  ounces  resin;  four  ounces 
bees-wax ;  lard,  eight  ounces ;  honey,  two  ounces.  Mix  slowly 
and  gently,  bring  to  a  boil ;  then  add  less  than  one  pint  spirits 
of  turpentine;  then  remove  and  stir  till  cool.  Unsurpassed  for 
horse  flesh,  cracked  hoofs,  human  flesh,  etc. 

Mexican  Mustang  Liniment. — Petroleum,  olive  oil,  and 
carbonate  of  ammonia,  each,  equal  parts,  and  mix. 

Merchant's  Gargling  Oil. — Take  two  and  a  half  gallons 
linseed  oil ;  two  and  a  half  gallons  spirits  turpentine ;  one  gal- 
lon western  petroleum ;  eight  ounces  liquor  potass. ;  sap  green, 
one  ounce;  mix  all  together,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Arabian  Condition  Powders. — Ground  ginger,  one  pound; 
sulphuret  of  antimony,  one  pound;  powdered  sulphur,  one 
pound;  saltpetre,  one  pound.     Mix  all  together,  and  adminis- 


96  THE  HORSE 

ter  in  a  mash,  in  such  quantities  as  may  be  required.     The 
best  condition  powder  in  existence. 

Blistering  Liniment.  —  One  part  Spanish  flies,  finely 
powdered;  three  of  lard,  and  one  of  yellow  resin.  Mix  the 
lard  and  resin  together,  and  add  the  flies  when  the  other  in- 
gredients begin  to  cool.  To  render  it  more  active,  add  one 
pint  of  spirits  of  turpentine. 

Medicated  Food  for  Horses  and  Cattle. — Take  linseed 
cake  and  pulverize  or  grind  it  up  in  the  shape  of  meal,  and  to 
every  fifty  pounds  of  this  ingredient  add  ten  pounds  Indian 
meal ;  two  pounds  sulphuret  of  antimony ;  two  pounds  ground 
ginger,  one  and  three  quarter  pounds  saltpetre,  and  two 
pounds  powdered  sulphur.  Mix  the  whole  thoroughly  to- 
gether, put  in  neat  boxes  or  packages  for  sale  or  otherwise  as 
desired,  and  you  will  have  an  article  equal  in  value  to  Thorley's 
Food,  or  almost  any  other  preparation  that  can  be  got  up  for 
the  purpsoe  of  fattening  stock  or  curing  disease  in  every  case 
when  food  or  medicine  can  be  of  any  use  whatever.  This 
article  can  be  fed  in  any  desired  quantity,  beginning  with  a 
few  tablespoonfuls  at  a  time,  for  a  horse,  mixing  it  with  his 
grain,  and  in  the  same  proportion  to  smaller  animals,  repeating 
the  dose  and  increasing  the  quantity  as  the  case  may  seem  to 
require. 

Lotion  jor  Mange. — Boil  two  ounces  toacco  in  one  quart 
water;  strain;  add  sulphur  and  soft  soap,  each  two  ounces. 

For  Strains  and  Swellings.— Strong  vinegar  saturated 
with  common  salt,  used  warm,  is  good  for  strains  and  reducing 
swellings.  One  ounce  of  white  vitriol,  one  ounce  of  green 
copperas,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  gunpowder,  all  pulverized  to- 
gether, and  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  soft  water,  and  used  cold, 
rubbing  in  thoroughly,  is  one  of  the  best  applications  known 
for  reducing  swellings. 

HooF-BouND  Wash. — Spirits  turpentine  four  ounces,  tar 
four  ounces,  whale  oil,  eight  ounces.  Mix  and  apply  to  the 
hoofs  often. 

To  Toughen  Hoofs.— Wash  them  frequently  in  strong 
brine,  and  turn  brine  upon  the  bottoms  and  soak  a  few  minutes 
each  time. 

Scratches. — Cut  oflF  the  hair  close,  and  wash  the  legs  in 
strong  soap-suds  or  urine,  or  wash  with  warm  vinegar  sat- 
urated with  salt,  and  afterwards  dress  over  with  a  small 
quantity  of  hog's  lard. 

Cough. — Quit  feeding  musty  hay,  and  feed  roots  and  laxa- 
tive food.  Sprinkle  human  urine  on  his  fodder,  or  cut  up 
'edar  boughs  and  mix  with  his  grain,  or  boil  a  small  quantity 
of  flax-seed,  and  mix  it  in  a  mash  of  scalded  bran,  adding  a 
few  ounces   of   sugar,   molasses,   or   honey.     Administer  I'^ke- 


THE  HORSE  97 

warm.  If  there  should  be  any  appearance  of  heaves,  put  a 
spoonful  of  ground  ginger  once  per  day  in  his  provender,  and 
allow  him  to  drink  freely  of  lime  water. 

Split  or  Broken  Hoof. — Let  the  blacksmith  bore  two  holes 
on  each  side  of  the  crack  or  split ;  pass  long  nails  through  the 
holes  and  clinch  tight.  After  anointing  with  the  hoof-bound 
liquid,  it  will  soon  grow  together. 

Colic  Cure. — Bleed  freely  at  the  horse's  mouth;  then  take 
one  half  pound  raw  cotton,  wrap  it  around  a  coal  of  fire,  so  as 
to  exclude  the  air,  when  it  begins  to  smoke,  hold  it  under  his 
nose  till  he  becomes  easy. 

To  Cure  Distemper. — Take  one  and  a  quarter  gallons  of 
blood  from  the  neck  vein ;  then  administer  sassafras  oil  one  and 
a  half  ounces.      Cure  speedy  and  certain. 

Founder  Cured  in  Twenty-four  Hours. — Boil  or  steam 
stout  oat-straw  for  half  an  hour,  then  wrap  it  around  the 
horse's  leg  quite  hot,  cover  up  with  wet  woolen  rags  to  keep  in 
the  steam ;  in  six  hours  renew  the  application,  take  one  gallon 
of  blood  from  the  neck  vein,  and  give  one  quart  linseed  oil. 
He  may  be  worked  next  day. 

Cure  for  Staggers. — Give  a  mess  twice  a  week  composed 
of  bran,  1  gallon ;  sulphur,  1  tablespoonful ;  saltpetre,  1  spoon- 
ful;  boiling  sassafras  tea,  one  quart;  asafcetida,  11-8  ounces. 
Keep  the  horse  from  cold  water  for  a  half  day  afterwards. 

Ring-bone  and  Spavin  Cure. — Venice  turpentine  and  Span- 
ish flies,  of  each  2  ounces ;  cuphorbium  and  aqua-ammonia,  of 
each  1  ounce ;  red  precipitate,  one-half  ounce ;  corrosive  sub- 
limate, one-quarter  ounce ;  lard,  one  and  one-half  pounds. 
Pulverize  all,  and  put  into  the  lard;  simmer  slowly  over  coals, 
not  scorching  or  burning ;  and  pour  off,  free  of  sediment.  For 
ring-bones,  cut  off  the  hair,  and  rub  the  ointment  well  into  the 
lumps  once  in  forty-eight  hours.  For  spavins,  once  in  twenty- 
four  hours  for  three  mornings.  Wash  well  previous  to  each 
application  with  suds,  rubbing  over  the  place  with  a  smooth 
stick,  to  squeeze  out  a  thick,  yellow  matter.  This  has  removed 
very  large  ring-bones. 

Cure  for  Bone  Spavins — $300  Recipe. — Corrosive  subli- 
mate, quicksilver,  and  iodine,  of  each  1  ounce.  Rub  the  quick- 
silver and  iodine  together;  then  add  the  sublimate,  and  lastly 
the  lard,  rubbing  them  thoroughly.  Shave  off  the  hair  the  site 
of  the  bone  enlargement;  grease  all  around  it,  but  not  where 
the  hair  is  shaved  off,  this  prevents  the  action  of  the  medicine, 
except  on  the  spavin.  Then  rub  in  as  much  of  the  paste  as  will 
lie  on  a  three  cent  piece,  each  morning,  for  three  or  four  morn- 
ings. In  from  seven  to  eight  days,  the  whole  spavin  will  come 
out;  then  wash  the  wound  with  suds  for  an  hour  or  so,  to  re- 
move the  poisonous  effects  of  the  paste ;  afterwards  heal  up  the 


98  THE  HORSE 

sore  with  any  good  healing  salve,  or  Sloan's  Horse  Ointment 
as  per  recipe  above,  keeping  the  sore  covered  while  it  is 
healing  up. 

Another  Very  Valuable  Recipe  for  Ring-bone. — Pulver- 
ized catharides,  oils  of  spike,  origanum,  amber,  cedar,  Barba- 
does,  tar,  and  British  oil,  of  each  2  ounces ;  oil  of  wormwood,  1 
ounce ;  spirits  turpentine,  4  ounces ;  common  potash,  one-half 
ounce;  nitric  acid,  6  ounces;  sulphuric  acid,  4  ounces;  lard,  3 
pounds.  Melt  the  lard,  "nd  slowly  add  the  acids;  stir  well, 
and  add  the  other  articles,  stirring  until  cold,  clip  off  the  hair, 
and  apply  by  rubbmg  and  heating  in.  In  about  three  days, 
or  when  it  is  done  running,  wash  off  with  soap-suds,  and  apply 
again.  In  old  cases,  it  may  take  three  or  four  weeks ;  but,  in 
recent  cases,  two  or  three  applications  have  cured. 

Splint  and  Spavin  Liniment. — Oil  of  origanum,  6  ounces ; 
gum  camphor,  2  ounces;  mercurial  ointment,  2  ounces;  iodine 
ointment,  1  ounce;  melt  by  putting  all  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle,  and  setting  it  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water.  Apply  it  to  bone 
spavins  or  splints,  twice  daily,  for  four  or  five  days,  and  a  cure 
is  guaranteed. 

Poll  Evil  and  Fistula. — Common  potash  dissolved  in  one- 
half  pint  of  water,  1  pound;  add  one-half  ounce  belladonna 
extract,  and  one  ounce  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  a  little  water; 
work  all  into  a  paste  with  wheat  flour,  and  bottle  up  tight. 
Directions :  Wash  the  sores  well  with  Castile  soap  suds ;  then 
apply  tallow  all  around  them.  Next,  press  the  above  paste  to 
the  bottom  of  all  orifices;  repeat  every  two  days  till  the 
callous  fibrous  base  around  the  poll  evil  or  fistula  is  completely 
destroyed;  put  a  piece  of  oil-cloth  over  the  sores,  and  after- 
wards heal  up  with  Sloan's  Horse  Ointment. 

To  Tame  Horses. — Take  finely  grated  horse  castor,  oils  of 
rhodium  and  cumin ;  keep  them  in  separate  bottles  well  corked 
put  some  of  the  oil  of  cumin  on  your  hand,  and  approach  the 
horse  on  the  windy  side.  He  will  then  move  toward  you. 
Then  rub  some  of  the  cumin  on  his  nose,  give  him  a  little  of 
the  castor  on  anything  he  likes,  and  get  eight  or  ten  drops  oil 
of  rhodium  on  his  tongue.  You  can  then  get  him  to  do  any- 
thing you  like.  Be  kind  and  attentive  to  the  animal,  and  your 
control  is  certain. 

Best  Remedy  for  Heaves. — Balsam  of  fir  and  balsam  of  co- 
paiba 4  ounces,  each,  and  mix  with  calcined  magnesia  sufl5- 
ciently  thick  to  make  it  into  balls;  and  give  a  middling  sized 
ball  night  and  morning  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 


Square  Deal  Printers 

BOX   57 
MANTENO,    ILLINOIS 


